Soup is one of those things, easy to make but also easy to screw up. Obviously for anyone truly serious in becoming a Chef, along with stocks and sauces, soups is an essential element. And the beauty of soups is that the basic elements of a soup being made 100 litres at a time is the same as one being made at home.
Due to my overwhelming love for C, I started making soups and sauces. I had always been a sauce maker but had never really made sauces. Of course at Reservation I started making big batches of soups for weddings and other celebrations as well as for daily service.
Soup is something that seems really easy. You add you main feature to some water or cream and boil. However, there are, as I learned at Reservation lots of things that can go wrong with soups.
Now that I am at Without Reservation I took soups from Chef as I outlined in a previous post. Though I have witnessed a growth in the way that I am making them and what types of soups I am choosing to make. For instance, this week I have made a Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Puree, an Asian Inspired Black Bean and Ham Hock and today started a Cauliflower Veloute (one of my favorites). The roasted red pepper went over like gangbusters. The Black Bean was only half used yesterday so I bumped it up today with some orange juice, water and another ham hock. I will finish the Cauliflower Veloute when I get into work tomorrow morning.
I can almost hear you all asking; “But how do you make the actual soup?”
Well let’s answer that to demystify some of the steps in the process by using the Black Bean soup as the example.
First I started with 4 large onions which I diced and sweated down in a little oil with some garlic. This takes about five to seven minutes but be patient. The point of the sweat is to draw out the natural sugars in the onions. About four minutes into the sweat I add the carrots and celery and allow them to sweat as well. After about three minutes from that point I deglazed it with about a third to a half a bottle of white wine. The night before I had soaked some chilies in a little sweet rice wine vinegar and water. I allow the wine to reduce and then add the black beans and ham hocks stirring them in completely. Cover with water and let simmer. After about an hour and a half (and filling the water back up a little lets just say two more litres and about seven hundred and fifty milliliters of Orange Juice) I turn the heat off and let it sit for a couple of minutes. As a result of the flavours that I was after in this particular soup I juiced four limes and added the juice and a little of the pulp to the soup. I then removed the ham hocks and put them under running cold water to allow them to cool so I could handle them. While this is happening I used an immersion blender to combine all the flavours fully. Once the ham hocks were cool I then took the fat off and deposit it in the bottom of the soup terrine. I then take the meat of the ham hocks of the bone and shredded it coarsely and deposited it in the soup.
You see, there really isn’t much to it. I really enjoyed this soup because Toronto has been hit by an Artic blast that has the city beyond cold, especially when you factor in the wind chill. The heat was just enough to hit you on the back of your palate and to warm you up and it was really well balanced. Today I thought it was even better as the flavours had all come together even more. To bump it up today I added a bit more water, some more orange juice and another ham hock.
DELCICIOUS.
Abraham Maslow once said; “A first rate soup is better than a second rate painting” I couldn’t agree more.
Are you living your dream? Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
Showing posts with label Cauliflower Veloute. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cauliflower Veloute. Show all posts
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Where’s Brooklyn at? (File under Celebration of Love)
I was both excited and nervous to leave Reservation the last night. Excited because I was about to leave on a journey both figuratively and literally. Nervous for the same reasons. Goethe once said; “Whatever you think you can do or believe you can do, begin it. Action has magic, grace and power in it.” And so began my journey.
I could hardly sleep that Thursday night because I had so much going on. I had just left the place that gave me my culinary chops (or at least the beginning of them) and I was filled with all kinds of questions. Not to mention that I was about to see the love of my life in less than twenty four hours after not seeing her for a month and a half. Excited doesn’t even begin to cover it.
That night I tossed and turned. All the things that were on my mind were weighing on me and so I just tossed and turned. Fidgeted. Got up. Went back down. Turned the TV on and off. Clearly my mind was unsettled.
I woke up early and started packing everything that I needed. I checked for my ID, passport, tickets, etc. Grabbed all the things that C needed and then was off to the TTC to get to Union Station.
I had packed pretty light given that I was really only there for about sixty hours. But I made sure to bring my book of the moment which is a monumental text, Harold McGee. Brilliant book and very dense. Not necessarily difficult to read but certainly it is a lot to take in.
Arriving at Penn Station more than an hour and a half late I was tired. Worn down and ready to get out and see the great New York City. Being late and knowing that C had to work I sent her a text saying that I was running late. But as so often happens in my life I arrived in time to meet with her. I walked from Penn Station and met her at 27th and 6th.
We took the train to Chelsea where she is working and I dropped off my bags and hung out for a bit. But I was in New York City and I didn’t want to bother her or her employer. As such it was time for me to do what I always do when I am in New York. Go for a long walk. I ended up bouncing into a cigar store and buying myself a Romeo and Julieta Churchill and proceeded to walk from 4th Street all the way to 44th (just near the Empire State Building) Street. I then cut up two streets to Broadway and started my long walk back. Thank God I had my good friend Churchill to keep me company.
As I walked I was snapping pictures of all the things that were interesting to me and listening to the myriad of conversations that we ever present on my walk. The one thing that struck me was that no matter what language I was hearing the name Obama came up with a fervent joy that was obvious. It was a joy to hear and witness as America truly is in need of some change for the better. All around it seemed that everyone holds the expectation that he is the right man, at the right time in the right place.
Walking back along Broadway I stopped at a flower stand and bought my lovely some roses because while she is there she is not getting the same treatment that she has become accustomed to when she is here. Namely flowers and great food. I continued to walk with purpose and joy. As I got just a couple of blocks away from where she works (and having just put out my cigar) I ran into (hey the universe is screaming at me what can I say) a friend that I had not seen since high school. She was with a few of her friends and we quickly caught up as to what we both were doing, etc.
As we spoke we laughed as a few of us from school all have taken the culinary route. It ends up that she works for a big foodie magazine and she gave me her number telling me to give her a call when I want to make the move down to New York. Talk about awesome. I told her I was coming back in January. But I think I am going to actually go down in February. At any rate I will give her a call. I AM SO EXCITED.
Anyway, we exchanged our stories and then went on our mutual ways. As I got back to C I was so excited to be in New York, to run into someone I hadn’t seen in 14 years and that we were both so happy to run into each other.
The next morning I ended up waking up and going to the Union Square Farmers Market to buy ingredients for the dinner I was going to be making that night. It was so much fun to be there. To see New York, alive and vibrant, happy and shopping for organic groceries.
The selection was quite extraordinary but also exorbitantly expensive. But whatever, you only live once and C hadn’t had some me food in over two months. She deserved a treat and I was only so happy to make it for her. I spent a few hours on the island and then went back to meet her at her place.
That night I cooked dinner for eleven of us. The menu consisted of Saint Andres and Chive stuffed mushrooms. The next course was a cauliflower veloute with romanescu and Colby cheddar. Next course was a blackened chicken in a lemongrass broth. I ended it all with a fresh fruit and cognac bread pudding that was to die for. Everyone really enjoyed the food and it was nice to have so many of C’s friends around and sharing in our joy.
The next morning I woke up early and decided to go out on my way. I basically walked from C’s place on Stuyvesant all the way across the Brooklyn Bridge and up to 44th Street again and then back to Wall Street and then back to Brooklyn.
It was a whirlwind trip. Awesome though. A great way to frame the next adventure and possibly the opening page of the adventure that starts when I decide to go and conquer New York.
George Bernard Shaw once said; “The possibilities are numerous once we decide to act and not react.”
Are you acting? Reacting? Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
I could hardly sleep that Thursday night because I had so much going on. I had just left the place that gave me my culinary chops (or at least the beginning of them) and I was filled with all kinds of questions. Not to mention that I was about to see the love of my life in less than twenty four hours after not seeing her for a month and a half. Excited doesn’t even begin to cover it.
That night I tossed and turned. All the things that were on my mind were weighing on me and so I just tossed and turned. Fidgeted. Got up. Went back down. Turned the TV on and off. Clearly my mind was unsettled.
I woke up early and started packing everything that I needed. I checked for my ID, passport, tickets, etc. Grabbed all the things that C needed and then was off to the TTC to get to Union Station.
I had packed pretty light given that I was really only there for about sixty hours. But I made sure to bring my book of the moment which is a monumental text, Harold McGee. Brilliant book and very dense. Not necessarily difficult to read but certainly it is a lot to take in.
Arriving at Penn Station more than an hour and a half late I was tired. Worn down and ready to get out and see the great New York City. Being late and knowing that C had to work I sent her a text saying that I was running late. But as so often happens in my life I arrived in time to meet with her. I walked from Penn Station and met her at 27th and 6th.
We took the train to Chelsea where she is working and I dropped off my bags and hung out for a bit. But I was in New York City and I didn’t want to bother her or her employer. As such it was time for me to do what I always do when I am in New York. Go for a long walk. I ended up bouncing into a cigar store and buying myself a Romeo and Julieta Churchill and proceeded to walk from 4th Street all the way to 44th (just near the Empire State Building) Street. I then cut up two streets to Broadway and started my long walk back. Thank God I had my good friend Churchill to keep me company.
As I walked I was snapping pictures of all the things that were interesting to me and listening to the myriad of conversations that we ever present on my walk. The one thing that struck me was that no matter what language I was hearing the name Obama came up with a fervent joy that was obvious. It was a joy to hear and witness as America truly is in need of some change for the better. All around it seemed that everyone holds the expectation that he is the right man, at the right time in the right place.
Walking back along Broadway I stopped at a flower stand and bought my lovely some roses because while she is there she is not getting the same treatment that she has become accustomed to when she is here. Namely flowers and great food. I continued to walk with purpose and joy. As I got just a couple of blocks away from where she works (and having just put out my cigar) I ran into (hey the universe is screaming at me what can I say) a friend that I had not seen since high school. She was with a few of her friends and we quickly caught up as to what we both were doing, etc.
As we spoke we laughed as a few of us from school all have taken the culinary route. It ends up that she works for a big foodie magazine and she gave me her number telling me to give her a call when I want to make the move down to New York. Talk about awesome. I told her I was coming back in January. But I think I am going to actually go down in February. At any rate I will give her a call. I AM SO EXCITED.
Anyway, we exchanged our stories and then went on our mutual ways. As I got back to C I was so excited to be in New York, to run into someone I hadn’t seen in 14 years and that we were both so happy to run into each other.
The next morning I ended up waking up and going to the Union Square Farmers Market to buy ingredients for the dinner I was going to be making that night. It was so much fun to be there. To see New York, alive and vibrant, happy and shopping for organic groceries.
The selection was quite extraordinary but also exorbitantly expensive. But whatever, you only live once and C hadn’t had some me food in over two months. She deserved a treat and I was only so happy to make it for her. I spent a few hours on the island and then went back to meet her at her place.
That night I cooked dinner for eleven of us. The menu consisted of Saint Andres and Chive stuffed mushrooms. The next course was a cauliflower veloute with romanescu and Colby cheddar. Next course was a blackened chicken in a lemongrass broth. I ended it all with a fresh fruit and cognac bread pudding that was to die for. Everyone really enjoyed the food and it was nice to have so many of C’s friends around and sharing in our joy.
The next morning I woke up early and decided to go out on my way. I basically walked from C’s place on Stuyvesant all the way across the Brooklyn Bridge and up to 44th Street again and then back to Wall Street and then back to Brooklyn.
It was a whirlwind trip. Awesome though. A great way to frame the next adventure and possibly the opening page of the adventure that starts when I decide to go and conquer New York.
George Bernard Shaw once said; “The possibilities are numerous once we decide to act and not react.”
Are you acting? Reacting? Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
Thursday, October 2, 2008
No Soup for YOU! (file under so simple and yet complex)
Who doesn’t remember the fabulous episode with the Soup Nazi on Seinfeld. If you haven’t seen it or need a refresher go to; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ3AOmZ2fps . I think that most people think that soup is relatively easy and truthfully it is. Once you have the basic composition you can make soup out of just about anything.
I have to credit my talented, wonderfully intelligent and divinely beautiful fiancé for getting me into soup. I was never a fan. I thought that soup was well SOUP. Not much to it other than its hearty goodness. But man was I wrong and she was the first to teach me that. Both Executive Chef and now Director of Operations built upon that initial love affair for me and have taught me much with regard to soup.
However, now that I am in a professional kitchen I have been making soups more and more frequently. And when I say soup I mean I am making anything from twenty to eighty litres of it.
The basic process is the same. You start with a mirepoix which is dependant on the type of soup you are making. Most of those that I have been making have either carrot, celery, onion and leek or no carrot. Just this past week I have made ninety litres of Cauliflower and aged cheddar Veloute and Tomato Vodka bisque. A couple of weeks ago I made an especially velvety mushroom bisque and right now as I prepare to go to work I know that I have to make both a butternut squash and a mushroom bisque.
At first when I was making soups on such a large scale I was making them too watery. Finding the perfect balance was incredibly hard. But as I have made them more frequently I have become better at it.
Each day when the service staff is getting ready to start their service they each taste the soup so that they can sell it. Twice in the past few weeks I have been congratulated on making such a good soup. It feels good. But I know that there is so much more to learn. And I can only get better as time goes on.
There is no limit to what you can do with soup. It can be hearty or merely a broth. But it is one of the critical elements of what we do. Soups, stocks, sauces, etc.
So, now I go off to work. Into soup land. Into another day of trying to be better than the last. To improve constantly on this journey which is never ending. So should you ever feel the need to have a great soup. You know where to find me. And it is my humble honour to make one for you.
Moliere once wrote; “I live on good soup, not on fine words.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
I have to credit my talented, wonderfully intelligent and divinely beautiful fiancé for getting me into soup. I was never a fan. I thought that soup was well SOUP. Not much to it other than its hearty goodness. But man was I wrong and she was the first to teach me that. Both Executive Chef and now Director of Operations built upon that initial love affair for me and have taught me much with regard to soup.
However, now that I am in a professional kitchen I have been making soups more and more frequently. And when I say soup I mean I am making anything from twenty to eighty litres of it.
The basic process is the same. You start with a mirepoix which is dependant on the type of soup you are making. Most of those that I have been making have either carrot, celery, onion and leek or no carrot. Just this past week I have made ninety litres of Cauliflower and aged cheddar Veloute and Tomato Vodka bisque. A couple of weeks ago I made an especially velvety mushroom bisque and right now as I prepare to go to work I know that I have to make both a butternut squash and a mushroom bisque.
At first when I was making soups on such a large scale I was making them too watery. Finding the perfect balance was incredibly hard. But as I have made them more frequently I have become better at it.
Each day when the service staff is getting ready to start their service they each taste the soup so that they can sell it. Twice in the past few weeks I have been congratulated on making such a good soup. It feels good. But I know that there is so much more to learn. And I can only get better as time goes on.
There is no limit to what you can do with soup. It can be hearty or merely a broth. But it is one of the critical elements of what we do. Soups, stocks, sauces, etc.
So, now I go off to work. Into soup land. Into another day of trying to be better than the last. To improve constantly on this journey which is never ending. So should you ever feel the need to have a great soup. You know where to find me. And it is my humble honour to make one for you.
Moliere once wrote; “I live on good soup, not on fine words.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
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