Showing posts with label Roux Brothers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Roux Brothers. Show all posts

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Brunch Prep and Surprise Tasting Menu (file under exciting)

I hope this finds you all well. I myself am up at the crack of dawn because there is so much that I need to get done.

As always on Saturday I started doing prep for brunch. L was on vacation that meant that we all had to pick up the slack. I developed a further appreciation of L and how hard he works and the things he gets accomplished in a day. He really is a machin (misspelled on purpose). I didn’t really have to do anything for the line; my primary focus was on the brunch prep.

Brunch prep involves each of the following;

Crack 2 case eggs
Dice red onion, peppers, mushrooms, Kessler and green onion
Prep the sausage, bacon and peameal
Cut Top butt into useable sections (in this case 10)
Make Greek Salad, Tuscan Bean, Roasted Vegetables, Meat Platters (8), Cheese Platters (8), Fruit Platters (a lot), Chicken Salad, Potato Salad, Caprese Salad (8 platters), Waffle Batter, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, strawberry compote, babaganoush, whipped butter, whipped cream cheese

These are just some of the things that I got done today. I had only been scheduled until five but because there was so much to get done I said that I was more than willing and able to stay and that I was willing to come in earlier tomorrow in order to make sure that we got everything done.

Chef J was working near me and I saw that something was up and asked what was going on. As Head Chef was not there Chef J went out to deal with something and then came back. I asked what was up and he said that we had to do a tasting menu on the fly. He started thinking about it and I felt that I had an opportunity to assist both with the idea and construction. For about seven or eight minutes I blurted out things that came to mind that I would do if I had to build a menu quick. It was fun bouncing ideas off of him and he was bouncing ideas of me too. After this short time Chef J developed the plan and we started working it.

We made a four course appetizer tasting and a main course. We started with an amuse Bouche of Wild Mushroom Gnocchi with a cream sauce, spinach and crispy pancetta on top. Second tasting was a stuffed quail. Third course was a Salmon Tartare wrapped in a crepe. Fourth was Curried apricot and duck. It was exciting and exhilarating to develop something and execute it so quickly. I loved it. I really felt as if I was in my element. Moreover Chef J really appreciated it as well and said so several times. He actually said that my blurting things out helped him to create what he did and that he was super appreciative of my assistance.

I also realized again today that when I think about what I am doing too much rather than just do it it becomes like a chore, it is extremely difficult and I find that I fight my mind and my body. BUT, when I just do what I know how to do and don’t over complicate it with unnecessary thoughts I can execute quite well. I know that time and experience are my best teachers but I now also know that I need to quiet my mind quite a bit more when I am in the kitchen.

By quiet what I am referring to is that nagging little voice that is inside all of our heads. It is filled with malice, mean spiritedness, doubt, fear, etc. I’m sure you all know that little voice and the way that it causes you to respond either physically or through a loss of mental acuity. I am making a concerted effort this week to silence that voice and to allow my body to do what it knows how to do.

I also got a new knife today. This caused an excitement that used to be reserved for the death of a pen or the purchase of a new one. My heart actually skipped a beat as I put a new tool in my hand. A tool that means far more to me as I realize my life’s purpose and my own personal if not selfish realization of my dreams. I purchased another Mac knife (www.macknife.com ). (I really like the style, construction, weighting, ease of use and sharpness). The one I just bought can be found here; http://www.macknife.com/images/knives/pmsk65.gif .

As well I also wanted to make a side note about my last post. I often consider the other side of food. In Canada, and in fact in the industrialized world we take food for granted. It is a secondary concern or even lower. The reason for this is that we live in a society of gross (read a lot) abundance. Think of the industrialized world as if it were a child of wealth. There are two kinds of children who grow up in wealth. Those that have a full appreciation and understanding of it and then there are the wayward ones that become spoiled, complacent and unaware of the lengths that are gone to for wealth to amass. With food in the industrialized world we are the exact same as the second child. I mention all this because my mother lives on the ground in Africa. She is surrounded by poverty and lack and I felt that I needed to mention that we are spoiled here and have little or no understanding of how the food we eat arrives at our plate and have even less respect for it (in most cases). I wasn’t even going to make this side note but I felt it was important to try to get everyone to see that food is much more than what we put on our plate or is put on the plate in front of us. Yes of course it is sustenance but if you look at the world today you will see that food is used as a weapon, as a tool and there is an ugly side to it.

But this realization is something I have known my whole life. It is also something that I plan on working to correct. We have no attachment to our food here. Most kids could not tell you that a carrot grows underground or that a mushroom grows in the dark. Most kids today have not seen a farm, whether animal or vegetable, and as such there is little or no appreciation for the food we eat. Do you think that if we took a child from Africa, India or China and brought them to a farm that they would have a greater appreciation then would a child from the industrialized world?

At any rate Monday is my day off and I plan on finishing The Nigel Didcock book. Moreover, Executive Chef gave me another great book; Michel Roux’s “Sauces.” And let me just tell you how excited I am to tear through that while sipping a great whiskey.

Thus I leave you with the following thought from Albert Schweitzer; “Ethics cannot be based upon our obligations toward [people], but they are complete and natural only when we feel this Reverence for Life and the desire to have compassion for and to help all creatures insofar as it is in our power. I think that this ethic will become more and more recognized because of its great naturalness and because it is the foundation of a true humanism toward which we must strive if our culture is to become truly ethical.”

I hope you are all truly inspired today, tomorrow and next week. Dream big and HAPPY EASTER!

A la prochaine

SDM

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Michel Bras & My Day Off! (File under much needed sleep)

It takes a unique individual to want to be a chef. There is a great physical and mental toll on you as you are consistently working long hours and will work for long stretches before having a day off. My current stretch had been six days of fourteen hours a day. Each day filled with non-stop action and incredible amounts of learning.

So yesterday I woke up and decided to treat myself to a massage after having slept for fourteen hours. I usually sleep around six. I usually get a massage about once a year. The one I had yesterday felt great though today I am in a little bit of pain and by a little you should read that my lower back feels as if a voodoo doll has my name on it somewhere and there are pins being placed in my lower left side. It is excruciating but I know that the benefit of the massage far outweighs the current pain. Some of which relates to an accident I had as a kid and the way that the temperature changes so quickly. It causes my back to expand and contract (as yours does too though you are probably unaware of it). The masseuse asked where my trouble spots were and I told her, hands, feet and lower back. After touching them for only a moment she knew that I spent most of my time on my feet. As she got to my hands she apologized that she was unable to do more for them and noticed that they were especially tight. (File that under extremely obvious… to me anyway).

After that I was feeling quite amazing. I came home and worked on my blog post from yesterday. The massage was having an impact on me and I had to go lay down for a while. It is nice to be able to listen to my bodies’ needs and desires. It is something that I have not done most of my life and have just kept pushing myself but I am now realizing the importance of downtime for my body AND my mind.

Short nap concluded I started to read through Michel Bras’ “Essential Cuisine.” Michel Bras is INSANELY talented. I only got into the book a little and will write more when I get a chance. Needless to say he is opening my eyes to a level of food that I aspire too (as are Alfred Portale, Heston Blumenthal, The Troisgros and Roux Brothers, not too mention Executive and Head Chefs among many others).

I wanted to take the time to write this post this morning before going to work as I may not have time later.

Another thing I wanted to include in yesterdays post but slipped my mind was how aware you need to be to be a chef. The other night after a long day at work I asked Head Chef if I could have a drink. He asked how many I had had that day and I responded none. He asked me to speak again and I said that after working a long day a drink is nice and that I’m not going to stop at a bar on the way home. He said yes. As I was changing into my civies I realized that one of Exec Chef’s friends had given me a sip of a beautiful full bodied red. I came out to Head Chef and mentioned that I had had a sip and that I was an honest person and it had slipped my mind. I had had the sip perhaps half an hour before and I remarked that it was amazing that he could still smell it. He then gave me an example of awareness that baked my noodle (Remember there is no spoon). He said not only am I aware of that sip, I can also smell a horrible perfume about thirty feet that way. Beef smells are still lingering and I can smell sea food. All of this caused me to see that I need to awaken my senses even more and I need to be a student of them.

I’ve come to realize through the love and support of my friends what my life is supposed to be. This realization or eureka moment if you will has really freed me from my past. It has opened the door to my present and set me on a course for the future. At the end of each of my posts I ask you what your dream is. What is your dream? Are you willing to work for it? Can you focus on it? Try! Look deep within yourself, then have conversations with those around you, you will see that the universe has a wonderful way of helping you once you have clarity. So today seek some clarity and dream inspired. Dream big.

T.E. Lawrence once said; “All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”

Try to open your eyes today and realize that possibility is only one step away. Can you take that step?

Be inspired today!

A la prochaine

SDM

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Day off… But not really!

On Sunday I had asked Exec Chef what time I was supposed to be at work today. He said 10 am (which for me means earlier). So naturally I showed up and started working. Stock, Remi, and Demi. Receiving, labeling and putting away. I know that it must seem crazy but I am happier than I have ever been in my entire life.

But before we get to today lets look at yesterday. Obviously I caught up on my blogging. There were three days that I had missed. Then I started reading the latest book that Exec Chef had loaned me; Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook. For those of you who don’t know Chef Portale is an amazing chef (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Portale ). He was fortunate enough to be trained by some of the originators of Nouvelle Cuisine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nouvelle_cuisine ), which is incidentally at least partially an influence on Exec Chef and the menu at Reservation.

From the very first page I was transfixed. The line “Good food is an adventure” caught me as a very real representation of what it is that I strive to. I want to give people an adventure and food is going to be (in some ways already has) the vehicle I use to drive peoples adventures.

Portale has a way of representing what he does so that you can see clearly this is a man driven my integrity. Integrity of spirit and he strives to make the food he serves filled with as much integrity as possible. He also said; “One of the most important realizations at which an aspiring cook can arrive is how much he or she doesn’t know.” If ever truer words were spoken that reflect the life that I am now living these are them. I have always sought to know as much as possible and now in the endeavour I am as well. But with the CAVEAT that there is much I don’t know and even more that every day I will be able to learn something new.

Some of his influences have included but are not limited to Michel Troisgros (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Maison_Troisgros ). He had the good fortune to train with the Troisgros brothers. Earlier I’ve mentioned Escoffier, the Roux brothers, Girardet. Each of these had an impact on Portale and each have also had an influence on me.

I have started to question what it is that I want to do with food. Where it is I want to go. How is the best way to do it. These are all questions that will not be even close to being answered for several years. I keep them in my notebook and when the time is right Exec Chef and I will sit down over a fine glass of wine and start talking about it. It may take several sessions but I know he will answer any question I have willingly and in fact with a massive smile. I know that Head Chef will also be willing to do the same thing and it will be interesting to contrast the answers so that I can do the absolute very best. But, like I said, we are years away from that coming to fruition. I have lots I need to learn and only TIME and EXPERIENCE can do that best.

So what was today you ask? Good question. Just so that you get a further feel these are the point form notes from today;

Clean Pots (no dishwasher that time of day and I needed the pots)
Stock, Remi and Demi
Cut Romaine
Croutons
Pancetta (slice and then roast)
Mixed Greens
Bruschetta
Smashed Potatoes
Roast Bones (came in late)
Make slurry
Mire Pois
Stock on
Cut Fingerlings, Fries and Gauffrettes
Fry all of the above potato dishes
Aioli
Roast Spaghetti Squash ( then cool and scrap it)
Cut and Roast Cauliflower florets,
Make Herbed Panko
Roast Corn then cut off cob
Break down Lobster
Cut butternut squash into rounds.

These are only the things I made notes on. There were about fifty other things. But I think at this point you all get the idea.

I left work at 8:15 and was pretty tired. I have to admit that this week is going to be interesting. It is going to be the first week where I work six days straight and it will be a very good gauge for what the rest of my life is going to look like.

I did get to speak with Exec Chef for quite a few minutes today as he was preparing a dish for a competition. One of the requirements of his contract with Garland (www.garlandcanada.ca ). I won’t say what he was preparing as it is for a competition but after the competition happens I will. I got to ask him all kinds of questions today about Portale and the Troisgros Brothers. As I’ve said before Exec Chef is a brilliant man. You can see it on his face and feel it from his spirit. Wise beyond his years and I am now the benefactor of that knowledge.

He speaks with an enthusiasm that is usually reserved for these massive personalities (or at least manufactured for them). Whereas with him he is the real deal. The genuine article. It feels awesome to be around that. I did let him know that I was recording these questions and eventually we’d have to chat about it. Without missing a beat he said of course. I anxiously await the day that I feel ready to have that conversation. As I’ve said years from now.

At any rate. It feels good to be home early. To finish my blog. I know that I still owe an explanation of the various pans, etc. in a kitchen. I asked Exec Chef today if I could take some pictures of the kitchen, etc. So I feel like I will take those pictures and then explain what you are seeing from them. That and it makes it easier for me to get a handle on what needs to be at what station, etc. Did I mention I’m loving it and that my life has taken a full turn around? AMAZING!

My note to myself today at the top of the page was; This is your dream, this is your life” and now I’m adding to it “and you’re living them both with integrity, love and laughter.” A fantastic way to live if you ask me.

Balzac is on my mind today and this quote came to mind as I was working today. I knew immediately that it would be my send off today; “It would be curious to know what leads a man to become a stationer rather than a baker, when he is no longer compelled, as among the Egyptians, to succeed to his father's craft.” Think about it and what you want from life. Remember always that you can not spell life without IF! No start asking and then taking steps in the right direction. Whatever that is.

Be inspired tomorrow and have a wonderful tonight.

A la prochaine

SDM

Monday, February 4, 2008

Terms Learned (January 28 – February 4)

Aiguillette;

French name for long (skinny) fillets taken from the side of the breast of poultry (usually duck) and other game birds.

Quenelle;

Spiced meat dumpling (or fish bound with eggs and fat). Molded into egg or sausage shape and then poached. Most common is veal and is a specialty of Lyon. Usually an entrée served au gratin or with sauce or both. If a small quenelle it can be used as a garnish. Can also be added to salpicons and ragouts, croustades or even vol-au-vent. The name is of German derivation.

Vin Santo;

Dessert Wine or ‘Holy Wine’ from Tuscany and usually made of Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. Although some common varietals like Pinot Gris, Blanc and Chardonnay are possible. It is a labour intensive wine to make as the proper aging of the grapes (hanging from rafters) is at least three years. Colouration varies from Amber to Rose.

Fondant;

Syrup cooked to “softball” then worked until thick and opaque. It is then kneaded until smooth and white.

Beatilles;

Old French term for ingredient that are small (example brunoise, Minute Foie Gras or Sweetbreads)

Boulanger;

In 1765 he became the first restaurateur of Paris. As he did not have the right credentials he was only allowed to serve drinks and broths. Bu using his cunning and the law in his first year he served sheep’s feet in a white sauce and overcame the ‘caterers union’ credentials. It literally translates to baker.

A La Boulangere;

Dishes baked in the oven; Lamb or fish served with potatoes, onions, possibly butter. Prior to the advent of the household oven it was common to use communal ovens hence the term.

Papillote;

Decoration (think lace doily) to garnish the tips of the bones of lamb, chicken or veal chop. (Example; En Papillote is to wrap in parchment paper or tin foil and then cook) It is usually prepared with onions and herbs. The wrapping puffs up and is served rapidly before the casing collapses. Can also be candy. Probably derived from the French for Butterfly (Papillion).

Matelote;

Aromatic fish stew made with wine. Usually freshwater fish (eel) but could be Trout or Cod for example. Standard fair in Languedoc, Loire and Rhone regions of France. All are garnished with onions, mushrooms and bacon.

Bourride;

Provencal soup (Fish). Broth is strained then bound with Aioli. Most commonly made with monkfish but can be substituted.

A La Meuniere;

Method used to cook all kinds of fish in which it is lightly floured, from which it gets its name (Miller Wife) then fried in butter. Lots of ingredients can be prepared this way.

Cocotte;

Two handed fitted lid round or oval pan. It is used to slow cook such as with braising. Originated in the 1800’s and was typically cast iron (now there are a number or different ways these are made) Any good heat conductor can be used today.

Sauterne;

White wine from Bordeaux. Most famous is Chateau d’Yquem. Should be served at the end of meal with fruit or dessert – Could also go with blue cheese.

Panache;

Two drinks equally mixed. Usually lemonade (think the one from Sal Pellegrino) with Beer. In cooking it means two or more ingredients with different shapes, flavour or colour.

Rouelle;

Thick slice of round veal from leg. Roasted or braised. Think of shank with Osso Bucco.

Mange – Tout;

A snow or sugar pea. French for “Eat all.”

Hermitage;

Red and white wines coming from the slopes above Tain-Hermitage on the left bank of the Rhone. First rate wines.

Courgette (zucchini);

Usually eaten young, great edible skin. Range in size from flower intact baby to much larger and in a variety of shapes.

Carre;

High fat (45% or more) soft pasteurized cheese coming from Lorraine and Champagne. Can also be Normandy Cheese in the same family as Bondard.

Cassolette;

Porcelain, short handled, small container used to serve h’ors d’oeuvre, cold pudding or hot entrees. Can also be a dish of all kinds of salpicons or ragouts bound with white or brown sauce. Can also be sweet.

Duxelles;

Shallot, Onion & Mushrooms sautéed in butter predominantly used as a garnish or stuffing.

Ceps;

Boletus mushroom that resembles a tree trunk – the Italians would call them Porcini. There are more than a couple dozen edible varieties.

Bordeaux (Penny – Bun in England) and Pine Cep are highly valued by the gastronomic community. Always better when young

Ballotine;

Hot or cold dish (Poultry, Game Birds or Fish) in Aspic. It is rolled and stuffed then tied in cheesecloth.

Acidulate;

Turn a dish or liquid slightly acid, piquant or tart by adding vinegar, lemon or unripe fruit juice. Can also mean adding a little lemon to sour cream or fresh.

William Pear;

Good for cooking, as it is juicy, fragrant and sweet,

Sainte – Emilion;

On the right side of the Gironde River. Gorgeous town known for its red wines. Stringent classifications standards and is completed every 10 years. Most famous are Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Mainly made from Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Great aging and well concentrated full-bodied wine.

Civet;

Game stew (Rabbit, Wild Boar, Venison) with red wine thickened with blood, onions and bacon. Name comes from Cive (scallion). Some fish and seafood dishes also called Civet. In the provincial areas can be made with giblets of game birds or squirrel.

Coulson, Francis;

Armed with his mothers’ recipes he started serving proper English Tea at the Sharrow Bay Country House Hotel in 1949. There is not much info about him on the net so I will have to do so more digging.

Roux, Albert and Michel;

French born restaurateurs working in Britain. La Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/) is their three Michelin star restaurant. They are widely given regard for reinventing restaurant service in Britain and most UK chefs consider them the most influential chefs in the country. Michel’s son Michel Jr. is also a two-starred Michelin chef who currently runs La Gavroche.

Smith, George Perry;

Long before the Roux brothers had come to England George Perry - Smith (he added the hyphen to his name as an adult) had been revolutionizing the way that people looked at food. His most famous restaurant was called The Hole in the Wall and was in Bath, England. A true thinker he combined classical with interpretation and the world rejoiced. Sadly he is no longer with us.

As you all can see I am learning the most wonderful things from two great teachers. But it is not limited to just Exec Chef and Head Chef. In fact their entire brigade is also taking the time to teach me things on a daily basis and it is gratefully appreciated. I am also learning about life through Reservation and though the hours are long and sometimes difficult I would not be happy anywhere other than where I am.

Albert Schweitzer once said; “I don't know what your destiny will be, but one thing I do know: the only ones among you who will be really happy are those who have sought and found how to serve.” Man am I HAPPY! Hope you all are happy to.

Have an inspired tomorrow and live, love and laugh for you never know.

All the best.

SDM