Tuesday, December 16, 2008

The Times (file under They Are a Changin)

As many people know I am a massive fan of Hunter S. Thompson. The father of Gonzo journalism and certainly an original. As I’ve though about this post I have found myself considering exactly what he would say and found myself blank as it is far too gonzo for even him.

I asked former Executive Chef and current Director of Operations about the nature of our business when I first started working for him. I told him that it was my dream to change the business. I know how I want to change it, why I want to change it and spend my days working on the plan to change it. He told me that he feels it is impossible to change the culture of food the way that I want to. I respectfully disagree and while I have a plan I can not use this forum to explain what it is just yet.

As a cook, a chef, or anyone in the food industry can tell you there are very few players in the business at the top level. Maybe ten or fifteen massive conglomerates that in some way or another dictate food policy around the globe.

As we all know, globalization is slowly becoming a reality, despite the best efforts of our so called radicals and grass roots people to work against the tide. The result in the food industry is that we have gone from species of plants that ranged in the thousands to now just the hundreds and if the conglomerates have their way only but a handful. This is wrong. WRONG!

I have just finished reading a book which I strongly recommend entitled; “ The End of Food” by Thomas Pawlick. I URGE YOU TO READ THIS BOOK.

Amongst other things, Pawlick addresses the slaughter of the family farm and the reshaping of agribusiness (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agribusiness ). It is a shame and it is something that we can do something about. It is kind of like John Lennon said; “War is over, if you want it.”

There is a war being wages by massive companies that seek to ensure that the produce we buy from the supermarkets, huge conglomerates themselves, looks the same. For instance that a tomato looks like a tomato. What they don’t tell you is that this practice is killing off the species of plants by ensuring the companies like Cargill and Monsanto, just to name two and their Genetically Modified (seeds, are the only source available to farmers. Moreover that once these farmers accept these Genetically Modified (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetically_modified_food ) seeds that they are forever in needs of the services of these giants of industry for fertilizer, seeds, etc. THIS IS WRONG.

Pawlick brought up a point that I wrote a paper about in university about the Stalin purges of the Russian arming peasant class and the disastrous results for farming not just in the Ukraine but the whole Soviet Union.

We need to eat. These companies know that. But the food that we are eating today is less nutritious and because of the farming practices may actually be doing us more harm than good.

I have mentioned numerous times before that I know what I plan to do. It involves changing this. One morsel at a time. Can I do it? Yes.. But only if you become informed.

Stay tuned because this is just the tip of the iceberg. I would write more now but I am tired. It has been a long day. I have a day off coming up and will write a more in depth post but wanted to get your minds thinking.

Vandana Shiva says; "Far from feeding the world, people are going to starve because of genetically engineered foods. More and more peasants will see their
crops substituted through biotechnology."

Pay attention people and I promise more to come from me on the subject in the next few days.

Malthus (another University paper I wrote about) once said; “Population, when unchecked, increases in a geometrical ratio. Subsistence increases only in an arithmetical ratio.” Genetic Modification renders this statement untrue but AT WHAT COST!

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Days like These (File under Mama Said There’d Be)

I had a rough day. Personally rough because I had to challenge my own person. I had to decide very quickly whether I would allow the demons deep within my soul to take control of my outward manifestations OR whether I would exercise some self restraint and learn something in the process.

We have a very hands on owner at Without Reservation. He does a lot of the expediting during lunch service and he has a bit of a problem, in that, he likes to jump chits and send out food that has been prepared for another bill. But first by way of explanation.

When a chit comes in the entire kitchen works in tandem to ensure that the bill is completed, in full, at the same time. Chef will call out a bill number and let us know the amount of time that is required for the longest element of that bill. It then becomes our challenge, task or obstacle, whatever you want to call it, to ensure that WE deliver within that time frame. Thus you can imagine what happens if an element of one bill is “jumped” and sent to another bill. The finely choreographed ballet soon looks like amateur hour at the community kitchen. AND I DON’T WANT THAT… EVER!

At lunch today I personally sent out sixty meals (approximately). SIXTY MEALS. At my busiest I was preparing eight different sandwiches and sides, two Penne and a Spaghetti. All of which was being done to coincide with the Chefs’ call. I put up the food that I could as I was finishing off the Penne and soon looked up in horror as my Spaghetti and a couple of the sandwiches had been shifted from bills that I was working to bills that had just come in. This was done ostensibly to finish off a bill quickly. Yes, it finished the bill of quickly, but, on the other hand, it screwed up three or four other bills that caused me to have to come up, on the fly, with a way to complete those bills.

The problem is quite simple. Chicken only cooks so quickly. It wouldn’t matter whether it was Chicken or Fish or Pasta. The principle is the same. When you are working in a fast paced environment such as a lunch service, you learn how to divide your time appropriately to make sure that you never are the problem with a bill. However, when a bill is jumped and the food that you have prepared for that bill is sent out it causes you an enormous amount of stress because you never want to let your Chef down.

I am Irish and Scottish. Which means by my very heritage, I have been known, to have a temper. That temper usually manifests itself in a lyrical tirade that may or may not be lost on the recipient but the intent is quite plain. At numerous points during lunch today, perhaps as many as six or seven, I would have loved to let my mind be known verbally. Instead, much to my amazement and intense pleasure, I swallowed my anger and did my best to fulfill the orders that were my responsibility. I came very close, a couple of times, to letting go, but I did not.

Thus I have in the process become a better man, a better cook and will become a better Chef down the road because of it. Believe me when I say though that my fellow cooks were aware of my anger through some of my actions. After all actions do speak louder than words. There is a certain sound that a pan makes when it hits a sink in anger. Needless to say that sound was heard quite a few times through service.

After service I went outside and could see that Chef was angry. I asked what was up. He kept it internalized and I knew it wasn’t me. As I took a deep drag of my cigarette I mentioned my displeasure with what had happened during service. He noted my displeasure and let me know that it would be resolved in the near future.

As I sit and write this now I am thrilled with two things that happened today. One because of something that Executive Chef said to me as I was leaving Reservation. “Ferme la porte.” THANK YOU CHEF! A valuable lesson and one which I am learning is absolutely right. The second is that I am in control of my destiny, my personal response and my future.

For the longest time I would blame my heritage for the way that I was. NO LONGER! I am in control of me. As such I need to wage a battle with my mistaken beliefs and hold dominion over my reaction and response to the world around me. All in all, I think that today was a valuable day of personal awareness. And the more I analyze it, the better I feel.

All I could think about when I wanted to explode were the following quotes, 3 in fact;

Seneca once said; “Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power.”

Lord Alfred Tennyson said; “The happiness of a man in this life does not consist in the absence but in the mastery of his passions.”

Jack Kerouac; “My fault, my failure, is not in the passions I have, but in my lack of control of them.”

Food for thought. Don’t you think?

There is an old Asian Proverb which states; He that will not reflect is a ruined man.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

The F Word (file under Different Strokes for Different Folks)

I’ve mentioned Gordon Ramsay here before, if my memory serves, predominantly as it related to the American version of Hell’s Kitchen and as Marco Pierre White’s whipping boy way back when. Look it up, there is a picture of Gordon Ramsay crying in one of Marco Pierre White’s books. At any rate, Chef Ramsay, has a new show airing on the Food Network here in Canada (also I’m sure syndicated worldwide).

I have now watched a few episodes with my finger squarely on the fast forward button. I have immense respect for what Chef Ramsay has been able to achieve in his career. Though I find his methods a bit out there and feel that some of them may be created persona for his television audience rather than entirely real. Though some people that I know have encountered him and assure me that he is just as he appears. Again I take it with a grain of salt.

Intensely curious I watched as Chef Ramsay ripped apart his Commis’ for this, that or the other thing. The show is basically him building dishes, teaching his Commis’ with so called celebrity patrons at his restaurant. I strongly recommend watching just one episode so you can see exactly what I am talking about. It is also strange when he is explaining the recipes through a very surreal voice over to music wherein he says one word and then shows the steps. VERY WEIRD. But I guess in this age of instant gratification and limited attention spans he figures that his audience is only capable of paying attention for that long.

I bring this up because I believe that somehow, somewhere, certain Chefs came to believe that the only way to instill greatness in one of their students was through fear and intimidation. That fear, driving the student, to make the teacher happy. I AM NOT FROM THIS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT. I believe that it is completely unnecessary to degrade your student. While it may be necessary to deflate his ego or the like I certainly do not ascribe to Chef Ramsay’s methods. However, I believe that he has a track record that has worked for him and for the gluttons of punishment that have gone to work with him.

In this way I find that certain Chefs can illustrate plainly the belief that it is better to be feared than loved. I personally do not believe this. I would much rather have people love and respect me than fear me. Check it out for yourselves and you will see what I am talking about.

The great American jurist Thurgood Marshall once said; “What is the quality of your intent?

Certain people have a way of saying things that shake us at the core. Even when the words do not seem harsh or offensive, the impact is shattering. What we could be experiencing is the intent behind the words. When we intend to do good, we do. When we intend to do harm, it happens. What each of us must come to realize is that our intent always comes through. We cannot sugarcoat the feelings in our heart of hearts. The emotion is the energy that motivates. We cannot ignore what we really want to create. We should be honest and do it the way we feel it. What we owe to ourselves and everyone around is to examine the reasons of our true intent.

My intent will be evident in the results.”

Enough said!

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Smokers Corner (file under Quick Drags, Fags and Garbage)

Chefs and cooks the world over can tell you a similar tale. When it comes time for a cigarette during work there is only one place to go. Relegated really. To the garbage area. As unglamorous as that may sound, in fact, it is a refuge. It is a place where you can go and grab a seat for a quick break from an otherwise hectic day. Surrounded by garbage you sit there and take a moment for quiet contemplation, chat with the kitchen staff and inhale as quick as you can. I’ve got a slow cigarette down to four minutes and a fast one to about two minutes.

I know it sounds crazy that a garbage area can somehow become hallowed or glamorous. But to line cooks, kitchen staff and Chefs the world over it is as beautiful as the most glorious smoking room you have ever seen.

Luis Bunuel once wrote; “If alcohol is queen, then tobacco is her consort. It's a fond companion for all occasions, a loyal friend through fair weather and foul. People smoke to celebrate a happy moment, or to hide a bitter regret. Whether you're alone or with friends, it's a joy for all the senses. What lovelier sight is there than that double row of white cigarettes, lined up like soldiers on parade and wrapped in silver paper? I love to touch the pack in my pocket, open it, savor the feel of the cigarette between my fingers, the paper on my lips, the taste of tobacco on my tongue. I love to watch the flame spurt up, love to watch it come closer and closer, filling me with its warmth.”

But in no way do I advocate people starting smoking. Hypocrite – probably. But that is my demon to battle and someday in order to improve my palate I will quit. For now I just want to cut down. However, being a smoker, as I have, for 22 years, it won’t be easy.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

We Show Up (file under the show must go on)

Obviously with C home our social calendar is filling up more rapidly than the loss prevention room at Macy’s during the Christmas season. Of course you need to be able to balance work with play but sometimes you play a little much and have the choice of calling in dead (not really an option) or doing what every other person longing to be a chef does; SHOW UP!

Friday night C and I were at our good friends C and L. I finished work around 9 as we had a four course dinner party for forty which I addressed in the previous post. After work I had a pint of Guinness while I waited for C. We went to our friends place and drank and had an all around good time until around six am. Fortunately I didn’t have to be at work until three but even still though my head was clear my body was revolting a bit. As such I showed up to work early and made myself the best body repair dish I could after a night of debauchery, a grilled vegetable sandwich with Brie on pannini and truffle scented Poutine. SO GOOD! After that I felt like a million bucks.

One by one the brigade started filing in and it became immediately clear that we all had punished ourselves with a great time the night before. When Chef came in he looked like I felt. He, like most Chefs, suffers from sometimes debilitating arthritis and as such was not only hung over but in any extraordinary amount of pain. As such I immediately stepped up to the plate to make sure that everything ran smoothly.

There were only three of us to run the kitchen as Chef worked on paper work. We ended up not being overly busy but still had a lot to do. I ended up with some assistance from the Garde basically working the front line by myself. I did approximately fourteen steaks, a few chicken, six salmon, five penne, three ravioli, a few grilled veg sandwiches and a whole lot more.

Everything was running smoothly up until the last few orders when my eyes started failing me and I was reading the chits wrong. But, as any self respecting Chef would do I found a way to overcome the problem quickly. On two chits I read the order as if there was only one steak and one salmon. In fact there were two. As such, on the fly, and quickly, I had to get a medium salmon and a medium steak out. Almost without thought I seasoned both of them and put them on the grill to mark them. (By the way this is not the preferred method of cooking but it worked). As food had already gone out to the table I had to get this done quickly. After grill marking them I threw them under the salamander and was able to get them out to the table in less than four minutes after discovering my screw up. I apologized profusely to the waiter as it was my fault and not his that I misread the chit.

When I asked for a quality check after getting it out quickly he let me know that they were very happy, said the food tasted great and had no problem with the slight delay in food getting out.

I credit Reservation with giving me the ability to think quickly on my feet. Both Executive Chef and Director of Operations (not to mention A who has been invaluable to my progression) with teaching me that you need to overcome obstacles quickly. By using your head and not loosing your cool. So I thank all three of you for aiding me in overcoming the obstacles I faced last night.

In the end I have to admit that I feel amazing about being able, despite being somewhat hung over, being able to quickly address a problem. The whole night went off exceptionally well minus the two hiccups and I made sure to thank both the front of house and the brigade for their great work.

The night also gave me an extraordinary opportunity to learn. From our mistakes we learn much more than from our successes and the lessons stay with us for a lifetime. When I take the time to analyze where I was when I started this journey and where I am today I have come to realize that not only am I in the right industry, but I can and will achieve my goal.

After shutting down the kitchen I went to the front of house where the owner was. I had taken the time during the day to make a very special egg Nog which we were giving to the staff as a thank you when they were done their shifts. Walking out I felt very good about our week and what we had accomplished. The owner had the bartender pour me a double eggnog and he thanked me for the week. He let me know that we broke his previous sales record, not just broke it, but smashed it. As I pounded my first egg Nog and grabbed the rum to pour myself another, I felt satisfied that Chef and I and the brigade are starting to make a difference. All the more remarkable when you consider that many restaurants are soon going to feel the pinch of tightened pockets and financial restraint.

The great Canadian actress Mary Pickford once said; “If you have made mistakes, there is always another chance for you. You may have a fresh start any moment you choose, for this thing we call 'failure' is not the falling down, but the staying down.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired? START TODAY!

A la prochaine

SDM

Four Course Dinner Party for Forty (file under differences between current and past reality)

This year I have been a piece in the puzzle of joyful occasions for approximately six or seven thousand people. When I do my yearly roundup in middle January I can give you a more specific number but for the purposes of this post I believe that number will suffice.

At Reservation the function or banquet team had delivering happiness down to a science. L and I worked tirelessly to ensure that we made food look and taste good. We knew without thinking because of the number of functions that we worked how to do things and make the show run smoothly. I have to admit, I kind of miss the well oiled machine that was our function team. We could do functions at Reservation for twenty five as well as we did for six hundred or even double that.

So on Friday night at Without Reservation on top of our regular service we had a four course meal for forty, which incidentally, was going at the height of service, which made it rather interesting.

Simple set up, salad, soup, mains and desert. Salad was either a Caesar or house salad. Soup was a tomato herb. Main choices were steak, chicken or salmon and desert was crème brûlée. Chef and I have had experience doing parties like this and have it down to a second nature.

In order to smoothly run a function there are certain things that must be done in order to ensure that the food is good, the service is good and that it goes well. From our end Chef and I and the brigade knew what we were doing and how to do it. The Front of House well that is a whole different matter.

At Reservation it was a well oiled machine. Everyone knew their respective roles and how to fulfill to the best of our abilities. I feel that at Without Reservation the Front of House staff does not necessarily have much experience with doing parties such as this. And it showed.

To my eye, orders did not go smoothly. The count initially was wrong which adversely affects our ability to put out the right amount of proteins in a timely fashion. Naturally Chef and I were able to deal with it but it is my observation. So rather than having a coherent order sheet we had to three separate times try to figure out the front of house notations and in fact walk them through giving us the information in a meaningful way so that we could do our job. It worked out fine though and just took us a few shakes of the tree to get it right with the front of house. THIS IS NOT CRITICISM, it is OBSERVATION and more over is something that Chef and I will be able to correct going forward based on our experience.

The food we put out looked good, tasted great and was well received by the customer. He and his team will be back which is always a nice feeling. Compliments were sent from the client to the kitchen and I felt pretty good about what we accomplished.

Samuel Johnson once said; “Art and nature have stores inexhaustible by human intellects; and every moment produces something new to him who has quickened his faculties by diligent observation”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Comment Follow Up from last Post (file under confused)

After a great, though long, day yesterday I received notice that I had a comment from A on my last post. Reading it I was confused. It was as if I had somehow offended him though I can’t think how.

In the last post I spoke about politics and how it affects the kitchen. Feel free to give it a read and let me know if there is anything in it that anyone could possibly be insulting or untoward. I have strived on this blog to be honest about my experience and in fact have even censored myself if something were to happen which was negative. In effect whitewashing certain experiences in order to protect both the guilty and the innocent. As such I am currently confused.

As I have left one restaurant to go to the next I have started writing pieces which are a personally accurate reflection of MY experience. I have begun to look both with a critical but honest eye on how the past year has shaped my life and will continue to shape my life going forward. Thus, if I have offended anyone I apologize, it certainly is not my intent, but further, I need to continue writing pieces, which reflect both my experience and my future.

Oscar Wilde once said; “Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth.” This blog is my mask and I always strive to tell you the truth.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM