Saturday, March 8, 2008

Let it snow… (File under craziest winter in a decade)

Good Saturday to everyone! I hope that it was filled with wonder and delight. My day started early as usual and again because of a little bit of snow everyone drove like they had never seen a snowflake, let alone a white out. It took me forty-five minutes to get to work as everyone was doing thirty kilometers an hour. But I made it there safe and that is what matters most. I really do need to reiterate though that people who live in this city drive me bonkers. They complain about the heat, they complain about the snow, they complain about everything. Me, I live in Toronto, I’m used to this. At least this is how it was when I was growing up. Truth be told my only regret about this winter is that C has missed the first real winter since she moved here from Montreal. At any rate…

The last couple of days have been fabulous. I really have, as I’ve stated earlier, found my very own dysfunctional yet entirely working family. We all have our own quirks, mannerisms, and language but have common ground in our love of food. I’m not sure that every kitchen (professional) is filled with people that truly love food. I enjoy learning every day and have even come to love the way that everyone speaks to each other. Think Goodfellas meets Hell’s Kitchen meets Animal House (though I’m still on the fence about Gordon Ramsay but we’ll get into that later). It really is the most beautiful combination of these things and I know that I will have life long friends as a result of my time at Reservation.

So on Tuesday (which was my day off) I tried to make an authentic Indian curry. It ended up being more like a Trinidadian curry but was good nonetheless. I’ve had four curries this past week. Shu (I will call him that as it gets confusing just to have S) made two and Chef J made one as well. THEY WERE FABULOUS and I will as a result try to find a way to not improve but put my own personal spin on curry. I LOVE CURRY! Have you had a good one lately? If not, you should, and if you’ve never had curry, get off your ass, stop reading this (though I will miss you and there may be a test later and go get one post quick. That is my prescription for the day!)

Friends visited me this week. My old business partner and a friend of ours came in for dinner. I got to introduce them to Executive Chef, Head Chef and the line as well as show them where I work. L said that she was thrilled for me and that she loved seeing me in my whites and happier than a pig in shit on slaughter day. Well, maybe not those words exactly but remember I get to have a little creative license here. It brought a massive smile (not that I ever am without one these days) that someone got to see me in my whites and as she said “my element.” I never had an element before and now that I have one I feel incredible. I feel alive. I feel like my purpose has brought meaning to my everyday.

Head Chef and I had a conversation a few times this week as he was doing his Mise and I was helping. One of the conversations was about the fries that I was working on. He told me that when he was at the Fat Duck (http://www.fatduck.co.uk/) working with Heston Blumenthal that another of his projects was working on fries. He told me that the “perfect” batch of fries takes three days and then proceeded to give me a tip as to how to ensure that the texture on the inside of the fry is like mashed potatoes but the outside is nice and crispy. As always I will not elaborate how he did it or taught me to do it. But if you do want a great fry come on down and I’ll be happy to give you the best fries you’ve ever had. This caused me to start looking at how I evaluate food. How I can improve upon every day things. How I can start to think of things outside of the box and be rewarded for it. It is a great realization to come to. Although currently Heston Blumenthal and molecular gastronomy are a stretch for me (and if you say it isn’t for you then you’re much better than I and we should talk). I mean his methodology to me is akin to Ferrari racing. The best, most critical and sensational things from the most commonplace. Truly inspired and something to which to aspire.

Chef J has also started revealing things to me. I guess now that the initial uncertainty is gone everyone at Reservation has seen that I am in it for the long haul. Chef J revealed to me what he puts in his curry among many other things this week. I like speaking with him as he is very understated. His demeanor is calm but firm and he has an eye for detail (as all Chefs must if they ware good). I have a lot to learn from him and look forward to learning all I can from him.

One of the gentlemen that helped get me the job and I have become fast friends. He and I go out and have a drink about once a week and it is like we’ve known each other forever. E is a young up and comer. He is knowledgeable, intelligent, spirited, passionate and a straight shooter. I look forward to our friendship growing and what’s more knowing him for a long time to come. As I always like to say he is “good people.”

I’ve started paying attention to everything that I do in a day. And when I say attention I analyze what I’m doing and the impact it has n the end result. I make my list and cross things off. I have started monitoring my time and trying to get a fix on how long things should take. An example of one of the things that I’m paying attention to is ordering. I’m piecing together the process and the result. I am making note of what gets ordered, what it is used for, what it costs. All things that are going to benefit me in the future when it is my time to do the ordering for Reservation but what’s more when I have my own restaurant. I make a concerted effort everyday to speak with the suppliers that are bringing things in and I make sure that everyone that comes and goes hears that I am fabulous and that I hope they have a great day. I feel that just that little thing is enough to change people’s lives, consistency, brought on by purpose and joy. Do you know what I mean?

Thursday night I also got to go see my friends MoBadAss play their first Toronto show. In fact I am the official documentarian for them which is nice because it gives me another outlet as well. Remember that Executive Chef has told me that I need to have another outlet in order to recharge and unwind. I can understand why.

As well my Choron is getting better. I had a couple of them break on me this week and through trial and error I’ve come to the conclusion that I wasn’t cooking the eggs long enough. It takes a while to make one correctly but today I think I got it. Though it tasted good and Executive Chef even said so, “Pretty god,” were the exact words, but then Head Chef thought that it was a bit sweet and too acidic. Note to self reduce acid and possibly less tomato paste though I think that it may have been an especially fragrant batch of tarragon that was the culprit. Nonetheless I will get there. Ah mother sauces. The very foundation of any Chef worth his weight in Foie Gras!

So it is nice to be able to come home and write, as I’m not too tired. In fact I am going to read some more of Michel Bras’ “Essential Cuisine,” make some notes and write some more of the million questions I have rolling around in my head. I spend all day, every day, every waking moment laser focused on what I’m doing, on where I’m going and on what I am becoming. I really enjoy Michel Bras and have much to learn from him.

I still haven’t gotten a report on Le Parker Meridien’s burger. Though I’m certain when C gets to it I will find out just how fabulously Emile Castillo makes a burger. I myself can hardly wait to go down and give it a shot myself. I mean Le Parker Meridien you’d figure that a burger has to cost 50 bucks. But no a cheeseburger is 7 bucks (if you are in the know and know how to find it tucked down a narrow hallway).

I recall something that Paul Prudhomme once said that seems fitting; “I think the most wonderful thing in the world is another chef. I'm always excited about learning new things about food.” Me too.

I hope you all have a beautiful evening, perhaps nestled up next to your honey with some red wine (full bodied of course), a fire and of course some laughs. Have a wonderful evening, dream big and have an inspired tomorrow.

A la prochaine

SDM

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Today… I will BE! (File under self-actualization)

I hope you all had as amazing a day as I did. In fact all my days are amazing. I am on the lifelong journey of becoming a better person by practicing and living out my dream. You know you can too? Maybe tomorrow you should try! Or better yet TODAY! The blog title is what I wrote at the top of my book today!

At any rate, again because of the incredible snowstorm we had last night. I only say incredible as if you watch the news you would think that God him/herself/it had opened up the heavens and placed us at the very polar ice caps and delivered us an onslaught of snow that rivaled well… Not quite sure what but it was (think cheesy local meteorologist with some quirky sounds effects) SNOWSSSSSSSSTORM ’08. Are you prepared? People drive like idiots in the snow and it drives me bonkers. I mean really. I grew up in this country and sure this is the most snow that we have seen in ten years but really, isn’t it kind of like riding a bike, or slurping pasta (don’t even get me into the physics of that one). Anyway, I left in order to be early for work and was still a half an hour late that really means an hour and a half. Needless to say I was a little behind the eight ball but I did get what I needed to done.

Today was a marvelous journey of discovery and learning (as every day is). C was remarking to me today that the more she learns the more she realizes that there is more to learn. As she is an actress and I am an aspiring chef I truly get what she is saying. My whole life I have been searching for something that allowed me to make a valuable contribution, to learn and to grow. It would seem that she has come to the same conclusion as I have at right about the same time. Oh cosmic circumstance. How do I love thee? Not as much as C, but I do love thee nonetheless.

Today I learned how to make Gougers. A Gouger is essentially a choux paste that can be flavoured. It is so awesome for me to learn these things as they are the very foundation of what I am seeking to become and in fact I have taken the first steps. It is easy enough to make the choux paste but it is altogether another thing trying to pipe them properly to ensure they rise before the crust is formed. There is a magical trick that I will not tell you here but I know it. Not really magic but more a deeper understanding of how the choux paste operates both in the process of making it and cooking it. I LOVE IT! Today we flavoured it with four-year-old aged cheddar and thyme. J, the pastry Chef looked at me and said hey do you want to learn this. I looked at her and said that she knows I want to learn everything. She smiled and said something to the effect of; Giddyup (my word not hers… Come on I have to have some creative license)! And I did. Mine didn’t turn out too bad for a first attempt and it definitely made me smile. As most things in the kitchen do.

I also learned today how to make Executive Chef’s Ceviche, Salmon Tartare and Steak Tartare. He was making them for a special tasting menu with wines that paired perfectly. Of course I sat (read stood attentively) paying close attention to everything he did. Trying to capture the grand strokes as well as the minutiae. All the while I was asking him questions about how he arrived at the recipe and how long it took him to perfect them and believe me. I have had tartare at some of the finest restaurants in the world. To my palate (and my fathers too) the best Tartare used to be at the Movenpick in Yorkville. Growing up I would watch as he ordered it and be a little grossed out by it. One day he said try it and I did. Haven’t looked back since and I am thrilled that I didn’t. As always I will not betray the trust of Executive Chef but I can tell you that his take on both Tartares was both classical and yet entirely innovative. The balance in each of them was PERFECT and I do not say this lightly. There is one ingredient he added to the Steak tartare that I helped him prepare that rocked my world.

The texture of the Tartare was sublime. It melted in your mouth and was truly special. The key to any tartare is the best fresh ingredients. It is not for the faint of heart to attempt and surely should not be attempted with the crap you buy in a grocery store. Ours was made with the finest AAA tenderloin. I say ours but really it is Executive Chef’s. I just participated and learned helping with the mise, chopping, dicing, preparing, etc. But I can say this; the first bite hit me like a wrecking ball a house claimed for demolition. The first flavour was a cross hint of Dijon and lemon. The last flavour on the palate was at first subtle and then SMACK! It lingered perfectly and complimented the dish causing me to evaluate what I thought I knew about tartare. I asked how long it took him to perfect the dish. Without missing a beat and with a smile on his face (as always) he said eight years.

Eight years. Most people don’t have the mental acuity to last eight minutes in this instant gratification society. Look at TV and you’ll understand what I am saying. In fact look at all media and you’ll see what I’m saying. And yet, Executive Chef has spent eight years perfecting a recipe. I look forward to being able to say to someone I’m mentoring that it has taken me that long to suss out a recipe. It was an absolute pleasure and treat. Between the two tartars, the mini burgers, the duck mac and cheese, etc. I had quite a feast today. I also learned a little bit about plating and how to construct a dish merely by observing with an open mind and heart (and not silencing that agitated child inside of me that wants to learn more, more MORE!).

The Salmon Tartare was also heavenly. It was so heavenly I could imagine the little salmon (little not in size just in meaning) swimming upstream, minding his own business thinking how grand life is to be a fish only to be caught moments later so that I could enjoy him raw in a dish that defies explanation in its simplicity and integrity. Words that keep on coming up through the incredible Chefs I work with and their inspirations.

I have always been a bit leery of ceviche. When it is good it is awesome but when it is bad it is as if you are eating horse dung combined with seawater. This ceviche was made in the classical way but also including a little expensive tequila. Executive Chef was happy to explain to me how and why things worked and it really got me thinking. Most of the ceviche I have had in my life was little pieces (probably scraps from something else now that I know how a kitchen works at least a little). Not this ceviche, it was made with the finest part of the salmon, in chunks, with scallop, shrimp and grouper. WOW! Is all I can say. I know my dad who reads this will understand what it means when I say WOW! There is a professor after all who is in charge of all the things that make you say WOW and today that professor was Executive Chef! I felt honoured, privileged and at peace with my position and myself.

It was an absolute treat to learn these things today. I now know that I could prepare any one of the dishes that Executive Chef made today. I know that my efforts will require some tweaking, fine tuning, etc. But I know that I can, if called upon, do it in a prairie second.

Thus I say unto you; WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? Go seek your dream AND PUT YOURSELF INTO ACTION. You won’t believe how quickly your life will change. Or maybe you will because you’ve been reading my journey.

H. L. Mencken once said; "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." FOOD for thought my friends.

Dream big tonight and be inspired tomorrow.

A la prochaine

SDM

Michel Bras & My Day Off! (File under much needed sleep)

It takes a unique individual to want to be a chef. There is a great physical and mental toll on you as you are consistently working long hours and will work for long stretches before having a day off. My current stretch had been six days of fourteen hours a day. Each day filled with non-stop action and incredible amounts of learning.

So yesterday I woke up and decided to treat myself to a massage after having slept for fourteen hours. I usually sleep around six. I usually get a massage about once a year. The one I had yesterday felt great though today I am in a little bit of pain and by a little you should read that my lower back feels as if a voodoo doll has my name on it somewhere and there are pins being placed in my lower left side. It is excruciating but I know that the benefit of the massage far outweighs the current pain. Some of which relates to an accident I had as a kid and the way that the temperature changes so quickly. It causes my back to expand and contract (as yours does too though you are probably unaware of it). The masseuse asked where my trouble spots were and I told her, hands, feet and lower back. After touching them for only a moment she knew that I spent most of my time on my feet. As she got to my hands she apologized that she was unable to do more for them and noticed that they were especially tight. (File that under extremely obvious… to me anyway).

After that I was feeling quite amazing. I came home and worked on my blog post from yesterday. The massage was having an impact on me and I had to go lay down for a while. It is nice to be able to listen to my bodies’ needs and desires. It is something that I have not done most of my life and have just kept pushing myself but I am now realizing the importance of downtime for my body AND my mind.

Short nap concluded I started to read through Michel Bras’ “Essential Cuisine.” Michel Bras is INSANELY talented. I only got into the book a little and will write more when I get a chance. Needless to say he is opening my eyes to a level of food that I aspire too (as are Alfred Portale, Heston Blumenthal, The Troisgros and Roux Brothers, not too mention Executive and Head Chefs among many others).

I wanted to take the time to write this post this morning before going to work as I may not have time later.

Another thing I wanted to include in yesterdays post but slipped my mind was how aware you need to be to be a chef. The other night after a long day at work I asked Head Chef if I could have a drink. He asked how many I had had that day and I responded none. He asked me to speak again and I said that after working a long day a drink is nice and that I’m not going to stop at a bar on the way home. He said yes. As I was changing into my civies I realized that one of Exec Chef’s friends had given me a sip of a beautiful full bodied red. I came out to Head Chef and mentioned that I had had a sip and that I was an honest person and it had slipped my mind. I had had the sip perhaps half an hour before and I remarked that it was amazing that he could still smell it. He then gave me an example of awareness that baked my noodle (Remember there is no spoon). He said not only am I aware of that sip, I can also smell a horrible perfume about thirty feet that way. Beef smells are still lingering and I can smell sea food. All of this caused me to see that I need to awaken my senses even more and I need to be a student of them.

I’ve come to realize through the love and support of my friends what my life is supposed to be. This realization or eureka moment if you will has really freed me from my past. It has opened the door to my present and set me on a course for the future. At the end of each of my posts I ask you what your dream is. What is your dream? Are you willing to work for it? Can you focus on it? Try! Look deep within yourself, then have conversations with those around you, you will see that the universe has a wonderful way of helping you once you have clarity. So today seek some clarity and dream inspired. Dream big.

T.E. Lawrence once said; “All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”

Try to open your eyes today and realize that possibility is only one step away. Can you take that step?

Be inspired today!

A la prochaine

SDM

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

The Release Method (file under JACKASS)

To my loyal readers I apologize that I have not been able to write. This past week was a six day hurricane of activity and it prevented me from not only writing my blog but also writing many of my daily butcher paper poems. It really affects my mental state to not be able to download all the stuff that I have inside my head. AND BELIEVE ME THERE IS LOTS! As a result this blog post will cover the last few days and get you caught up on my whirlwind dream chasing adventures. Have you figured your dream out yet? What are you waiting for?

So I walked into work and handed over the piece that Head Chef had asked for. It felt awesome to have an accurate record of what I am after and why. Many years from now I look forward to looking at it (as well as my love, my kids and everyone else. It will be prominently displayed at ONE of my restaurants).



The release method… I was prepping something for one of the sister restaurants, Meatballs in fact. I took out what I thought was the mixture and tried to roll it. It felt weird in my hands and had absolutely no staying power. I tasted it and was still unsure what it was. As a result I walked over to Chef J and said that I was having a problem rolling the meatballs, was there something I could do. He looked at me with astonishment on his face. If you’ve ever seen Roger Rabbit you can imagine the face by thinking of the part where the Judge’s eyes pop out and his mouth drops to the floor. Ends up I was trying to roll the mushroom mixtures used for crustini and gnocchi. He just started laughing and I walked away. So a few hours later Head Chef comes out from his office with Chef J in tow and starts asking me a few questions. I could sense that Chef J had told him and I prepared myself for an onslaught of “Napalm in the morning” variety. Head Chef let me know that if I ever confused meatballs with mushrooms again… well you get the picture. But the public humiliation of it ensured that I learned the lesson quickly. Moreover, as Head Chef walked away he asked Chef J to teach me the release method.

Quite simply the release method is to put your feet should width apart. Bend the knees. Place your hands squarely on your thighs, drop your head down and then quickly pull up. Thus, releasing your head from you ass. In this case MY head from MY ass. This incident also spawned the first nickname that has stuck at Reservation for me; Meatball! It still makes me laugh now.

I also came to the realization that most of my life I’ve looked at things a certain way. It was wrong. It was a skewed worldview that affected everything I did, everything I said and the way that other people thus perceived me. It is easy to become jaded in this world. There is so much going on. So much negativity. I fell victim (largely because I am hugely empathetic) to that skewed worldview. Rather than looking at the good, I would focus on the bad and the ugly. As you all can see though I have snapped out of that and instead focus on the positive. As I wrote this week there are numerous ways to look at a situation. If you focus on the good the bad will just go away and slip from your mind much faster than you think.

I’ve decided that I must live for today. Last year C and I made a trip to Europe. In Linz, Austria we came across a massive piece of art that caused me to start thinking. You’ll see it below;



Think about what this says. It took me finding myself to truly get it. Over the weekend we were extremely busy. Actually for the last week (as you know because I have written) we have been extremely busy. But one of the several highlights of my week was meeting Lynn Crawford (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Crawford ) and Kevin Brauch (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kevin_Brauch ). Chef Crawford is one of the most talented people in the culinary field. Period. It makes it all the more sweet that she is a woman (for me anyway). Kevin Brauch is just a standup guy and I can hardly wait until we get to share a drink again.

In the past week I learned how to filet a fish. There are two basic types of fish. Round fish and flat fish. From a round fish you are going to get four filets and from a flat one only two. I also learned how to make a lobster bisque and so much more.

For the competition that both Exec Chef and Head Chef were part of on Sunday I was asked to prepare a lot of the ingredients for them. One of the things that I was asked to do was to cut a perfect one-quarter inch dice of apples. I started with a ruler. After a while I stopped thinking about the ruler and just focused on the task at hand. If you do this you will find that your brain and body begin to act in a weird unison that defies explanation. I am not very good at it yet but I will be.

I am now about to go and start reading Michel Bras’ ( http://www.michel-bras.com )book “Essential Cuisine.” I will blog about it later. I will write another post shortly.

Anatole France once said; “To accomplish great things, we must not only act, but also dream; not only plan, but also believe.” I believe that I am going to be a great chef. What do you believe?

Be inspired and dream big.

A la prochaine