Showing posts with label Stage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stage. Show all posts

Thursday, August 14, 2008

The Nature of Departure (file under all part of kitchen culture)

So yesterday I found out that one of the cooks is leaving. He has been with us for about a year and I suppose though I am not sure he feels that he has learned all that he can learn or conversely that the opportunity was such that he can’t turn it down. R.B. is moving onto a kitchen which is substantially smaller than ours. It will be him, another cook and the Chef. He is set to depart next Wednesday.

My reason for bringing this up is that early in ones kitchen career it is common for one to stay jut long enough and then move on. However, when I look at the kitchen that I am currently in I am fully certain that there is much more to learn than is possible in a year. EVEN FOR ME! I mean I am an apt student, duteous and highly intelligent. Even if Executive Chef and Head Chef spent every waking moment with me for a year I am quite certain that I would not have gleaned all that I could from their teaching. Moreover I AM CERTAIN (not a slight) that R.B. HAS NOT!

It does however give me pause to think about what is most important at this stage in my development. After all when I joined the kitchen, THEIR kitchen, I came in as a blank slate. Sure I had some knowledge about basics, but even the most rudimentary knife skills were not present in me. I do not make a lot of money. In fact I make less money than I have made in my adult life. But that is the trade off, I want to ascertain a certain level of respect for food, a basic foundation from which to build and as much knowledge as is humanly possible to aid me in my own personal goals which I have discussed here before. Executive Chef and Head Chef gave me the opportunity to become more, in THEIR kitchen, and I jumped at it. And I am still jumping at it.

I guess I bring all this up because I have seen it time and again in all the reading that I have done this year. A cook will stay in any given place for a year or two and then move on. Usually with the assistance of the Chef that they worked under. In R.B.’s case however he just saw an opportunity and jumped at it. To me, and I genuinely believe this, I think he should have discussed it with both Executive and head Chefs before making the move. When R.B. discussed it, again, after the fact, Head Chef had suggested that he should have first done a stage there. A stage in order to ensure that he would like it there. That he fit in. When R.B. told me about this last night I felt that Head Chef was giving him a point of view that represented his desire to ensure that those who come from his flock and eventually leave it, are happy and satisfied with the station that they are going to. I think, though it may have been lost on R.B., that Head Chef was not only being a stand above Chef but also a man who cares for the development of others.

So, I wish R.B. continued success in his life going forward. I know that we will stay in touch, have drinks and laughs and share war stories. As I will with everyone when they or I leave. But I also wanted to state outright that I, myself, am nowhere near leaving. I HAVE MUCH MORE TO LEARN! EVERYDAY, for the rest of my life.

Dave Mustaine ( I know me quoting Dave Mustaine) once said; “Moving on, is a simple thing, what it leaves behind is hard.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Executive Chef

I arrived today bright eyed and bushy tailed at 8:45 am. When I walked in there was no one there and there were only two notes directing me what to do. As such when orders came in, I checked the orders and signed the invoices. Before doing that I started roasting the bones for the stock, as that is the first thing that I am supposed to do each day. I proceeded to pull the other stocks out of “the grocery store” as well as the remi and started to combine the two in order to make the jus.

Order after order came in and I had to make sure that I checked and double-checked each order. Vegetables. Proteins and more. All of it came through the door in the fist hour or so that I was there. Then I started to prepare the Mise for the line. Cutting tomatoes, potatoes, nicoise olives, romaine lettuce, etc.

Have you ever peeled a baby carrot? Making sure to only take off enough that it still maintains its natural shape? Of course it sounds easy but it is not. That is until you peel a few hundred of them, then you experientially. It then becomes obvious to you what you need to do and how you need to do it.

I was going to quit smoking today and had gone about sixteen hours before I got screamed at. Don’t worry it wasn’t anything I did. This particular persons dog had died and being the FNG (fucking new guy) it was safe for him to haul off on me. I did take it in stride but I needed a cigarette afterward. Don’t worry I only had a couple and am still dedicated to quitting.

On a few occasions I got to ask Exec Chef a series of questions today. I asked about Stages (going out to learn more), how to build a menu, gastriques, etc. I also asked if he could recommend some restaurants in NYC as my baby is there and there is someone that will take her out. He concluded the same as I; “First stop Daniels!” I agree!

One note about stages. The Saucier told me in a lengthy conversation today that stages officially end somewhere around thirty. This put me in a bit of a blue funk but then after speaking to Exec Chef he told me that yes that was true officially but that a year from now he would be happy to pick up the phone for me and open the door. He also told me that I had to start saving, set up an account so that I could cover the stage myself although he would be able to arrange room and board. I already know where I want to do my first two stages. I didn’t tell him as I felt that it was both inappropriate and unnecessary. He reassured me that when the time came he would be there for me.

That of course made me feel even better. It reassured me that I had chosen the right kitchen (though I knew I already did) and the more than perfect teacher. It is a mutual investment we are making in each other. And I plan to pay it back in spades and a little bit of sweat labour.

I also asked if he would loan me a book which would give me some insight into what it is that he does at Reservation. He was only too happy to oblige and gave me the only copy of Girardet in the country. He also again reassured me that I was doing fantastic and that I will do very well in the industry as long as I keep my good temper, ability to learn and do it quick. It was very nice to have this assurance.

He then released me early (though it was 8 pm and I clocked out a 5) as he did not feel it was right for me to do menial tasks as on my time I should be learning things. I told him that I did not look at it as menial but instead as part of the process. I finished what I had to and then left so I could come home and study with Girardet and Larousse Gastronomique and of course write to you.

That said. I have learned in my first week so much. And I have become comfortable in my own skin. For those of you waiting for that to happen. IT FINALLY HAS! And I have turned not only a new page, but developed a whole new book. Thank you for your support and you know who you are.

It is written in the Proverbs in the Old Testament; “Better is a dinner of herbs where love is, than a stalled ox and hatred therewith.” And I couldn’t agree more.

Please have an inspired day, live, love and laugh as life is far to short for petty differences. Try to put one behind you today.

SDM

Monday, January 28, 2008

This Weeks Terms Learned

Reservation is an incredible place to learn. I am grateful to Exec Chef an Head Chef that they have allowed a newbie like me into their kitchen.

These are some of the terms that I learned this week;

Béchamel;

Name derived from the Marquis de Bechameil. It is a white sauce that is created by mixing roux with seasoned milk.

It is one of the five mother sauces

Brunoise;

A minute dice.

Espagnole;

Sauce made from Onions, Garlic, Tomatoes and Sweet Peppers.

It is one of the five mother sauces

Salpicon;

Diced ingredients (fine dice) bound with sauce. It comes from Spanish sal (salt) and picar (cut). It can be sweet or savoury.

Hollandaise;

Hot sauce made from emulsified egg yolks and clarified butter. It is the foundation for numerous other sauces.

Veloute Sauce;

Sauce made from white veal, fish or chicken stock thickened with roux. It is the foundation for numerous other sauces.

Choron;

A revolutionary chef in the 19th century from Caen who became chef de cuisine at Voisin.

He is famous in part for a Christmas Eve Menu in 1870 which included animals from the Paris Zoo including; Kangaroo, Wolf, Elephant and Antelope.

Choron also invented a sauce which is an emulsified hot sauce used with eggs, fish and steak.

Voisin;

Paris’ best restaurant for the mid 19th century to 1930. It was favoured by among other people Zola and the Prince of Wales.

Tian;

A Provencal Earthenware dish used in the oven. Multitude of shapes but usually square or rectangular with raised edges.

Gastrique;

Vinegar and sugar reduced to almost nothing. It is usually used with dishes using fruit (such as duck with cranberries).

Parmentier, Antoine Augustin;

Born 1737; Died 1813.

One of the greatest proponents of the potato; legend was that he had ‘invented’ the potato. Not quite but nonetheless a major advocate of its many uses. It was widely cultivated for 200 years before he was even born though not widely in France. (I think only two provinces had potatoes in them before Parmentier. But he changed all that!

He became an advocate after being held as a prisoner of war during the 7 Years’ War. He went onto advocate the use of the potato to stave off famine. In France, due to Parmentier it became favoured first by the King (who signaled his approval of it by wearing a potato flower on his jacket), then the Aristocracy (who proceeded to plant it on their own estates) and then only after a dinner held in honour of Ben Franklin at Les Invalides did the lay people accept it. Numerous dishes bear his name. He also did work outside of the potato with such things are the artichoke and maize.

Les Invalides;

A Parisian Military Complex filled mainly with museums and monuments but also a veteran’s hospital.

Stage;

An Apprenticeship in another restaurant usually in a city different from your own and more often in a foreign country.

These my friends are only some of the terms I learned. But these are the biggies.

I was going to post a picture today of my two hands. They have been cut, calloused, nicked and torn. Both Exec Chef and Head Chef have told me not to do anything with them, as it is imperative that my hands get tougher. I know have a callous growing on my callous on my left hand and a massive slice on my right. I have about four little nicks and cuts on both hands and got a bad burn on my left hand yesterday.

All in all a great first week.

Lucretius once wrote; “Quod ali cibus est aliis fuat acre venenum” which means; “What is food to one may be fierce poison to others.”

It is my fervent wish that you all have an inspired day!