Showing posts with label Potatoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Potatoes. Show all posts

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Lament for a Potato (file under Spud Killer)

Only a Mick,
Such as I,
Would hold court,
To lament the fallen spud,
Fallen by my own hand,
Only to reveal,
The potato phoenix,
Reborn into something new and beautiful,
Tasty and bountiful,
In this year passed,
I have been the judge, jury and executioner,
Of too many to count,
And their death,
Most certainly not for not,
As I have transformed their rugged beauty,
Their palette of flavour to reveal,
With delight,
Mash, medallion and fry,
I have taken them to a Zen like state,
From which joy abounds,
For those that receive it.

Only a Mick,
Such as I,
Could possibly lament,
For the potatoes that I have killed,
Only to rebirth them into something more fantastic,
Something more appealing,
Something revealing,
That from one comes another,
And from another comes pleasure divine,
Only a Mick such as I,
Would redefine Ambrosia,
To now become,
The potato and its many uses,
And in its death,
Finding beauty,
I still lament,
As I accept,
My fate and theirs,
To something more.

Only a Mick such as I,
Could take something,
Which once starved an entire population,
Strangling it and forcing the perilous journey across the Atlantic,
To new and wonderful worlds,
And like the potato I now lament,
Onto ever greater things,
The manifest destiny,
Of mash or fry,
Shepherds pie,
And ever more.

Fear not potato,
You have not lived in vain,
For though I lament,
I too celebrate,
Your simple beauty and truth,
And all the joy that you can bring,
As I transform you,
And in so doing,
Become transformed myself.


An old Irish Proverb states; "Only two things in this world are too serious to be jested on, potatoes and matrimony."

SDM

Thursday, July 24, 2008

The long road (file under… the LONG road)

Well my loyal readers here we are. At the crossroads of another week. I must apologize for not having posted earlier in the week but I spent most of my off time doing some research for the restaurant and Executive Chef. But without delay here is last weekends wrap up…

Wet with a side of pissy. Moderately dry with a high chance of precipitation. Did I mention wet? At any rate I prepared for a massive slaughtering this past weekend. I was ready to walk the gangplank and the gauntlet all rolled into one. However the rain seemed to have a different plan for me and as you can tell I am more than thrilled that was the case.

Don’t get me wrong. When it wasn’t raining I was exceptionally busy. I did break my record on Saturday in terms of meals served and felt as if I didn’t have time to myself at all. Which of course is not true. I did find time to have a cigarette or two.

The funniest thing that happened on Saturday involved me going out of my way to b e kind to all our patrons. It was coming down like a torrential downpour and the tent that the bar is covered by was quickly lagging with the weight of the water. Naturally, being helpful old me I grabbed a pole and proceeded to drain the sagging tents. Well, when I came to the other end from where I work there was a large crowd that I asked to push back. Unbeknownst to me there was a couple which was hidden by the extended Stella Artois umbrella, a plant and a heater. I proceeded to push a little bit of the water and it came down hard and as I heard a yelp I immediately knew that I had gotten someone wet. Immediately I apologized and was greeted by; “What kind of an idiot are you?” Keeping my best face I apologized and explained that she and her husband (who was now shrinking absolutely aghast at his significant others’ reaction) were hidden from my view. She got even louder now to the point that the hundred or so patrons that were under the tent felt me boiling over. “No really, what kind of idiot are you?” I walked away from the woman and continued my duties watching as her husband had shrunk to half the size of a Smurf! The crowd was ready for action… Let’s get READY TO RUUUUMMMMBBBLLLLLLLLE! She was getting viscerally nasty now and so in my nicest voice but loud enough so others could hear I said; “Listen Mam, I apologized for my unforeseeable transgression and have been greeted by your vitriol. I’m not sure you realize how obtuse you are being…” One of the patrons under the tent spoke loudly to the woman letting her know that she should let it go as everyone saw what I was doing and nobody saw either her or her husband. It was an honest mistake.

I went to the manager and bar manager and asked if there was an extra shirt so that I could minimize the damage from this woman. I obtained one and explained the full story to the manager, the bar manager and Head Chef. I made quite sure that they were clear on the fact I had said “OBTUSE” and not “OBESE” as you could tell from her reaction she heard “obese” though I am quite certain that her husband heard obtuse and quickly carted her away.

Sunday was great. I had come in early to help L get brunch set up before starting to prep for my day on the grill. I had actually set everything up for brunch and was working the omelette station when Head Chef pulled me off the station and asked me to go the sister restaurant. I was quite certain the plug was being pulled on the rest of the day. Sure enough. The Director of Operations was there and explained that we would be tearing down. Keep in mind that it was raining hippos and rhinoceros and seemed to be getting worse.

In my chef whites I went outside and started tearing down tents with a couple of other people. We tore down about thirty percent of the main area when we got a call to hold. I knew what this meant. Not only was I soaked (despite the beautiful Faster Linen Service bag which is all the rage in Paris) but now to add insult to injury we would have to reset the things that we had just taken down. For me I also knew this meant that I was going to have to open up my bbq.

So after resetting everything, sure enough, I had less than half an hour to get my station set and start serving. Bear in mind that this usually takes hours.

Naturally it rained most of the day. I did make some sales and was generally in good spirits. At one point I said to Head Chef that we had made enough to justify me being out there to which he responded; “Don’t say that, there is nothing that could justify this today.” Point taken I laughed and nodded my head; “Oui Chef!”

The best part of my day was that I had the best meal of the year and I plan to regal you with the details here.

Why is it that rain makes the days seem that much longer. Sure, it is true that twelve hours is still twelve hours, but for some reason being soaked like a wet rat makes twelve hours feel like twelve years. At any rate, I finished cleaning my station and went over to the main square to have a beer or two. C is working with me now at one of our sister restaurants and the Chefs and I get along famously there. I asked if it would be okay for me to have dinner there that night and they said it would be no problem at all.

After a couple of beers I came over to the sister restaurant and planted myself at the bar. I started with six succulent oysters that reminded me of the ocean more than I had remembered in my lifetime. In their sacrifice (though not chosen) I felt myself lifted to a higher level. Brought from my feeling of a wet rat to one of utter decadence and beauty. As I sucked back on the tender flesh I found myself day dreaming of the ocean from which they were plucked and hoped that I would be back there some day soon. I felt guilty for their suffering but rejuvenated for their great gift to my soul.

The kitchen asked me what I wanted for dinner to which (if you ever have the chance you should to) I responded dealers’ choice. I asked the bar for a fine glass of red wine and was rewarded by a complex California Shiraz that took the bite out of my bones and warmed not only my body but also the deepest core of my soul. Abuzz with the joy those first sips brought me I anticipated my dinner. And in it came.
A simple plate of meat and potatoes with the most delicate presentation and flavour. Each bit rewarded me by a virtual explosion of absolute delight. The meat was succulent and cooked to a perfect rare. Each bit giving way to a deeper understanding of how good food can be when prepared with attention and love. The potatoes were so superbly cooked that I found myself interlacing each bite of meat with a slice of potato trying to capture as much of the royal worthy demi as I could. This is the best description that I can give to you my readers and maybe just MAYBE one day you will be lucky enough to have me prepare a meal this good for you. I lingered over each and every bite of that meal and if I hadn’t have been in a restaurant I would have licked the plate. To put it in context it was SO good I had to go and hug the people responsible for it and they were grateful for my joy and appreciation.

Melody Beattie once said; “Gratitude unlocks the fullness of life. It turns what we have into enough, and more. It turns denial into acceptance, chaos to order, and confusion to clarity. It can turn a meal into a feast, a house into a home, a stranger into a friend. Gratitude makes sense of our past, brings peace for today, and creates a vision for tomorrow.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Great Journey Underway (and do your job)

We were quite busy today. We had to prep for a special event for about 300 people and do a limited service through the sister restaurant. We were also prepping for brunch and another event on Sunday night.

My prep today included;

Stock and Remi
Put away receiving (Meat, Fish and Produce)
Reorganize walk in
Make candied nuts, fruit compote
Cut bread platters
Slice meat platters and plate
Cut smoked pork for eggs benedict
Cut scallions on a bias
Make crustinis
Cut brioche for mini grilled cheese
Fry off crab cakes and shrimp lollipops
Cut 65 pounds of potatoes for fries
Cut rice rounds, bread and fry off

My days are long. Filled with work. Always go, go, go! But I would have it no other way. Reservation is right around the corner from a brewery so after work (it was a lonnnnnnnnng day) A and I went over with J and the new line guy L for a drink.

The camaraderie in a kitchen is apparent both inside and out. Inside the kitchen the work as I’ve said is continual but there are lots of moments of laughter and ribbing. The same is true outside the kitchen. After J and L had left, A and I stayed for a few more drinks and talked about his stage and the kitchen and restaurant industry in general. He is going to work for 3 months at a one star Michelin restaurant in Oxford, England. He told me that it is going to be quite the experience and that he expects to learn lots.

He also made a bet with me that I wouldn’t be there when he gets back. It was part serious and part ribbing. As we spoke it became quite clear that there are lots of people that try to come into a kitchen and for a whole host of reasons just can’t cut (no pun intended) it. To survive you need to be self-deprecating, self-assured, and skilled, have the ability to work well under pressure and so much more. I think that everyone there has a hard time figuring me out. Though as A and I spoke it became clear to him (I think) what I was doing and why I was there.

I’m going to miss A. He takes time each day to ride me a little. To push me. To make me stronger, faster and better. Several times when he has seen on my face that I was flustered or something was up he will come up and slap me on the back with a little laugh and ask; “Everything okay?” or “Are you good?” He also says; "Hey S, Shut up!" or "S, stop talking!" Again it is part humour and part serious. I joke back with him now that hey I'm not talking or hey I'll shut up now okay! I know that the experience for him over there is going to be awesome and I said to him that I hope he learns lots so he can come back and kick my ass into high gear with some new knowledge. A also said to me; "If your station is a mess then your head is a mess!" It seems like such a simple statement but there is lots in it. AND I GET IT!

We shared a few drinks and then I had to go as I had to be at work at 10am (which really means I was there earlier). As I was driving home I was really thrilled that the more I work the more I seem to understand my purpose. It is plain as day what I should be doing, what I am doing and what I am going to do. My entire life up until now has been riddled, plagued even, with trying to figure out who I was and what I wanted. But no more. I know who I am, I know what I want and I know what I need to do.

Do any of you have that clarity? For that clarity is truly one of the most remarkable things in my life. I feel blessed to have such clarity and conviction. It has caused me to reevaluate me from the inside out. Examine destructive behaviours and attitudes in order to progress and moreover to eliminate completely toxic behaviours that are self destructive and not conducive to living my dream.

The kitchen really is a great place to explore all of these questions and more. So to A, I would like to wish you bonne journee. Make the most of the experience my friend as it is going to be a hard and arduous journey but it will be one which will pay you back a million fold. I look forward to winning the bet. Travel safe.

To everyone else do something today in pursuit of you. Reach inside and dust off that dream. Shake it up and start exploring what it means to be you and what your mission is in life. Now that I’m living mine every day I truly feel reborn, filled with vim and vigour and ready to take on the world. I have perma smile both inside and out.

T. Harv Eker once said;

“Your life is not just about you. It’s also about contributing to others. It’s about living true to your mission and reason for being here on this earth at this time. It’s about adding your piece of the puzzle to the world. Most people are so stuck in their egos that everything revolves around me, me, and more me. But if you want to be rich in the truest sense of the word, it can’t only be about you. It has to include adding value to other people’s lives.”

I am beyond rich and I’ve always said that but now more than ever I realize that my life is enriched by the people that have taken me at my word. Head Chef and Exec Chef are both making an invaluable contribution in my life so that I can do the same. This experience is causing me to see what I want to become is what I will work tirelessly toward. The honesty of what I’m doing is crystal clear and I would like to believe that as those people are adding value to my life I too am adding value to theirs. Think about that statement for a while and then figure out what YOU’RE doing and what you WANT to do. Clarity is a wonderful thing.

Be inspired today!

SDM

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Do Your Job!

A common theme to be sure at Reservation. A cook is only as good as the job he is doing presently. It is amazing to be in this environment surrounded by people that are really becoming a surrogate family for me. For the first time in my life I feel like I am in the right place surrounded by the right people and it is truly inspiring.

So I keep a notebook at work (right by my side) to take notes of what I’m doing and learning. Every morning I have now started putting a little note at the top of the page. This days was; “ I LOVE THIS JOB!”

What follows are the notes from my day as an example of how I keep track of what I’m doing;

Jus
Receive Meat
Put away Pastry
Roast Bones
Make Sun Dried filling for Chicken,
Puree Garlic
Peel 80 Pounds Yukon
Got my locker today
Put away produce
Cut Frisse
Make Hummus
Cut Yukon fries
Make Smoked Ketchup
Make Roasted Aioli
Make Chive Double Cream
Prep Omelette Station
Peel 2 more buckets potatoes
Plate Cheese
Plate Meat

Moreover so that you know this is also in conjunction with my assigned prep list now, which is;

Receive, label, Date and put away all receiving
Roast Beets, Garlic, Spaghetti Squash
Quarter Romaine
Peel baby carrots
Dice Bread
Halve Cherry Tomatoes
Put Nicoise Olives,
Shave Spaghetti Squash
Chop Romaine
Cut lards of Double Smoked Bacon
Cut Croutons
Make Truffle Vinaigrette
Peel Potatoes, Onions, Carrots
Mire Pois
White Mire Pois
Clean French beans
Puree Garlic
Grill Corn
Clean Scallions,
Herb Salad
Cut Fingerlings
Gauffrettes Russet Potatoes AND OF COURSE

Stock, Remi and Jus!

Now some of this needs to get done every day and some if it just a few times a week. But soon it will squarely rest of my shoulders to get all this done. Sounds a little daunting to some I’m sure but it is what I was born to do and this is where the journey begins.

These are the things that need to get done day in and day out for service. As the Apprentice Cook I am really making sure that the line has everything prepared for service. On top of which I have to do anything else that is thrown my way to prepare for functions with L. He is a machine. A Banquet and event machine. It is crazy watching him work, and for that matter, everyone there work. They all know what their doing, if they don’t they ask, and they do their job. Though at times they ride me a bit (its all part of the experience and getting your mind ready for more) to watch them work is a little daunting as I’m so slow and confused. I’m like a bull in a china shop and it frustrates me a bit. But to their credit they make sure that I just keep plugging away and doing my job. If I get a little frazzled I just need to slow down. Take a breath. Go for a smoke. Just get my head back into the game and then back to work.

Julia Child once said; “I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then, I just ate.” I started at 33 so there is definitely hope yet.

I hope you all have an inspired day.

A la prochaine

SDM

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Take Two of a Cooks’ Snow Day

It has been at least a decade since Toronto has seen snow like it has been getting lately. Last night the North Pole visited our fine city again and dropped at least seven or eight inches making getting to work a very ‘fun’ (read pain in the ass) experience. Usually getting to work by the Streetcar should take about an hour. If I am fortunate enough to be driving (today I had no choice) it should take about twenty minutes. Well I guess the memo to Toronto drivers (read invading 905ers’ and beyond) didn’t get out. I was to punch in at 10 (though start at 9 as part of my learning experience which I’ve explained earlier.) as such I left my house at 8:10 thinking I would have more than enough time to get there for 9. Wishful thinking I assure you. It was my worst Sunday nightmare come true on a Wednesday. I got there as fast as I could. 9:21. Don’t get me wrong. I love the snow and I love Toronto. But I don’t love the invading hordes more marauding than Ghengis Khan and Hannibal combined. And yet I smiled. Which shocked everyone that saw my face driving and singing to Lauryn Hill.

Of course when I got there there was no parking and I read this as an indication of the day to come. Finally after moving my car a second time and paying another four bucks Chef told me that I could park in the Green P on the premises for a $10 max for fourteen hours. Done and done. But it did let me sneak in a smoke (only three today).

How did my day start? Bueller, Bueller! Naturally with draining and straining the stock, putting it into 16 litre pails, covering, label and organizing and then putting in the fridge. The other day I had let the pails sit out for a few minutes and Head Chef ran (not really running as it is ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN in the kitchen) by and explained to me why we put it away right away. BACTERIA growth and our success to keep bacteria at bay. Easy enough lesson to learn and one that only needs to be explained once. This applies to all food. Not just stock. Don’t ever leave anything out AND definitely make sure that you mark what it is, what the date was and then put it away.

Today was the first day I didn’t really ask anyone what to do. Common sense, which is by no means common, dictated that I start getting the Mise ready for everyone on the line. As such I roasted an entire bus pan of beets. Peeled the carrots. Cut potatoes in three different ways with three different varieties. Naturally there was the Yukon Gold for the hand cut (my hand) French fries, Russets for gauffrettes and Fingerlings for rounds. Two of those starches are used by the Saucier and J who is the Entremetier uses the other.

This is a good time to explain the stations of a professional kitchen. Essentially you have the Executive Chef, then the Head Chef. These two positions are pretty self-explanatory. Then you have the Saucier (A in our kitchen). The Saucier in our kitchen is responsible for prepping all the meats, trimming, carving and creating the proper portion sizes. He is also responsible for preparing the sauces, grilling the meats and final plating along with Head Chef. In the absence of Head Chef and Exec it is he who runs the line. A is in his middle twenties and at the top of his game. He is about to go on another stage (10 days or so from now, maybe even less) at a fabulous restaurant in Oxford, England. After him you have the Poissonier (D in our kitchen). It is his job as the name suggests to butcher the fish, prepare it and then serve it. After him you have J who is the Entremetier who is responsible for all hot apps, soups, vegetables and starches. Finally in our kitchen you have S (a woman from Korea) who is the Garde Manger, it is her duty to prepare all the salads, cold apps and deserts. This team is amazing and very good at what they do. It is quite a spectacle to behold. And if you have the option to see a professional brigade at work you should. They are lighting fast and laser accurate. Think of SEALS, RANGERS, MOSSAD, GHURKAS or any other special force in the world.

I then had to vacuum pack various items including duck that our Saucier had just prepared and package it in units of ten. The Poissonier finished portioning some fish (Mon Fish, Salmon, Grouper) along with the help of SH who is one of the cooks at our sister restaurant. I had to pack away 3 different type of fish. I then vac packed the jus that I had completed last week and put it away for safe keeping in the walk in freezer. I learned another lesson on that note tonight. Do not lose any of the jus.

It literally is a sheeny black gold. I lost about a litre tonight as the vac pack seal did not hold. It put me in a pretty low mood for a bit as I know how valuable it is to Chef and in hard currency. I did apologize profusely. The problem was that I didn’t remove the spacer boards and as such the jus flowed over and spilled covering a good sixth of an inch of the vac pack machine. Good times, really! I told Head Chef that I owe him a few beers when the opportunity next avails itself.

I was scheduled to work until 8 tonight and as I mentioned earlier I got my snow day. I punched out at 7:48. AND I forgot to sign the sign out sheet. I was just excited to get home and write about my day I suppose. I realized it after I was about five minutes away. No big loss.

Exec Chef loaned me another of his books for my day off tomorrow. It is In Search of Perfection by Heston Blumenthal. Though he did tell me to just look at it and not get to deeply into it. This plays on a component of our conversation last night in which he cautioned me from only devoting myself to this. A wise man; Exec Chef said that I need to devote time to my other passions (here is one obviously) but he made it clear that it had to be separate from the kitchen and with as much enthusiasm. He explained that eventually I will have to put the other on the back burner but for now it is important so that my head stays in the game. I understood what he was saying on numerous levels.

Another one of the fantastic benefits of chasing my dream is that it has caused me to start looking at myself, inwardly and those around me. It has helped me to start questioning certain things and to start writing again. A passionate soulful writing that is directly related to me as opposed to the world around me. It feels wonderful and it is a great legacy to hand to my children so they can see how I became the man I became.

None of this would have been possible without my family. Directly the love of my life C who has been an unconditional supporter of mine (which at times has been beyond hard she must be an angel, certainly mine). A constant source of inspiration and a graceful source of sage like wisdom. Her family, my family and my closest friends and you know who you are (who are part of my family of course). I thank you all for your guidance, your support, your love, your criticism but most of all your continued faith in me. I will show you all that you were right in more ways than one. I love you all! I value you and hope that some day I can repay your unfettered kindness.

J.R.R. Tolkien once said; “If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

Which brings me to another point. As I studied Political Science and History while at University I’ve often wondered how much depends on the meals they (you know the marble halls and mahogany desk types) eat. I heard someone else say that the other day and I laughed as I thought I was the only one to think about that. I mean really, if Khrushchev and Kennedy had eaten a horrible meal in Vienna would I be writing this at this very moment? Would mushroom clouds have filled the sky because the Carbonara or Thermador was cooked incorrectly? Or if Kissinger had sat down a little earlier over some great French meal with the Vietnamese would less Americans have died? Pardon the pun but it truly is food for thought!

I hope you had a day filled with wonder and delight and make tomorrow an inspired day in your own personal pursuit of excellence.

Bonne Journee et a la Prochaine!

SDM

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Executive Chef

I arrived today bright eyed and bushy tailed at 8:45 am. When I walked in there was no one there and there were only two notes directing me what to do. As such when orders came in, I checked the orders and signed the invoices. Before doing that I started roasting the bones for the stock, as that is the first thing that I am supposed to do each day. I proceeded to pull the other stocks out of “the grocery store” as well as the remi and started to combine the two in order to make the jus.

Order after order came in and I had to make sure that I checked and double-checked each order. Vegetables. Proteins and more. All of it came through the door in the fist hour or so that I was there. Then I started to prepare the Mise for the line. Cutting tomatoes, potatoes, nicoise olives, romaine lettuce, etc.

Have you ever peeled a baby carrot? Making sure to only take off enough that it still maintains its natural shape? Of course it sounds easy but it is not. That is until you peel a few hundred of them, then you experientially. It then becomes obvious to you what you need to do and how you need to do it.

I was going to quit smoking today and had gone about sixteen hours before I got screamed at. Don’t worry it wasn’t anything I did. This particular persons dog had died and being the FNG (fucking new guy) it was safe for him to haul off on me. I did take it in stride but I needed a cigarette afterward. Don’t worry I only had a couple and am still dedicated to quitting.

On a few occasions I got to ask Exec Chef a series of questions today. I asked about Stages (going out to learn more), how to build a menu, gastriques, etc. I also asked if he could recommend some restaurants in NYC as my baby is there and there is someone that will take her out. He concluded the same as I; “First stop Daniels!” I agree!

One note about stages. The Saucier told me in a lengthy conversation today that stages officially end somewhere around thirty. This put me in a bit of a blue funk but then after speaking to Exec Chef he told me that yes that was true officially but that a year from now he would be happy to pick up the phone for me and open the door. He also told me that I had to start saving, set up an account so that I could cover the stage myself although he would be able to arrange room and board. I already know where I want to do my first two stages. I didn’t tell him as I felt that it was both inappropriate and unnecessary. He reassured me that when the time came he would be there for me.

That of course made me feel even better. It reassured me that I had chosen the right kitchen (though I knew I already did) and the more than perfect teacher. It is a mutual investment we are making in each other. And I plan to pay it back in spades and a little bit of sweat labour.

I also asked if he would loan me a book which would give me some insight into what it is that he does at Reservation. He was only too happy to oblige and gave me the only copy of Girardet in the country. He also again reassured me that I was doing fantastic and that I will do very well in the industry as long as I keep my good temper, ability to learn and do it quick. It was very nice to have this assurance.

He then released me early (though it was 8 pm and I clocked out a 5) as he did not feel it was right for me to do menial tasks as on my time I should be learning things. I told him that I did not look at it as menial but instead as part of the process. I finished what I had to and then left so I could come home and study with Girardet and Larousse Gastronomique and of course write to you.

That said. I have learned in my first week so much. And I have become comfortable in my own skin. For those of you waiting for that to happen. IT FINALLY HAS! And I have turned not only a new page, but developed a whole new book. Thank you for your support and you know who you are.

It is written in the Proverbs in the Old Testament; “Better is a dinner of herbs where love is, than a stalled ox and hatred therewith.” And I couldn’t agree more.

Please have an inspired day, live, love and laugh as life is far to short for petty differences. Try to put one behind you today.

SDM