Great Chefs (and what they mean to me)

Over the course of this past year. 10 months really. I have spent as much time as humanly possible reading. I have tried to absorb as much as humanly possible and have many notebooks and this blog as evidence of that fact.

I have read Escoffier, Girardet, the Roux Brothers, Bourdain, Marco Pierre White, Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, Michael Ruhlman and so many more. I have read MFK Fisher with delight and marveled at the ingenuity required to consider how to properly cook a wolf. But what has all this reading meant for my development?

Each time I pick up a book I read it with a sense of urgency equal to that of a student who knows that his teacher is about to die. With that urgency I have riffled through the various, wits, wisdoms and insights of the greats to both aid my journey and to illuminate my path. From each I have taken something significant and different.

But ultimately the question comes down to this; what makes a great chef great? I think that everyone in his or her chosen field asks this question. What makes a pitcher so capable of throwing? An artist so capable of capturing a moment in time? A writer, so on and so forth.

So I ask then; what does make a great chef great? I have asked this question before in the blog. How does Gordon Ramsay become Gordon Ramsay? Or Marco Pierre White? I think that in this age of instant gratification everyone buys into the belief that these people can achieve success, well, instantly. As such there is a over stylized and glamourized concept that people have with regard to them. But not me.

I have worked in the restaurant industry now for over ten months. Ten long, grueling, demanding and glorious months. I have learned more being in the restaurant than any book (or culinary school) could ever impart. And yet I am left with the question; what separates the wheat from the chaff? And ultimately I think what makes people in any given field great is; Drive, Passion, Talent, Desire and Dedication.

What makes Gordon Ramsay Gordon Ramsay is that he has worked tirelessly, everyday to BE Gordon Ramsay. The same is true of all the greats. I hope one day to be looked at not by the world at large, but by my customers, as a great chef. As a harbinger of culinary greatness that culminates in a wonderful experience, gastronomical and otherwise, that they can take with them for the rest of their lives.

The more I read, the more I come to understand, that the field that I have chosen is one that eats people alive. I come to see that I did not choose the field at all but rather that it chose me. And while today I am but an infant in the industry learning how to crawl and soon to walk, I am aware that you can’t really pick to be a great chef, YOU HAVE TO BECOME ONE. On a path that is clear but winding. That path is what has made all these Chefs great.

George Bernard Shaw once wrote; “Forget about likes and dislikes. They are of no consequence. Just do what must be done. This may not be happiness but it is greatness.” Think about that for a minute.

Are you dreaming big and inspired? WHY NOT?

A la prochaine

SDM

Day off… But not really!

On Sunday I had asked Exec Chef what time I was supposed to be at work today. He said 10 am (which for me means earlier). So naturally I showed up and started working. Stock, Remi, and Demi. Receiving, labeling and putting away. I know that it must seem crazy but I am happier than I have ever been in my entire life.

But before we get to today lets look at yesterday. Obviously I caught up on my blogging. There were three days that I had missed. Then I started reading the latest book that Exec Chef had loaned me; Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook. For those of you who don’t know Chef Portale is an amazing chef (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Portale ). He was fortunate enough to be trained by some of the originators of Nouvelle Cuisine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nouvelle_cuisine ), which is incidentally at least partially an influence on Exec Chef and the menu at Reservation.

From the very first page I was transfixed. The line “Good food is an adventure” caught me as a very real representation of what it is that I strive to. I want to give people an adventure and food is going to be (in some ways already has) the vehicle I use to drive peoples adventures.

Portale has a way of representing what he does so that you can see clearly this is a man driven my integrity. Integrity of spirit and he strives to make the food he serves filled with as much integrity as possible. He also said; “One of the most important realizations at which an aspiring cook can arrive is how much he or she doesn’t know.” If ever truer words were spoken that reflect the life that I am now living these are them. I have always sought to know as much as possible and now in the endeavour I am as well. But with the CAVEAT that there is much I don’t know and even more that every day I will be able to learn something new.

Some of his influences have included but are not limited to Michel Troisgros (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Maison_Troisgros ). He had the good fortune to train with the Troisgros brothers. Earlier I’ve mentioned Escoffier, the Roux brothers, Girardet. Each of these had an impact on Portale and each have also had an influence on me.

I have started to question what it is that I want to do with food. Where it is I want to go. How is the best way to do it. These are all questions that will not be even close to being answered for several years. I keep them in my notebook and when the time is right Exec Chef and I will sit down over a fine glass of wine and start talking about it. It may take several sessions but I know he will answer any question I have willingly and in fact with a massive smile. I know that Head Chef will also be willing to do the same thing and it will be interesting to contrast the answers so that I can do the absolute very best. But, like I said, we are years away from that coming to fruition. I have lots I need to learn and only TIME and EXPERIENCE can do that best.

So what was today you ask? Good question. Just so that you get a further feel these are the point form notes from today;

Clean Pots (no dishwasher that time of day and I needed the pots)
Stock, Remi and Demi
Cut Romaine
Croutons
Pancetta (slice and then roast)
Mixed Greens
Bruschetta
Smashed Potatoes
Roast Bones (came in late)
Make slurry
Mire Pois
Stock on
Cut Fingerlings, Fries and Gauffrettes
Fry all of the above potato dishes
Aioli
Roast Spaghetti Squash ( then cool and scrap it)
Cut and Roast Cauliflower florets,
Make Herbed Panko
Roast Corn then cut off cob
Break down Lobster
Cut butternut squash into rounds.

These are only the things I made notes on. There were about fifty other things. But I think at this point you all get the idea.

I left work at 8:15 and was pretty tired. I have to admit that this week is going to be interesting. It is going to be the first week where I work six days straight and it will be a very good gauge for what the rest of my life is going to look like.

I did get to speak with Exec Chef for quite a few minutes today as he was preparing a dish for a competition. One of the requirements of his contract with Garland (www.garlandcanada.ca ). I won’t say what he was preparing as it is for a competition but after the competition happens I will. I got to ask him all kinds of questions today about Portale and the Troisgros Brothers. As I’ve said before Exec Chef is a brilliant man. You can see it on his face and feel it from his spirit. Wise beyond his years and I am now the benefactor of that knowledge.

He speaks with an enthusiasm that is usually reserved for these massive personalities (or at least manufactured for them). Whereas with him he is the real deal. The genuine article. It feels awesome to be around that. I did let him know that I was recording these questions and eventually we’d have to chat about it. Without missing a beat he said of course. I anxiously await the day that I feel ready to have that conversation. As I’ve said years from now.

At any rate. It feels good to be home early. To finish my blog. I know that I still owe an explanation of the various pans, etc. in a kitchen. I asked Exec Chef today if I could take some pictures of the kitchen, etc. So I feel like I will take those pictures and then explain what you are seeing from them. That and it makes it easier for me to get a handle on what needs to be at what station, etc. Did I mention I’m loving it and that my life has taken a full turn around? AMAZING!

My note to myself today at the top of the page was; This is your dream, this is your life” and now I’m adding to it “and you’re living them both with integrity, love and laughter.” A fantastic way to live if you ask me.

Balzac is on my mind today and this quote came to mind as I was working today. I knew immediately that it would be my send off today; “It would be curious to know what leads a man to become a stationer rather than a baker, when he is no longer compelled, as among the Egyptians, to succeed to his father's craft.” Think about it and what you want from life. Remember always that you can not spell life without IF! No start asking and then taking steps in the right direction. Whatever that is.

Be inspired tomorrow and have a wonderful tonight.

A la prochaine

SDM

Pics from my first week at Reservation

The first pic is what I wore to the Friday interview with Exec Chef and Head Chef. The next are cuts from my first week on the job. Yummy. Ahh the life of a cook and the hands to how for it. The last is the Girardet book that Exec Chef loaned me.

Blood, Gore & Guts

Today was an interesting day! I’m sure you all are beginning to see a theme. ALL MY DAYS ARE INTERESTING! And so too should yours be!

Like yesterday which was a much needed day off. I spent the entire day writing and studying Girardet. All I can say to you is if you don’t know who this man is YOU MUST! He is the true master chef and I learned much in the approximate 15 hours that I spent analyzing every square inch of the book that Exec Chef had loaned me. This new direction makes me feel as if I am ten years old again and I see the rain coming so I wait until the puddles are just right and then I go running full tilt and jump into them. I feel reborn, alive and vibrant and everyday is filled not only with possibility but measured result. It is VERY CATHARTIC! Hmmm cathartic. To my day (kind of like the Batcave except… MY DAY).

I had to get up early to take Delia (C’s car) in to the shop because she, like most North Easterners developed the flu. Don’t worry she’ll be fine and now seems to be. As I was on the streetcar with Girardet in my hand and a coffee in the other I began to make mental notes in similarities between what Exec Chef does and what Girardet did. Once again it reassured me that I had chosen the right environment and that I am beyond fortunate to be studying under AND working with both Exec Chef and Head Chef.

Today the restaurant was closed for a private function. 170 people treated to the most scrumptious food in the world. Too bad they ate like rabbits. Too bad for them that is. I was like a John in a whorehouse. It truly is the beauty of genetics and a metabolism like mine otherwise I’m sure I would already be getting fat.

So naturally… Stock… Remi… Jus but then peel, chop and cut. Which brings us to the subject at hand.

I’m certain that at least one or two of you has thought about the fact that chefs must cut themselves (not that I would dare call myself a chef at the moment but the point still stands). OF COURSE THEY DO and so to do APPRENTICE COOKS.

On the very first day that I was in the kitchen, Head Chef was explaining to me the way that things were done. The proper way. HIS WAY! These things included the way that a knife faces when it is sitting on the board. How many towels you have. Clean your station, etc. One such note was to make sure that you had proper knife handling skills.

So there I am having peeled a hotel pan of carrots and I was proceeding quite nicely. I was in fact shocked at how well I was doing. I was impressed with myself. (Fool!) Casually I am picking up speed and then my hand slips and the knife starts to fall. So what does dumb ass do; one thing that Head Chef told him he MUST NEVER DO – Try to catch a knife.

For most of you, the knives that you use are sharpish but not nearly as sharp as a Mac SA-70 (http://www.macknife.com/superior.html ). I didn’t even realize the amount of blood that was coming out of my hand until someone pointed it out. I was bleeding quite profusely; I mean literally, Hawkeye could have filled three patients full of my plasma. Blood and gore… At any rate this brings me to the point… What happens when a cut happens in the kitchen?

First the person, in this case me, immediately leaves where I’m working. You run your hand under cold water and then apply pressure and hold your hand over your head for a minute or two. Then, because I am the FNG the number 3 in the restaurant says stick out your hand. Of course being the FNG I listen, he then quickly pulls out a bottle of crazy antiseptic which causes me to shriek like a girl whose just seen a mouse running across her dormitory floor. AHHHHHHHHHH! WHAT THE F^%$%#&^#! And every one around laughs. Truth be told it is quite funny. After a minute or two the deep seething pain of the antiseptic subsides and I continue to do my first aid. Another spray or two of antiseptic (it is much easier to take when you know its coming but still insanely painful). Then wipe it down. Put a band-aid over it and then cover with a finger condom. I promise I will soon start adding pics to the blog so that you can see. Probably on Monday when I have some time.

After being finished with the first aid I return to my station. Remove the cutting board I was using and place it in the dish pit so that it can be cleaned and sterilized. Then I throw out any and all product that could (not even was) COULD have been contaminated by my blood. I then take the knife that I so cleverly was trying to do my best impression of a man with only three fingers and a thumb with to the sink and clean it thoroughly. After that it is like nothing happened and with your finger raincoat on you go right back to work.

As such, to any and all of you who had ever worried about that sort of thing, that is the standard operating procedure in a high-end restaurant. And it is strictly adhered to.

I spent a few minutes over a cigarette speaking with Exec Chef about some of the terms I couldn’t find in my Larouse Gastronomique. It is funny watching as I ask my questions as I can clearly see a man that appreciates my passion, enthusiasm and dedication.

As I was leaving tonight I said to Exec Chef that once I had a handle on everything I wouldn’t have to ask questions about certain things. A bright smile comes over his face and a hearty chuckle; “ Don’t worry, we know the process.” I then had to laugh. I now am in the habit of giving everyone a props fist when I get in and a props fist or a handshake when I leave. There is something to be said about that action when it is genuine that serves to bond people unlike the emptiness of many “business” handshakes. There is a stark reality, a gritty realness to the kitchen and I hope that you all are beginning to see how wonderful a professional kitchen can be.

Lord Byron said in Don Juan; “All human history attests
That happiness for man,—the hungry sinner!—
Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner.”

And to that I say, yes much depends on dinner AND the people that make it. Make sure you all take the time to thank the people who cook in your lives. There is more truth in that meal than on most corners anywhere on earth.

I hope you all have an inspired day AND be grateful for what you have because there is always, ALWAYS somebody who has less than you and you should take the time to appreciate what you’ve got NOT what you want!

Stay tuned…

SDM