Saturday, January 24, 2009

Eric Ripert and On The Line (file under inspiration)

My wonderful stepmother got me a great birthday present. By the way are you sensing a theme in terms of what I consider to be a great present. She asked what I would like and I told her about a book about one of the great New York restaurants. I received it the other day and have already devoured it. Thanks S.

Eric Ripert (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Ripert ) teamed up with Christine Muhlke to write a book called; “On the Line, Inside the World of Le Bernardin.” Le Bernardin (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Bernardin ) is a New York institution in terms of restaurants and indeed the world as it is ranked as one of the 20 best.

One of the things that I really enjoy about this book is that Chef Ripert is detailed in what he and his team believe are the secret of success for the restaurant. One of the most telling things about the success is that Chef Ripert feels that he may not be able to recreate the success of the restaurant in another location when their lease is up in 2011.

This statement caused me to start thinking about what it takes to create a truly great restaurant. It is more than the people, the location, the food, the décor, etc. It is the unquantifiable that is far from tangible that enables a restaurant to be truly successful. It is outside the bounds of time and space and seems to transcend any meaningful explanation. However, this is not to say that I will not try to figure it out through a detailed exploration of many such restaurants.

Some of the more important parts of the book for me include the creation of a new dish. At one point they explain that in order to get a recipe right it can sometimes take days and sometimes months. This caused me, through the two examples they use, one which made it to the menu and one which didn’t, to question; What makes it right?

Interestingly the current Le Bernardin menu is included in the book as well as recipes to make each item. I found this absolutely intriguing for it raised the issue for me that is raised above. In terms of recreating the restaurants success. Can one Chef recreate another Chefs recipe with the same ingredients, in the same way and achieve the same result?

Moreover, one thing I have begun looking at is restaurant layouts. They too include the floor plan for both the kitchen and the restaurant. I find this information extremely helpful and a great insight into how I will create my own restaurant.

One of the most important things I believe that I took away from this book is; “You can be great and not be large.” This is something that I truly believe and find myself wavering between a larger or smaller restaurant set up.

Another repeated theme in the book is the Le Bernardin has begun hiring more women. I found this both exciting and interesting as more and more I believe that women are getting more recognition in the culinary field and not in the traditional pastry section.

I truly enjoyed devouring this book. I know that I will refer to it time and again for inspiration and I am grateful to now have it in my ever expanding library.

Chef Ripert says; “Because I’d suffered psychologically in the kitchens I had worked in before, I take pains with the management about being kind, human and civilized. I put a lot of pressure on guys like Chris to create an environment where people are happy to work, or at least not uncomfortable or afraid. And it’s a challenge because every day at twelve o’clock and eight o’clock, it’s war.”

This is a management philosophy that I believe I will adhere to.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la procaine

SDM

Ferran Adria and A Day at El Bulli (file under WOW PROFESSOR!)

For Christmas my old (and still to come) business partner gave me the trifecta gift that I had wanted, Ferran Adria’s book “A Day at El Bulli.” And I could not have been more thrilled. In fact I jumped up and gave her a huge hug after tearing just enough of the paper to reveal what it was. I was and am ecstatic.

What does it take to be referred to as the best Chef in the world? This book gives you an inkling into what it takes. Chef Adria receives 2,000,000 requests for only 8,000 seats a year. He is an originator who does for food the same thing that NASA does for space. He is a true pioneer who is shaping and reshaping the way that food is tasted and experienced. He is a master of his craft and it is very clear through the pages of this book that his primary drive is to create an “experience” for his patrons that will stay with them a lifetime.

Apparently his drive for excellence came out of the definition of creativity that he heard from French Chef (and vanguard in his own right) Jacques Maximin; “Creativity means not copying.”

While flipping the gorgeous pages of the book I was left pondering exactly how to incorporate that statement into my own food philosophy. Into my own drive for excellence and the very real mission that I believe I am on. That being to change the culture of food in North America.

Much of the book focuses on creative inspiration and method. Some of the salient points he has regarding creativity are as follows;

“New, creative and unique are not the same thing.”

“With creativity it is not what you look for that matters, but what you find.”

“Wanting to be creative is not enough.”

“A creative spirit does not necessarily lead to a creative result.”

“Ideas are easy – you just need to have some.”

Think about these past five quotes for a minute. They all are the result of Chef Adria’s contemplation of Jacques Maximin’s definition of creativity. I believe that he is correct in his assertion that creative means not copying. Especially as it relates to food. The question begs though, in an ever increasing globalized world, where true originality is harder to come by, where can this creativity lead us next?

I found this book extremely inspirational. I know that I will turn its pages when I find myself needing an inspirational kick in the ass. Another thing he wrote which has stuck in my mind since reading it is; “Let what you like to eat tell you how you should cook.” This is akin to the great advice for writers, write about what you know.

What happens at El Bulli is a true convergence of the creative spirit and the practical application of knowledge. In order to achieve this (in my mind) perfect symbiosis El Bulli employs 30 to 40 full time chefs. 13 of which are full time. Stages are chosen from among 5000 applicants who are chosen from different countries so that El Bulli can benefit from their knowledge and experience.

I have not fully internalized the way that Chef Adria’s creative method works and as such I don’t feel that I can have an informed discussion of it here now, but in the coming months, as I become more comfortable with it I will express my feelings about it.

What I can say is that he and his team complete 4000 hours of creative work a year. That is not a small number and when I consider that a top lawyer bills approximately 1800 hours a year I am taken aback at his drive for creative excellence.

Many questions came out of my reading of this book. And several answers too. The one thing I can say is that I am inspired and find myself reaching for ways to improve upon the legacy that he has created. Not necessarily for the world at large, but for myself.

One thing is certain. While in the last year I have gotten a great base from which to build and expand. That foundation needs to be expanded to include a wider knowledge of ingredients and complimentary pairings before I can fully utilize my creative method.

I strongly recommend this book for anyone who is interested in the future of food service. Ferran Adria is on the cutting edge of food and I am grateful for his example and willingness to share his method.

James Beard once said; “Food is our common ground, a universal experience.”

One which I hope to improve as I continue my journey.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Sobriety (file under update)

So here it is the 24th of January and I have been away from the drink and other vices for 13 days. At first when I made the resolution to myself (again, like all my decisions in the past year) selfishly, I was unsure what to expect.

I had never spent thirteen days sober in my life. Since the age of 13 I had spent, for the most part, every weekend, and in fact many days, either drunk or drinking. I would not have classified myself as an alcoholic but quite possibly a drunk. For too many reasons that I could, but will not, get into right now, I had always found an excuse to drink.

Now on day 13 of this drying out period I have come to realize much about myself that can only be discovered through sober thought. I have found that I feel much better. That I am full of energy. That my thoughts are less manic and more directed. More assured and less paranoid about something I may have said or done the night before, or five minutes before for that matter.

Although I have been sick for the past nine days I can feel the difference in my body. The thought crossed my mind that perhaps I was sick because I stopped drinking. You see, the normal course of being for me, is that I never get sick. Maybe once every couple of years. However, that does not mean to me that I should pick up a bottle and start drinking in order to stave off illness.

I want to be clear that this was not a decision that was meant to alter the course of my life. It was a selfish decision by which, through sober thought, I wanted to rediscover myself, as a man, living my life the way I have chosen to.

The most important discovery I have made is that I do not require alcohol to have a good time. I have been out twice during this drying off period, once at a party and the other with dear friends with whom I usually would consume lots.

At the party people that were drinking copious amounts of alcohol surrounded me. I spent all night there and though tempted to have a drink I did not have one. I was proud of myself then and I am proud of myself now.

I believe the most valuable lesson that I have learned from this drying off period is that I am in control of my demons. I have the ability and the power to control my own deep-seated fears. I am, in effect, the boss of me. I no longer believe that I need to be drunk to have a good time. I now firmly believe that it is possible for me to drink a glass of wine or two and stop at that. And what’s more, I believe that I will do just that.

I prefer the clarity of mind that I have right now. And in fact that clarity has become a replacement for the haze that I used to exist in. I prefer the energy that I have now. While, as a good iris scoots man I never suffered from hangovers, I certainly could be pokey from time to time. I prefer not being pokey. I have read several books in the past few weeks. I have studied hard, worked hard and discovered what my real motivation is. Sounds crazy that all this could come from not drinking, but it has, and now on day 13, I know that 30 days will not be a problem and moreover that after 30 days I will adjust my attitude and behaviour towards alcohol. But I must say that I am sure from time to time I will tip the bottle but I will now stop myself where in the past I would or perhaps could not.

So two weeks down. I am feeling wonderful. Energized. Happy. Feeling like a grown man. Perhaps one of the best decisions I ever made.

Pythagoras once said; “Strength of mind rests in sobriety; for this keeps your reason unclouded by passion.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Friday, January 23, 2009

Happy Anniversary to Newbie 2 (file under has it really been a year)

So for the past few days (a week and a half really) I have been suffering from what would normally be a crippling flu. However, in true kitchen spirit I have made it to work everyday, in spite of the overwhelming desire to roll over, and have done my job to the best of my ability. This is something that I am extremely proud of. I showed up and continue to.

It is difficult to put into words the sense of achievement and joy that I have when I think of the past year. I went from knowing virtually nothing about a professional kitchen to working in one to now operating as the number two in a restaurant kitchen. To say that the past year has been surreal would be quite an understatement.

I have found in the past year a sense of who I am. Why I am here. And what I meant to do with my life. This intimate knowledge of myself has enriched the lives of those closest to me, not to mention raised the caliber of food that they have been eating.

Voraciously I have read every book that I could. Ranging in content from intellectual food knowledge to in depth kitchen jargon and techniques I have strived to expand my grasp of what I am doing each and every day. Looking back on all the knowledge that I have gleaned this year causes me to burst with pride as I realize that I truly have embraced who I am and where I am going.

At Reservation I was a contributor to the happiness of no less than 15,000 people during events and countless others during the brunch services that I worked. I also served no less than 5000 people while working my favorite station, the grill. My shortest week consisted of 36 paid hours and about another ten or twelve unpaid. While my busiest week was approximately 100 hours. My longest single shift without punching out, sleeping, or generally taking care of my body was 56 hours. 56 hours. That shift really cemented in my mind that I was cut out for this business.

I learned a lot about the logistical side of the business and made sure to pay careful attention to details that most people would not. I kept many of the function sheets that I participated in and kept detailed notes on what I did everyday at work. When I find some time in the near future I will do a tally and share it with you, I am quite certain that the results will shock even me.

I made new friends. Found new mentors. Lived every day with a smile on my face and came to realize that a dream is not some abstract thing. It is something that is lived everyday.

In short, this past year, for me, has been nothing short of amazing. This decision has strengthened the love that C and I share. It has reinvigorated me. So, let’s get ready for another great year of challenges, obstacles, success and triumph.

Antoine de Saint – Exupery once said; “As for the future, your task is not to foresee it, but to enable it.” And this is precisely what I am doing one day, one dish, one call, one chit at a time. Closer to forty and my dream realized.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Happy Anniversary to Newbie (file under has it really been a year)

Shana Alexander once wrote; “Evolution is fascinating to watch. To me it is the most interesting when one can observe the evolution of a single man.”

I have to admit, I am using every ounce of my strength to write this post right now. I have been extremely ill for the last few days but have found myself enjoying fully the power of Nyquil. So from behind the green haze I am sitting on C’s laptop and furiously pounding out this post, as I felt that the occasion deserved it.

What a long strange trip it has been. I believe that is how the expression goes. Tomorrow I will expand on this post and give you some of the nitty gritty, in terms of numbers, observations and personal thoughts.

Tonight, I guess I just wanted to mark the occasion. An occasion that I am extremely proud of. And I should be.

More than this though I wanted to thank all of you. For the fact that I know that there are people out there that are interested in what I am doing and how I am getting there. So to each and every one of you I say a humble thank you. THANK YOU!

This journey that I am on, that I have been capturing, in words, on this blog, has been one of the most exciting experiences of my life. In the coming year I expect that it will get even better. So hold on to your hats.

So I apologize that I am not feeling up to writing much more. But, tomorrow I will have some time after work to write some more posts. Believe me there is lots to express.

Francis Bacon once wrote; “It's not what we eat but what we digest that makes us strong; not what we gain but what we save that makes us rich; not what we read but what we remember that makes us learned; and not what we profess but what we practice that gives us integrity.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM