Pliny once wrote of Apicius; " the most gluttonous gorger of all spendthrifts, established the view that the flamingo's tongue has a specially fine flavor." And I need to beg the question; who says he was wrong?
I imagine that my file under has you all a bit perplexed. Of course Nouvelle Cuisine came to us by way of Marin, Menon, Escoffier, Gault, Bocuse, Chapel, Troisgros Brothers, Guerard, Verge and Oliver as is observed by common consensus. However it would seem (though I do need further study) that much of what we term as nouvelle cuisine today is in fact the result of Apicius Roman Cookery Book which was written an astonishingly fifteen to sixteen hundred years ago.
The particular copy that I got my hands on (though I am sure by now Google has it on Google Books) is presented with the Latin version on the left side of the page and the English translation on the right.
I observed that some of the recipes seemed to be arcane (ah duh), silly or just plain unnecessary such as one which teaches how to turn red wine white. The first question that popped into my head is why would anyone assault a red wine with a recipe such as this?
Another recipe that struck me (perhaps because it reminded me of Garde Manger) was to turn bad honey into good honey. This is quite simply accomplished by heating two thirds of the bad honey with one third of the good honey. And according to the recipe “Voila” good honey. To me it is unclear whether this recipe is meant to be dishonest or as a means of eliciting further profit. Moreover, for me, it is hard to test the recipe as most honey today is prepared to avoid such spoilage.
He has numerous recipes for the preservation of meats, vegetables, fruits, etc. I am excited to try each and every one of them and to relay the results to you my loyal readers. He has numerous recipes for broths, soups and purees which I am curious to try. Specifically in the trying of these recipes I want to know about the texture resultant.
On page 149 of the copy I had is the recipe for Flamingo that Pliny is so bothered by. Interestingly to me was that there were recipes for snails and wombs. I’ve never had nor conceived of eating a womb (perhaps because of my consciousness) but it did make me wonder why there would be a recipe for it. Are people out there eating womb today? If so I would be curious to know how it is prepared and moreover if there is a ritualistic aspect to the use of the womb.
All in all I would suggest that anyone serious about food should at the very least peruse this book as it has some very interesting recipes. When I try them out I will let you know the result.
Plutarch once wrote; “The same intelligence is required to marshal an army in battle and to order a good dinner. The first must be as formidable as possible, the second as pleasant as possible, to the participants.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
Showing posts with label Nouvelle Cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nouvelle Cuisine. Show all posts
Monday, February 23, 2009
Friday, May 30, 2008
Bouchon (file under my laundry is clean but Thomas Keller’s is French)
You know I have so little time to write these days that I tend to forget some of the things that I want to write about. I have long admired Thomas Keller (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller ) and his vision for food. I have written about him before and the things that he has achieved. While I was in Mexico I took the time to go through his book Bouchon which is based on dishes that he serves at Bouchon (http://www.bouchonbistro.com/ ) with a fine toothcomb.
Sitting on the beach, sipping on Grey Goose, or whatever struck my fancy at that moment I was struck by the absolute beauty of the food that he was producing. Bouchon is dedicated to Bistro, true Bistro food and his love shows through the simplicity and flavours. I think that TRUE CHEF GENIUS is reflected in the ability to take the everyday and make it so well that it becomes extraordinary and he clearly has that ability.
Of course Keller got his start at the venerable http://www.frenchlaundry.com/ . When I say his start I am referring to his major jump into the Chef/Patron position after a hard split with his former business partners.
I think by way of explanation I should let you all know that when I am looking at all of these books and various Chefs that I read and study I am searching for inspiration. While my technical ability may not be at the utmost level YET it will be. As I discovered through all of my studying the true meaning of Nouvelle Cuisine is to take the classic and make it lighter and new. When looking at these books and these Chefs there may be a method that they use, an ingredient, even a colour that sparks my creative juices and I think about what I would do differently.
When I say differently I am also NOT referring to doing it differently for the sake of doing it differently. But instead I am trying to understand WHY it is done that way and what I would do differently to improve the dish. When I think back to a blog post I wrote about playing with my food it is precisely this attitude and mind set that I am referring to.
Obviously I aspire to be the best. I aspire to reach the top and NOT so I can be some food network Chef or celebrity. I WANT MY FOOD to be the celebrity. I WANT MY ATMOSPHERE to titillate, to excite and to leave my patrons with the feeling that they have had a great experience. One that they will remember all their lives (or at least until the next time they come to my restaurant).
I make notes dutifully and have filled at least two massive notebooks so far. I use that knowledge to keep me going forward. To find that happy place where I can create, I can design, I can play and feel the utmost joy which then produces dishes which reflect that mind state and it is a PERSONAL revelation that gets shared.
This week I was speaking with the Pastry Chef, as we often do, and she said to me that the appetizer has to amaze, the entrée has to meet expectation and the dessert has to leave them with a great impression. I believe that this is exceptionally true and reflects at least in part what I have always viewed as my life long goal, to create, to implement and to fix. While reading Marco Pierre White he has a lengthy dialogue about coffee, the way he looked at it, Michelin looked at it and indeed how a corporate behemoth looked at it. I think that my way is a lot closer to the way he looked and looks at it.
So where am I going with all of this you ask yourself. Well first off, Frank Keller is an original. His design of plates is impeccable, his restaurants are considered to be amongst the best in the United States and while I am reading his books I find myself lost AND found in a personal utopia. A utopia which is dependent on nothing but a few ingredients and a vivid imagination.
When I’m done reading through this one I will reveal to each of you what I have gleaned from it but I did want to make sure that I mentioned it before I got there. Partially because I am inspired today and partially because I actually find myself with the time to write.
So again, tomorrow morning I will be back at work, partially rested, fully excited and ready to face the challenge of the grill again. BUT DON’T WORRY THIS WEEKEND I WILL FIND SOME TIME TO EAT!
I’m reminded by something Steve Jobs once said; “Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of other's opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary.”
I am. Are you?
Dream inspired and big.
A la prochaine
SDM
Sitting on the beach, sipping on Grey Goose, or whatever struck my fancy at that moment I was struck by the absolute beauty of the food that he was producing. Bouchon is dedicated to Bistro, true Bistro food and his love shows through the simplicity and flavours. I think that TRUE CHEF GENIUS is reflected in the ability to take the everyday and make it so well that it becomes extraordinary and he clearly has that ability.
Of course Keller got his start at the venerable http://www.frenchlaundry.com/ . When I say his start I am referring to his major jump into the Chef/Patron position after a hard split with his former business partners.
I think by way of explanation I should let you all know that when I am looking at all of these books and various Chefs that I read and study I am searching for inspiration. While my technical ability may not be at the utmost level YET it will be. As I discovered through all of my studying the true meaning of Nouvelle Cuisine is to take the classic and make it lighter and new. When looking at these books and these Chefs there may be a method that they use, an ingredient, even a colour that sparks my creative juices and I think about what I would do differently.
When I say differently I am also NOT referring to doing it differently for the sake of doing it differently. But instead I am trying to understand WHY it is done that way and what I would do differently to improve the dish. When I think back to a blog post I wrote about playing with my food it is precisely this attitude and mind set that I am referring to.
Obviously I aspire to be the best. I aspire to reach the top and NOT so I can be some food network Chef or celebrity. I WANT MY FOOD to be the celebrity. I WANT MY ATMOSPHERE to titillate, to excite and to leave my patrons with the feeling that they have had a great experience. One that they will remember all their lives (or at least until the next time they come to my restaurant).
I make notes dutifully and have filled at least two massive notebooks so far. I use that knowledge to keep me going forward. To find that happy place where I can create, I can design, I can play and feel the utmost joy which then produces dishes which reflect that mind state and it is a PERSONAL revelation that gets shared.
This week I was speaking with the Pastry Chef, as we often do, and she said to me that the appetizer has to amaze, the entrée has to meet expectation and the dessert has to leave them with a great impression. I believe that this is exceptionally true and reflects at least in part what I have always viewed as my life long goal, to create, to implement and to fix. While reading Marco Pierre White he has a lengthy dialogue about coffee, the way he looked at it, Michelin looked at it and indeed how a corporate behemoth looked at it. I think that my way is a lot closer to the way he looked and looks at it.
So where am I going with all of this you ask yourself. Well first off, Frank Keller is an original. His design of plates is impeccable, his restaurants are considered to be amongst the best in the United States and while I am reading his books I find myself lost AND found in a personal utopia. A utopia which is dependent on nothing but a few ingredients and a vivid imagination.
When I’m done reading through this one I will reveal to each of you what I have gleaned from it but I did want to make sure that I mentioned it before I got there. Partially because I am inspired today and partially because I actually find myself with the time to write.
So again, tomorrow morning I will be back at work, partially rested, fully excited and ready to face the challenge of the grill again. BUT DON’T WORRY THIS WEEKEND I WILL FIND SOME TIME TO EAT!
I’m reminded by something Steve Jobs once said; “Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of other's opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary.”
I am. Are you?
Dream inspired and big.
A la prochaine
SDM
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Day off… But not really!
On Sunday I had asked Exec Chef what time I was supposed to be at work today. He said 10 am (which for me means earlier). So naturally I showed up and started working. Stock, Remi, and Demi. Receiving, labeling and putting away. I know that it must seem crazy but I am happier than I have ever been in my entire life.
But before we get to today lets look at yesterday. Obviously I caught up on my blogging. There were three days that I had missed. Then I started reading the latest book that Exec Chef had loaned me; Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook. For those of you who don’t know Chef Portale is an amazing chef (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Portale ). He was fortunate enough to be trained by some of the originators of Nouvelle Cuisine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nouvelle_cuisine ), which is incidentally at least partially an influence on Exec Chef and the menu at Reservation.
From the very first page I was transfixed. The line “Good food is an adventure” caught me as a very real representation of what it is that I strive to. I want to give people an adventure and food is going to be (in some ways already has) the vehicle I use to drive peoples adventures.
Portale has a way of representing what he does so that you can see clearly this is a man driven my integrity. Integrity of spirit and he strives to make the food he serves filled with as much integrity as possible. He also said; “One of the most important realizations at which an aspiring cook can arrive is how much he or she doesn’t know.” If ever truer words were spoken that reflect the life that I am now living these are them. I have always sought to know as much as possible and now in the endeavour I am as well. But with the CAVEAT that there is much I don’t know and even more that every day I will be able to learn something new.
Some of his influences have included but are not limited to Michel Troisgros (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Maison_Troisgros ). He had the good fortune to train with the Troisgros brothers. Earlier I’ve mentioned Escoffier, the Roux brothers, Girardet. Each of these had an impact on Portale and each have also had an influence on me.
I have started to question what it is that I want to do with food. Where it is I want to go. How is the best way to do it. These are all questions that will not be even close to being answered for several years. I keep them in my notebook and when the time is right Exec Chef and I will sit down over a fine glass of wine and start talking about it. It may take several sessions but I know he will answer any question I have willingly and in fact with a massive smile. I know that Head Chef will also be willing to do the same thing and it will be interesting to contrast the answers so that I can do the absolute very best. But, like I said, we are years away from that coming to fruition. I have lots I need to learn and only TIME and EXPERIENCE can do that best.
So what was today you ask? Good question. Just so that you get a further feel these are the point form notes from today;
Clean Pots (no dishwasher that time of day and I needed the pots)
Stock, Remi and Demi
Cut Romaine
Croutons
Pancetta (slice and then roast)
Mixed Greens
Bruschetta
Smashed Potatoes
Roast Bones (came in late)
Make slurry
Mire Pois
Stock on
Cut Fingerlings, Fries and Gauffrettes
Fry all of the above potato dishes
Aioli
Roast Spaghetti Squash ( then cool and scrap it)
Cut and Roast Cauliflower florets,
Make Herbed Panko
Roast Corn then cut off cob
Break down Lobster
Cut butternut squash into rounds.
These are only the things I made notes on. There were about fifty other things. But I think at this point you all get the idea.
I left work at 8:15 and was pretty tired. I have to admit that this week is going to be interesting. It is going to be the first week where I work six days straight and it will be a very good gauge for what the rest of my life is going to look like.
I did get to speak with Exec Chef for quite a few minutes today as he was preparing a dish for a competition. One of the requirements of his contract with Garland (www.garlandcanada.ca ). I won’t say what he was preparing as it is for a competition but after the competition happens I will. I got to ask him all kinds of questions today about Portale and the Troisgros Brothers. As I’ve said before Exec Chef is a brilliant man. You can see it on his face and feel it from his spirit. Wise beyond his years and I am now the benefactor of that knowledge.
He speaks with an enthusiasm that is usually reserved for these massive personalities (or at least manufactured for them). Whereas with him he is the real deal. The genuine article. It feels awesome to be around that. I did let him know that I was recording these questions and eventually we’d have to chat about it. Without missing a beat he said of course. I anxiously await the day that I feel ready to have that conversation. As I’ve said years from now.
At any rate. It feels good to be home early. To finish my blog. I know that I still owe an explanation of the various pans, etc. in a kitchen. I asked Exec Chef today if I could take some pictures of the kitchen, etc. So I feel like I will take those pictures and then explain what you are seeing from them. That and it makes it easier for me to get a handle on what needs to be at what station, etc. Did I mention I’m loving it and that my life has taken a full turn around? AMAZING!
My note to myself today at the top of the page was; This is your dream, this is your life” and now I’m adding to it “and you’re living them both with integrity, love and laughter.” A fantastic way to live if you ask me.
Balzac is on my mind today and this quote came to mind as I was working today. I knew immediately that it would be my send off today; “It would be curious to know what leads a man to become a stationer rather than a baker, when he is no longer compelled, as among the Egyptians, to succeed to his father's craft.” Think about it and what you want from life. Remember always that you can not spell life without IF! No start asking and then taking steps in the right direction. Whatever that is.
Be inspired tomorrow and have a wonderful tonight.
A la prochaine
SDM
But before we get to today lets look at yesterday. Obviously I caught up on my blogging. There were three days that I had missed. Then I started reading the latest book that Exec Chef had loaned me; Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook. For those of you who don’t know Chef Portale is an amazing chef (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Portale ). He was fortunate enough to be trained by some of the originators of Nouvelle Cuisine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nouvelle_cuisine ), which is incidentally at least partially an influence on Exec Chef and the menu at Reservation.
From the very first page I was transfixed. The line “Good food is an adventure” caught me as a very real representation of what it is that I strive to. I want to give people an adventure and food is going to be (in some ways already has) the vehicle I use to drive peoples adventures.
Portale has a way of representing what he does so that you can see clearly this is a man driven my integrity. Integrity of spirit and he strives to make the food he serves filled with as much integrity as possible. He also said; “One of the most important realizations at which an aspiring cook can arrive is how much he or she doesn’t know.” If ever truer words were spoken that reflect the life that I am now living these are them. I have always sought to know as much as possible and now in the endeavour I am as well. But with the CAVEAT that there is much I don’t know and even more that every day I will be able to learn something new.
Some of his influences have included but are not limited to Michel Troisgros (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Maison_Troisgros ). He had the good fortune to train with the Troisgros brothers. Earlier I’ve mentioned Escoffier, the Roux brothers, Girardet. Each of these had an impact on Portale and each have also had an influence on me.
I have started to question what it is that I want to do with food. Where it is I want to go. How is the best way to do it. These are all questions that will not be even close to being answered for several years. I keep them in my notebook and when the time is right Exec Chef and I will sit down over a fine glass of wine and start talking about it. It may take several sessions but I know he will answer any question I have willingly and in fact with a massive smile. I know that Head Chef will also be willing to do the same thing and it will be interesting to contrast the answers so that I can do the absolute very best. But, like I said, we are years away from that coming to fruition. I have lots I need to learn and only TIME and EXPERIENCE can do that best.
So what was today you ask? Good question. Just so that you get a further feel these are the point form notes from today;
Clean Pots (no dishwasher that time of day and I needed the pots)
Stock, Remi and Demi
Cut Romaine
Croutons
Pancetta (slice and then roast)
Mixed Greens
Bruschetta
Smashed Potatoes
Roast Bones (came in late)
Make slurry
Mire Pois
Stock on
Cut Fingerlings, Fries and Gauffrettes
Fry all of the above potato dishes
Aioli
Roast Spaghetti Squash ( then cool and scrap it)
Cut and Roast Cauliflower florets,
Make Herbed Panko
Roast Corn then cut off cob
Break down Lobster
Cut butternut squash into rounds.
These are only the things I made notes on. There were about fifty other things. But I think at this point you all get the idea.
I left work at 8:15 and was pretty tired. I have to admit that this week is going to be interesting. It is going to be the first week where I work six days straight and it will be a very good gauge for what the rest of my life is going to look like.
I did get to speak with Exec Chef for quite a few minutes today as he was preparing a dish for a competition. One of the requirements of his contract with Garland (www.garlandcanada.ca ). I won’t say what he was preparing as it is for a competition but after the competition happens I will. I got to ask him all kinds of questions today about Portale and the Troisgros Brothers. As I’ve said before Exec Chef is a brilliant man. You can see it on his face and feel it from his spirit. Wise beyond his years and I am now the benefactor of that knowledge.
He speaks with an enthusiasm that is usually reserved for these massive personalities (or at least manufactured for them). Whereas with him he is the real deal. The genuine article. It feels awesome to be around that. I did let him know that I was recording these questions and eventually we’d have to chat about it. Without missing a beat he said of course. I anxiously await the day that I feel ready to have that conversation. As I’ve said years from now.
At any rate. It feels good to be home early. To finish my blog. I know that I still owe an explanation of the various pans, etc. in a kitchen. I asked Exec Chef today if I could take some pictures of the kitchen, etc. So I feel like I will take those pictures and then explain what you are seeing from them. That and it makes it easier for me to get a handle on what needs to be at what station, etc. Did I mention I’m loving it and that my life has taken a full turn around? AMAZING!
My note to myself today at the top of the page was; This is your dream, this is your life” and now I’m adding to it “and you’re living them both with integrity, love and laughter.” A fantastic way to live if you ask me.
Balzac is on my mind today and this quote came to mind as I was working today. I knew immediately that it would be my send off today; “It would be curious to know what leads a man to become a stationer rather than a baker, when he is no longer compelled, as among the Egyptians, to succeed to his father's craft.” Think about it and what you want from life. Remember always that you can not spell life without IF! No start asking and then taking steps in the right direction. Whatever that is.
Be inspired tomorrow and have a wonderful tonight.
A la prochaine
SDM
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