Saturday, January 26, 2008

Reservation...

So it is now 12:29 am as I start this. I left work at midnight after making sure that the kitchen was thoroughly cleaned. However, I would not have been home yet had the car not been acting temper mental. It wouldn’t start this morning so I thought that she could use a good boot. Sure enough she is fit as a fiddle now.

It is so refreshing to get up in the morning and feel a sense of purpose, a direction, a reason for your life (other than my love C which of course goes without saying). Not only a reason for your life but an intuitive feel in and around the kitchen and the knowledge that common sense can in fact be good for something and in Reservations kitchen is in fact common.

I learned so much today that it is insane that I was able to keep it all. I did keep notes on a bog pad today but of course left it in Head Chef’s office. My day started out as I had suspected with a prep list and go figure as I had thought it started with finishing the Ravioli.

I had tried to make Ravioli a couple of times for C. It is quite a difficult task if you do not have the proper tools. However here I have the top of line rolling machine (hand cranked of course). I rolled out one sheet of dough at a time. Folded it in half, use rounds to create an indent so I could see it when I egg washed it. Insert filling after egg washing. Fold over, push out the air, and use a smaller round to press it firmly into place. Then take a larger round and centre it on the Ravioli giving you two defined circles. Not only did my Ravioli look great but they also tasted great and I got a compliment from the Chef in that he didn’t complain and kept using the ones I made. So all in all a good thing. Not only that but I came up with a better and more efficient way to prepare the filling to be inserted by rolling it into balls. Chef liked it and now I have created my own efficiencies. Talk about value added (cue my own raging laughter as I remember a day that meant something else).

What have we learned so far? Task and then, you guessed it, CLEAN. Wipe down and put away the roller, wipe down your station, put used inserts, etc into the dish pit and start the next task.

For me this involved a lengthy session of the different type of sauces (5 mother sauces in the French culinary sense). Every sauce is based in some way on these types of sauces, they are; Béchamel, Espagnol, Veloute, Hollandaise and of course Tomato, from these the world is opened to your palette and there are numerous variations (thousands to be sure).

After Head Chef (also referred to herein as Chef E) had explained these mother sauces he spent an inordinate amount of time explaining to me the method and madness of his stock, remoulage (sp?) and jus. Of course to the lay men or uninitiated a jus is just a “sauce” that gets put onto whatever and I have to admit that until today I was largely naïve as to the complexity and extreme care that is needed to create the perfect jus. In Reservation that jus is the most perfect flavour profile possible as it should be given that you’re looking at like $2 an ounce. Think about that for a minute… How much is store bought ketchup? Puts it into perspective doesn’t it!

Naturally, I respect both Exec Chef J and Head Chef E so I will not explain how they make their stock save to say that it has mire pois (ah duh), bones, water and other flavouring agents. I can however tell you that the stock I started today will take three days to turn into jus AND that for approximately 16 litres of that magnificent gold I will have to use approximately 200 litres of various wet. Did you catch that 200 turns into 16?

For the next few hours I was dutifully caught in task, chop, clean, task, chop and clean. It is so amazing. Then after chopping some hand cut fries for the saucier I came back to Chef and noticed some more prep that had to get done; Chop Parsley, Chives, Grate 4 year old Cheddar, slice Brie, Cheddar and various other cheeses, prepare an apple vinaigrette, and lo and behold there was a soup there. We had not started soup yet.

Head Chef looks at me and says; “Let’s go shopping!” A kitchen term for lets go into the fridge. Looking at the various array of vegetables Head Chef asks what I think. I looked around and proposed that we could do either a roasted red pepper soup (I think I was trying to impress him) or a butternut squash soup. He looked at me with a huge smile on his face and said; “Let’s get at it.” So naturally I had to peel the skin, cut into cubes, put onto a cooking sheet, added some maple and salt and then roasted it in the oven. This kitchen is regimented however; a good idea is clearly taken as such and can be incorporated.

After that I helped out the saucier by cutting his fries and blanching them. Damn they are so good with a little demi and some cheese. Call it 5 star Poutine but geez I might get fat (not likely but) though it tastes so damn good. While doing this the Saucier instructed me to pay attention to the Garde Manger station which naturally excited me but of course scared me. So much to learn. But of course it was exciting to be standing there and I even plated six deserts that were sent out to customers and one Foie. Me, I prepared and plated a Foie.

For those of you that don’t know Foie is one of the most sinful luxuries in the world. It is fattened duck liver which is so rich it is to die for. You can only have it in small portions (some people can do larger but not me). At any rate, the fact that I am in a kitchen that serves Foie, Sweet Breads and the like means that I truly did pick the right kitchen.

The famous American philosopher and poet George Santayana once said; “There is nothing to which men, while they have food and drink, cannot reconcile themselves.” I friends could not agree more.

Everyday when I arrive I am elated and every day when I leave I am beat tired but elated because I know that I have learned more both as a matter of fact and experientially that I will be able to put to good use for my own well being, that of my love, that of our families and friends. So stay tuned.

There is so much more to say but only so many hours in the day. I know you all would like to hear more but I really have to sleep, as I need to be in work, dressed, prepped and ready to go in less than eight hours. But fear not for there is always tomorrow.

Be inspired today and have fun in what you do!

SDM

Friday, January 25, 2008

What Shall I Be Called?

Never a dull moment to be sure.

A kitchen is a frenetic environment filled with what you (but not me) might consider a toss up between insanity and extreme.

I strongly believe that it takes a specific kind of person to work in a kitchen and especially to be a Chef. First off you need to be able to as I was told tonight have no self-esteem or at the very least be self-effacing. You need to be able to follow orders that are barked out so fast that even playing Nintendo Wii's mind games (Brain Buster or whatever they call it) could not possibly train you for and the ability to acknowledge you've messed up and ask for help. These are only the broad strokes.

The finer points require you to have the energy of a jackrabbit surrounded by a pack of rabid wolves. You need to be able to stand on your feet for hours on end (only twelve today for me plus two hours of travel). You need to process quickly and move faster...ALWAYS FASTER

It is imperative that you know the following expressions. They will be your bedrock and principle form of communication inside the kitchen;

Yes Chef!
No Chef!
I don't know Chef.
Coming Chef!
Thank you Chef!
Please Chef!
Can you show me Chef!
How is this Chef!

So on and so forth but you get the idea.

Also as a word of caution for anyone who is not totally freaked out of their mind yet. Anyone who watches certain TV personalities and thinks; "oh that's easy" or "I could do that" let me assure you it is nothing like you've seen on TV. I don't know if any of you are aware of this (read sarcasm here) but TV IS FAKE. It’s not real. It does not represent reality. It is merely an escapist fantasy.

Hell's Kitchen though entertaining does not accurately portray the happenings of a kitchen which does not take away from the fact that Gordon Ramsay is an extremely talented Michelin starred Chef.

So to my day. Again as I said last night I was assigned homework.

Prior to that it had been a long day that caused me to leave out the highpoint that I will share now.

I worked the line for a party (93 guests last night). I was on veg station. First we laid out the salad plates and soup bowls. 43 salads and 35 soups. Don't know what happened to the other people? Then we had to serve 43 steaks in various preparations from blue to well. Then we had approx 20 chicken and the rest were split between halibut and risotto. It was the most exhilarating experience of my life (well the first and last time I made love to C are more exhilarating but that goes without saying). It pushes you to a level that is difficult to endure and each course goes out (expedited by Exec Chef) in about seven minutes.

It is truly remarkable to be part of and it completely engrosses you.

Today started at about 11 am. Walked in and put on my Chef jacket and started to work right away. To this point I have not had to do a prep list because I have been acting as a utility but I'm pretty sure tomorrow I will have a prep list.

Started off easy enough, had to prepare a mire pois (celery, onion, leak and carrot). Easy enough to do especially when it is for stock, as you don't need to cut perfectly which is not the same as saying that it doesn't need to be uniformly done.

After that had a brief chat with Exec Chef about cold sauces that left me feeling as if I had not a clue but not because of anything he said. More something I felt, like in the time I was speaking he had forgotten more about cold sauces than I would ever know. But mentally I just too it as a challenge. Something to aspire to.

My preps today included as I've said the mire pois, then I had to skim the demi glaze (something I did about once an hour), from there it was ladling out the reduced veal stock and straining it. From there adding red wine and more water for the second rendering where as I learned today even more flavour comes out. All the while of course making sure that my station was prepared properly and then immaculately cleaned before moving on so as to prevent any cross contamination.

I then proceeded to lay out the salads for the working lunch that was happening. Just some greens with a nice vinaigrette and a potato salad while I watched Exec Chef and Chef A work on the sandwiches of roast beef and smoked turkey with roast veg.

From there it was roasting baby beets, pitting nicoise olives (which incidentally is particularly painful when you have tiny slices all over your hands. But again, I would not trade this culinary experience for anything as I truly am getting paid to learn. After that it was some more chopping, cleaning and general help.

But then (cue suspenseful music) the pasta machine came out. The roller that is. Chef J was working on some ravioli at which point Chef E said pay attention. Which I did. Anytime Chef E (or any Chef in a kitchen you are working says pay attention – better grab the pen from your sleeve and the notebook from your cargos and pay rapt attention. I watched as he rolled out the dough, egg washed, put the filling down, covered, pushed out the air, covered with a round, pushed out more air, then cut the ravioli pulling off the excess and patting down the edges. The whole process took him about three minutes. I then was thrown into the world of Ravioli making. I only got to make eight because we were wrapping it up but guess what I’ll be doing tomorrow as I’ve already prepared the filling for it. You guessed it…

Then I sliced some pancetta and baked it while I caramelized some shallots. Good times.

Another secret I learned today is how to eat on the fly. In the morning you pick at stuff while it is being prepared. In the afternoon you pick at some of the things being prepared for service and at night after service or near the end you are welcome to east whatever you want within reason (Damn I guess no Foie this week!) All in all I’m learning the ropes pretty quickly and each and every day for the rest of my life seems to be filled with surprise, excitement and you guessed it tightly controlled and organized chaos. What I have now termed the Ode to Fire!

Then after I had cleaned perfectly the prep side of the kitchen I was allowed to watch the ode to fire... It is incredible watching these people work... They are the type of people that you would see on the street and not even pay a second glance to (not for looks or anything like that) just regular folk.. But in the kitchen... They are kind of like Shakespeare’s description in the prologue of Henry V; “Oh for a muse of fire, that would ascend the brightest heaven of invention, a kingdom for a stage (the kitchen), princes to act (the Chefs) and monarchs to behold the swelling scene (the customers).”

After that I watched as we closed the kitchen down, scrubbed it to perfection. Right as it was almost done Chef E grabbed me and pulled me to the front of house to this point we had not had a chance for me to sign my employment contract or any of my relevant info. That took a couple of minutes and then Chef E spoke to me about knives. That tomorrow (today now… geez is it already that time and I’ve only been home twenty minutes) he would allow me to use all of his knives to find the ones that I am most comfortable with. Earlier in the day (I’m sure its because I’m a lefty) I had said to Exec Chef that I was not sure I liked one method of cutting and that I felt more comfortable trying to get it another way. He said there is no hard and fast rules just that the outcome needs to be the same. I’m sure I will get it no problem. So that is pretty exciting. Do any of you have any idea how expensive knives are? It is insane. But at the same time I guess that is how I make my bread and butter (aren’t I clever lol)

So as if that weren’t enough of a day... Chef E gave me an official title today. I am now the latest, greatest, inspired and ready to go Apprentice Cook in the history of Apprentice Cooks. Watch out Saucier, here I come (Soon anyway though Chef A has nothing to worry about).

Anthony Bourdain once said; "Bad food is made without pride, by cooks who have no pride, and no love. Bad food is made by Chefs who are indifferent, or who are trying to be everything to everybody, who are trying to please everyone ... Bad food is fake food ... food that shows fear and lack of confidence in people’s ability to discern or to make decisions about their lives. Food that’s too safe, too pasteurized, too healthy – it’s bad! There should be some risk, like unpasteurized cheese. Food is about rot, and decay, and fermentation….as much as it is also about freshness." Food truly is about experimentation and yes even traveling outside of those very safe comfort zones you’ve created. Start thinking about that. Why do you not like a certain food? Why are you afraid?

Sorry I could keep writing but I must go and do my homework. Stay tuned for the amazing adventures of Jan 25 of this newbie Apprentice Cook in the weeds and loving it.

SDM

By the way, I have decided that I am now going to call the restaurant for the purposes here Reserved! Anyone object?

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Second best day of my life (first being the day I met my future wife C)!

When its right its right and you know it. Every single bone in your body contributes to a full and complete knowledge that what you are doing is what you were destined to do. I was destined to be in a kitchen. I was destined to be surrounded by people who are passionate, energetic, hardworking & deep (which was a shock to me).

As I have entered the kitchen of the BH I have noticed much. Some which I share with you and some which I don't. I believe that there has to be a certain amount that stays within me.

This kitchen is the most amazing place I've ever been. I am consistently challenged and I am of the belief that I will be everyday for the rest of my life. Obviously as a newbie there is much that I need to learn that we might as well call the fundamentals. Those fundamentals involve even the most basic things; wash your hands, fold your rag, have multiple rags for different purposes, tie your apron, MAKE SURE THE TOP BUTTON OF YOUR CHEF JACKET IS DONE UP, make sure when walking behind someone that you say BEHIND; believe me this list could fill the next twenty pages so I will leave it at you get the point.

Which brings me to my next subject. I had mentioned the other night that I was taught how to cut. This cut is like a dice but about a fifth the size. It could be used for such things as a Mango Salsa. Watching Executive Chef, Chef and all the kitchen staff do this is one of the most incredible sights and it is truly something I not only aspire to but will work my ass off to get to. It is with such majesty and ease that they do it. However, currently, watching me do it is akin to a backyard hockey player as compared to Wayne Gretzky and in fact I'm not even as good as that backyard hockey player. But I try and try and try and try.

Today, I believe that I cut 50 or more shallots. Each time I would try to do it and one of the other Chefs would come by, pick it apart and look at me saying; "Its okay - That'll be for stock!" I heard that about six or seven times today before I myself started saying it. After the shallots I "graduated", by which I mean I still didn't get it right, to Onions! After numerous onions I was no closer but I did begin to get it. It will take months for me to perfect it. But once I do I will remember the day that I first started and how I got there.

Each time I'm tasked with something I am first shown the right way to do it. The right way incidentally is the Chefs way AND YOU BETTER DO IT RIGHT! After the onions I was tasked with cutting about 8 pounds of button mushroom. Sounds simple right! The shape of a button mushroom provides its own set of challenges. But after being shown by the Exec Chef how to do it I started off slow and by the end of it was getting much better. But again - I have a long way to go!

When I finished the mushrooms, Chef came over and gave me a very quick lesson. His manner is stern but fair. He looked directly at me and said what is wrong with this station right now. I looked perplexed but even if I didn't he was surely going to tell me the answer. "IT's MESSY, clean it up, always task, clean, task, clean, task, clean. Don't worry you'll get it!" I got it all right. For the rest of the day and indeed the rest of my days in the kitchen I will ensure that I am clean, organized and ready.

This brings me to my next point.

LABEL AND ORGANIZE! It is important to make sure that the stock you're putting away or risotto or whatever is saran wrapped and labeled properly with what it is and when it was made. LABEL & ORGANIZE. I got this lesson immediately. After all in a restaurant, especially a restaurant like this, the last thing you want is to make someone sick because you read January 23 when in fact it was December, 2001. Easy lesson really.

Chef told me that there is a recipe book and that it is to be adhered to and that you don't mess with the recipes without the prior approval of Chef. For instance changing out rosemary for tarragon. Or the like. Before throwing in anything make sure that it is appropriate in Chef's mind. As well on this note, before throwing anything out ask whether or not someone can use it.

Now when slicing meat with the slicer it is important to make sure that you cut with the lines of the meat and not against. That one was a pretty easy lesson too.

Also today I got to blanche a few things including gnocchi and I watched how it was made. I'm pretty sure that I will be making that soon. In a couple of weeks I figure that will be one of the first things I do with my day. Blanche, ice bath, strain, little bit of oil so they don't stick and then into the fridge.

What really moved me today was that I actually got to prepare something on the fire. I had to sweat the onions and then brown the beef. Insert flavour, season, taste, season, taste and then season and taste some more. It came out well and I got at least three nods of approval.

My homework tonight was cold sauces (and of course my journal which you are now reading). I've done some of the research into cold sauces but now am going to spend about another half an hour right now delving a little deeper.

As a final note, I work at BH in eight hour shifts for right now. However, today I spent about 11 hours in the kitchen. I punched in at my assigned time and punched out at my assigned time and will continue that way for quite some time. The way I see it I am being paid to learn. And just like University, the more you put in the more you get out and believe me I AM GOING TO GET LOTS. Before leaving I spoke to both Exec Chef and Chef and thanked them for this incredible opportunity. For believing in a 33 year old guy who has never worked in a professional kitchen and most of all for making me feel as if what I knew deep inside was right was actually right. As only Chef's of their calibre can they let me know that I was going to do just fine and I took that as a ringing endorsement of something beautiful that had begun.

Off to the homework I go... Stay tuned...

SDM

Update... The cutting term is Brunoise which means; is a method of food preparation in which the food item is first julienned and then turned 90° and diced again, producing cubes of a side length of about 3 mm on each side or less. Common items to be brunoised are leeks and carrots. The brunoise is often used as a garnish in many dishes. A common dish which often uses a brunoise as a garnish is a consommé. A brunoise must be very consistent in size and shape, as it helps to ultimately create a visual effect.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Welcome to your life...

I started at a great restaurant today. Lets call it BH. My first day ever in a professional kitchen. And quickly I realized that I was in for it AND that I was destined to love it. I had decided about three months ago that this was the direction that I should travel in. At first it was quite scary given that I am now 33 (then 32) and had no experience or training. But, as a result of a great friend, I had a door opened for me that I had to walk, no run, through.

It had started innocently enough with a long meet and greet with the Executive Head Chef and Head Chef. Both vetted me, asking me questions which I thought were odd at the time but I was more than happy to answer. Good thing I did because a short 72 hours later I was to start work.

Getting there early I had all kinds of thoughts running through my head. We had an event for 31 people starting at 6:30. It was 2 o'clock by the time I had walked through the door. Unsure of what I was to do I stood there frozen, both literally and proverbially. I was excited, scared, confused but SURE that this is where I was meant to be. After a few minutes L (not sure of his title ) came out and told me that I could get changed and put on my very first CHEF JACKET. Now as if that weren't cool enough I was thrust immediately into what it means to be in a professional kitchen.

First; Prepare everything so that you are ready to go. Clean up the mess and put the dishes near the pit. Cut the vegetables in their various forms depending on what you are doing. Tonight's menu consisted of;

Apps

Hot House Tomato Bruschetta
Antipasto Tarts with Stilton
Mini Quiche with Smoked Ham
Fried Shrimp Lollipops
Pulled Pork on a Pita

Literally the first couple of hours flew by. In the first couple I had to pull the pork and chop vegetables for the rest of the dishes. About an hour after starting Exec Chef came in and gave me a hearty handshake and asked how I was doing. How I was feeling? How the love of my life felt about this new beginning? It was more than just empty questions. It was a man trying to relate to another man that he appreciated him and as a result those around him. Just as quickly as he appeared he was gone.

I kept on bothering L with what must have seemed like a million questions. But each time with decided grace he would explain. At first if he was showing me something he would demonstrate and then watch carefully as I did it. If I did it wrong he would say to me how I was doing it wrong and how I could improve. I watched intently as he made a Cauliflower soup trying to pay careful attention to what the ingredients were and how they prepared it.

Exec Chef appeared again and noticed how I was using my knife. He stopped me and explained the proper position of the knife in the hand. How it was to be used and even taught me the first of what I'm sure is to be many expressions. I can't seem to spell it properly or find it online right now so I will let you all know later (Just another question for Chef). At any rate, after a few minutes of practicing I got it. He told me a few minutes later that buying a bag of onions and going to town can take you a long way. I guess you might call it homework.

So with all the preparations done L had been working on the two sauces that were going to be used for the mains. I learned that the mains were to be a Grain Fed Beef Tenderloin, Artic Char or a vegetarian Eggplant Parmesan. When the appropriate time came for Apps L and I started to assemble the dishes for presentation. Each plate went out with 18 canapes on it and each went out twice. I tasted everything and was extremely glad that I had put it out to the universe that I wanted into a good kitchen because I was rewarded with a GREAT kitchen.

Desert was Creme Brule with assorted berries and a biscotti. This of course brought a huge smile to my face as I had first attempted a creme over the holidays for the love of my life and her family.

So all in all, on this the first day of the rest of my life, I would have to say it was remarkable and absolutely the right place.

I learned today that patience is going to be key, an attention to detail that I probably would have sooner ascribed to fighter pilots than a kitchen, communication is paramount, cleanliness is Godliness and Everything, EVERYTHING, has a home and it should be there.

This is the first day of the rest of my life. And I am thrilled to be so fortunate as to have friends that help, a lover that is beyond a rock without whom none of this would be possible either and a feeling inside my soul which screams; "ITS ABOUT TIME YOU LISTENED... now you gotta run with it." And RUN I WILL.

SDM