Some of the following may seem silly but given the week I had last week with both soups and specials I started considering the following;
What makes specials work?
I.e. Penne Arrabiata (which sold extremely well) vs. Risotto (which did not) vs. Quiche (extremely well)
What factors and variables come into play?
Is there (and this is important to me) a psychology to specials?
Is there a response to words used to describe beyond the obvious?
Are those words and descriptions emotive or sensory? Both? Neither?
Are there sets of ingredients that people are sure to respond to? I.e.. Truffle? Red Pepper? Certain Proteins?
Would 1 Special sold in different wording sell differently? Other than the language used everything else would be consistent.
What drives customer response?
Servers?
Dish?
Description?
Mood?
All of the above?
Is there any such thing as a sure seller?
Are customers generally aware of regional and seasonal variety?
Does presentation on the plate affect customer’s choices. I.e. a customer seeing a plate delivered to the next table? If so is there a way that the kitchen can capitalize upon it?
These are some of the questions that I am currently trying to answer.
In A Study in Scarlet Sherlock Holmes said; "From a drop of water," said the writer, "a logician could infer the possibility of an Atlantic or a Niagara without having seen or heard of one or the other. So all life is a great chain, the nature of which is known whenever we are shown a single link of it."
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
Monday, February 23, 2009
Apicius’ Roman Cookery Book (file under Nouvelle huh?)
Pliny once wrote of Apicius; " the most gluttonous gorger of all spendthrifts, established the view that the flamingo's tongue has a specially fine flavor." And I need to beg the question; who says he was wrong?
I imagine that my file under has you all a bit perplexed. Of course Nouvelle Cuisine came to us by way of Marin, Menon, Escoffier, Gault, Bocuse, Chapel, Troisgros Brothers, Guerard, Verge and Oliver as is observed by common consensus. However it would seem (though I do need further study) that much of what we term as nouvelle cuisine today is in fact the result of Apicius Roman Cookery Book which was written an astonishingly fifteen to sixteen hundred years ago.
The particular copy that I got my hands on (though I am sure by now Google has it on Google Books) is presented with the Latin version on the left side of the page and the English translation on the right.
I observed that some of the recipes seemed to be arcane (ah duh), silly or just plain unnecessary such as one which teaches how to turn red wine white. The first question that popped into my head is why would anyone assault a red wine with a recipe such as this?
Another recipe that struck me (perhaps because it reminded me of Garde Manger) was to turn bad honey into good honey. This is quite simply accomplished by heating two thirds of the bad honey with one third of the good honey. And according to the recipe “Voila” good honey. To me it is unclear whether this recipe is meant to be dishonest or as a means of eliciting further profit. Moreover, for me, it is hard to test the recipe as most honey today is prepared to avoid such spoilage.
He has numerous recipes for the preservation of meats, vegetables, fruits, etc. I am excited to try each and every one of them and to relay the results to you my loyal readers. He has numerous recipes for broths, soups and purees which I am curious to try. Specifically in the trying of these recipes I want to know about the texture resultant.
On page 149 of the copy I had is the recipe for Flamingo that Pliny is so bothered by. Interestingly to me was that there were recipes for snails and wombs. I’ve never had nor conceived of eating a womb (perhaps because of my consciousness) but it did make me wonder why there would be a recipe for it. Are people out there eating womb today? If so I would be curious to know how it is prepared and moreover if there is a ritualistic aspect to the use of the womb.
All in all I would suggest that anyone serious about food should at the very least peruse this book as it has some very interesting recipes. When I try them out I will let you know the result.
Plutarch once wrote; “The same intelligence is required to marshal an army in battle and to order a good dinner. The first must be as formidable as possible, the second as pleasant as possible, to the participants.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
I imagine that my file under has you all a bit perplexed. Of course Nouvelle Cuisine came to us by way of Marin, Menon, Escoffier, Gault, Bocuse, Chapel, Troisgros Brothers, Guerard, Verge and Oliver as is observed by common consensus. However it would seem (though I do need further study) that much of what we term as nouvelle cuisine today is in fact the result of Apicius Roman Cookery Book which was written an astonishingly fifteen to sixteen hundred years ago.
The particular copy that I got my hands on (though I am sure by now Google has it on Google Books) is presented with the Latin version on the left side of the page and the English translation on the right.
I observed that some of the recipes seemed to be arcane (ah duh), silly or just plain unnecessary such as one which teaches how to turn red wine white. The first question that popped into my head is why would anyone assault a red wine with a recipe such as this?
Another recipe that struck me (perhaps because it reminded me of Garde Manger) was to turn bad honey into good honey. This is quite simply accomplished by heating two thirds of the bad honey with one third of the good honey. And according to the recipe “Voila” good honey. To me it is unclear whether this recipe is meant to be dishonest or as a means of eliciting further profit. Moreover, for me, it is hard to test the recipe as most honey today is prepared to avoid such spoilage.
He has numerous recipes for the preservation of meats, vegetables, fruits, etc. I am excited to try each and every one of them and to relay the results to you my loyal readers. He has numerous recipes for broths, soups and purees which I am curious to try. Specifically in the trying of these recipes I want to know about the texture resultant.
On page 149 of the copy I had is the recipe for Flamingo that Pliny is so bothered by. Interestingly to me was that there were recipes for snails and wombs. I’ve never had nor conceived of eating a womb (perhaps because of my consciousness) but it did make me wonder why there would be a recipe for it. Are people out there eating womb today? If so I would be curious to know how it is prepared and moreover if there is a ritualistic aspect to the use of the womb.
All in all I would suggest that anyone serious about food should at the very least peruse this book as it has some very interesting recipes. When I try them out I will let you know the result.
Plutarch once wrote; “The same intelligence is required to marshal an army in battle and to order a good dinner. The first must be as formidable as possible, the second as pleasant as possible, to the participants.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
All work and no … Take 2 (File under A Passionate Life)
Kahil Gibran once wrote; “Work is love made visible. And if you cannot work with love but only with distaste, it is better that you should leave your work and sit at the gate of the temple and take alms of those who work with joy.” No more is this true than in the (if not a constant balmy 35 C) kitchens around the world.
I love what I do. I’m sure that I have said this numerous times. And I do not tire of saying it.
This past week I had some great successes at work with soups and specials. As I mentioned in a previous post, I have, by and large, taken over the role of the house soup maker. It is one of the great joys that I have each day (almost but not quite as joyful as waking up). On my way in I visualize what is in the walk in cooler of vegetables and start composing in my mind what soup I am going to make. And again, I credit C with giving me the desire to make delicious soups and in the past year and a bit I have become quite adept at making them.
Soup is a simple thing to make. But it can also be incredibly complex. I find that the more complexity I add to it, the more I compound the flavours, the more I build layers, the more tasty and enjoyable the soup is. I wrote another interesting post about this subject (http://newbieintheweeds.blogspot.com/2009/02/specials-soup-and-breakfast-file-under.html).
Last week I made a few interesting soups. I made a stunningly complex Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Bisque which was to die for. I also made a velvety Parsnip Puree and a Truffled Forest Mushroom Bisque. All 3 sold extremely well and two of them were almost down before dinner service.
In the same post listed above I spoke about the fact that I have started constructing specials that come off my station. I do so very much in the spirit of Garde Manger. In that I construct specials which utilize things that were already used in some way. Last weeks special that I ran was a Caramelized Onion and Pink Peppercorn Crusted Brie Quiche. In what I felt was a clever name I called it a Provencal Quiche. In many ways it was. But I don’t know if I would call it Provencal in the future. I made twelve of them and had sold ten at lunch. Highly successful special.
Quiche is not overly difficult to make and with care and attention you can make them with jut about anything you want. In making this quiche my responses on quality checks from customers were that it was; “delicious,” “excellent,” and “why is this not on the menu. IT SHOULD BE.” These were all comments by regulars and it made me feel great.
Today I made a Curried Coconut and Carrot Puree. As I was done work early I got to go out and enjoy my lunch while people were eating their meals. As the regulars have gotten used to my face I got some feedback on my soups and my specials and it felt great to know that they love what I am doing. One woman asked how I come up with things that I cook and I told her that while I am a voracious reader and acquirer of knowledge most of what I cook starts first with an ingredient in my head.
From that point I then use my palate databank and create from memory dishes that I believe will taste good. If in my mind that dish does not work than I believe that it probably will not work when it is brought into the real world. This sparked a conversation that made me feel great. She said that I must have a gift for a “memory palate,” as she (who comes in every day) has loved each and every one of my soups. Moreover that she has noticed a spectacular difference between the soups made now and those of a year ago.
Felt really good. I MEAN REALLY GOOD. Further confirmation that I am on the right path.
Walter Savage Landor once said; “A good cook is the peculiar gift of the gods. He must be a perfect creature from the brain to the palate, from the palate to the finger's end.”
And tomorrow is another day as I am only as good as the last plate I put out.
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
I love what I do. I’m sure that I have said this numerous times. And I do not tire of saying it.
This past week I had some great successes at work with soups and specials. As I mentioned in a previous post, I have, by and large, taken over the role of the house soup maker. It is one of the great joys that I have each day (almost but not quite as joyful as waking up). On my way in I visualize what is in the walk in cooler of vegetables and start composing in my mind what soup I am going to make. And again, I credit C with giving me the desire to make delicious soups and in the past year and a bit I have become quite adept at making them.
Soup is a simple thing to make. But it can also be incredibly complex. I find that the more complexity I add to it, the more I compound the flavours, the more I build layers, the more tasty and enjoyable the soup is. I wrote another interesting post about this subject (http://newbieintheweeds.blogspot.com/2009/02/specials-soup-and-breakfast-file-under.html).
Last week I made a few interesting soups. I made a stunningly complex Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Bisque which was to die for. I also made a velvety Parsnip Puree and a Truffled Forest Mushroom Bisque. All 3 sold extremely well and two of them were almost down before dinner service.
In the same post listed above I spoke about the fact that I have started constructing specials that come off my station. I do so very much in the spirit of Garde Manger. In that I construct specials which utilize things that were already used in some way. Last weeks special that I ran was a Caramelized Onion and Pink Peppercorn Crusted Brie Quiche. In what I felt was a clever name I called it a Provencal Quiche. In many ways it was. But I don’t know if I would call it Provencal in the future. I made twelve of them and had sold ten at lunch. Highly successful special.
Quiche is not overly difficult to make and with care and attention you can make them with jut about anything you want. In making this quiche my responses on quality checks from customers were that it was; “delicious,” “excellent,” and “why is this not on the menu. IT SHOULD BE.” These were all comments by regulars and it made me feel great.
Today I made a Curried Coconut and Carrot Puree. As I was done work early I got to go out and enjoy my lunch while people were eating their meals. As the regulars have gotten used to my face I got some feedback on my soups and my specials and it felt great to know that they love what I am doing. One woman asked how I come up with things that I cook and I told her that while I am a voracious reader and acquirer of knowledge most of what I cook starts first with an ingredient in my head.
From that point I then use my palate databank and create from memory dishes that I believe will taste good. If in my mind that dish does not work than I believe that it probably will not work when it is brought into the real world. This sparked a conversation that made me feel great. She said that I must have a gift for a “memory palate,” as she (who comes in every day) has loved each and every one of my soups. Moreover that she has noticed a spectacular difference between the soups made now and those of a year ago.
Felt really good. I MEAN REALLY GOOD. Further confirmation that I am on the right path.
Walter Savage Landor once said; “A good cook is the peculiar gift of the gods. He must be a perfect creature from the brain to the palate, from the palate to the finger's end.”
And tomorrow is another day as I am only as good as the last plate I put out.
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
All work and no… (File under A Passionate Life)
Pablo Picasso once said; “It is your work in life that is the ultimate seduction.” And man have I been seduced. I can’t understand what held me back all these years from doing something that I truly enjoy. Scratch that – from doing something that is so naturally imbued and ingrained in me. Something which has defined my life and so many of my memorable moments. I know I’ve said this before and I can assure you I will say it again.
In the past week I have spent a lot of time studying, learning and contemplating what it is I am doing. Why I am doing it? Where I want to go? And finally, how I am going to get there. But first lets talk about the last week at work.
It started a couple weeks ago when Chef and I had a conversation. It related to intellectual ability and a larger than life persona that can at times come off like ego. I listened intently as he said what he had to and for the first time in my life found myself NOT in defensive position but instead as a student listening to and admiring a teacher. One of the things that struck me was that he said he looked at me as if I was the Chef and I looked at him like he was the cook. I assured him that in no way is that true for me but I can do nothing about his world view (up to and including his view of me in that world).
This conversation left me confused. How do I correct that? How do I change the way that my teacher views me? I’m still short on answers. Then on the weekend there was an altercation with the General Manager in which I found myself (unnecessarily) defending Chef from attack and criticisms which were a) entirely inappropriate, b) inflammatory and finally c) UNCALLED FOR. You do not attack a Chef in the middle of service with pedantic accusations that are untrue and worse than that a reflection of your own mental state. So I stepped up and let him know that it was inappropriate (which in retrospect I should have left to Chef’s discretion) but it leads me to a larger point.
Without Reservation lacks the professional standard that I learned when I was at Reservation. This is not an attack, merely an observation. I am not saying that it is a bad place to be. But I would like to see the operation of the place become more professional. As an illustration (which relates to the above paragraph) the GM (in my opinion) is lazy, slovenly and a poor role model for the F.O.H. staff. He drinks on the job overtly, he handles staff issues in a heavy handed and inappropriate way and at any chance he gets attacks the kitchen. Clearly a case of removing the twig from your eye before you remove the log from theirs. To clarify the point, he refuses to run any food and when calling from the pass (as expeditor) constantly jumps bills and causes duress to the kitchen which then has to scramble in order to account for his actions. This is just one example.
It became so heated that I had to walk off the line for a moment as if I had stayed there it surely would have negatively reflected on my character. I can say that I did not swear or raise my voice. I merely stood up for my Chef. When I came back Chef let me know that I should not have walked off the line but that he understood why. Just don’t do it again. And I won’t.
After service rush was over the owner, GM, Chef and myself had a meeting and resolved our differences. I made sure to keep my mouth closed (as advised by Executive Chef at Reservation when I left). When the moment was right I made my comments and then excused myself after shaking hands with everyone in the room.
It is moments like this that give me complete clarity in terms of my direction. I need to be in a more professional atmosphere (which is a comment on the entire operation and not at all on Chef and the kitchen).
Moreover, I have been having issues with one of my coworkers who is also lazy or forgetful or both. I like him but I know for a fact that most of the time that he is at work he is getting paid to do nothing. It is less systematic laziness and more refined laziness. Refined in that if there is “nothing” to do that is a perception. However, in my experiences, THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO IN A KITCHEN. You could as example clean or do prep work (of which there is always an enormous amount). But he doesn’t. Twice last week I called him on it. In good humour of course but nonetheless, if I did, what he does, I would be reprimanded or worse, fired.
So that is all I am going to say in terms of my “bitch session” at work. The next post is going to cover the positive elements of the last week.
Teddy Roosevelt once said; “Far and away the best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.”
Enough said.
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
In the past week I have spent a lot of time studying, learning and contemplating what it is I am doing. Why I am doing it? Where I want to go? And finally, how I am going to get there. But first lets talk about the last week at work.
It started a couple weeks ago when Chef and I had a conversation. It related to intellectual ability and a larger than life persona that can at times come off like ego. I listened intently as he said what he had to and for the first time in my life found myself NOT in defensive position but instead as a student listening to and admiring a teacher. One of the things that struck me was that he said he looked at me as if I was the Chef and I looked at him like he was the cook. I assured him that in no way is that true for me but I can do nothing about his world view (up to and including his view of me in that world).
This conversation left me confused. How do I correct that? How do I change the way that my teacher views me? I’m still short on answers. Then on the weekend there was an altercation with the General Manager in which I found myself (unnecessarily) defending Chef from attack and criticisms which were a) entirely inappropriate, b) inflammatory and finally c) UNCALLED FOR. You do not attack a Chef in the middle of service with pedantic accusations that are untrue and worse than that a reflection of your own mental state. So I stepped up and let him know that it was inappropriate (which in retrospect I should have left to Chef’s discretion) but it leads me to a larger point.
Without Reservation lacks the professional standard that I learned when I was at Reservation. This is not an attack, merely an observation. I am not saying that it is a bad place to be. But I would like to see the operation of the place become more professional. As an illustration (which relates to the above paragraph) the GM (in my opinion) is lazy, slovenly and a poor role model for the F.O.H. staff. He drinks on the job overtly, he handles staff issues in a heavy handed and inappropriate way and at any chance he gets attacks the kitchen. Clearly a case of removing the twig from your eye before you remove the log from theirs. To clarify the point, he refuses to run any food and when calling from the pass (as expeditor) constantly jumps bills and causes duress to the kitchen which then has to scramble in order to account for his actions. This is just one example.
It became so heated that I had to walk off the line for a moment as if I had stayed there it surely would have negatively reflected on my character. I can say that I did not swear or raise my voice. I merely stood up for my Chef. When I came back Chef let me know that I should not have walked off the line but that he understood why. Just don’t do it again. And I won’t.
After service rush was over the owner, GM, Chef and myself had a meeting and resolved our differences. I made sure to keep my mouth closed (as advised by Executive Chef at Reservation when I left). When the moment was right I made my comments and then excused myself after shaking hands with everyone in the room.
It is moments like this that give me complete clarity in terms of my direction. I need to be in a more professional atmosphere (which is a comment on the entire operation and not at all on Chef and the kitchen).
Moreover, I have been having issues with one of my coworkers who is also lazy or forgetful or both. I like him but I know for a fact that most of the time that he is at work he is getting paid to do nothing. It is less systematic laziness and more refined laziness. Refined in that if there is “nothing” to do that is a perception. However, in my experiences, THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO IN A KITCHEN. You could as example clean or do prep work (of which there is always an enormous amount). But he doesn’t. Twice last week I called him on it. In good humour of course but nonetheless, if I did, what he does, I would be reprimanded or worse, fired.
So that is all I am going to say in terms of my “bitch session” at work. The next post is going to cover the positive elements of the last week.
Teddy Roosevelt once said; “Far and away the best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.”
Enough said.
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
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