Saturday, February 9, 2008

What a day!!!

Today was to put it bluntly... quite a day! I will post more tomorrow as I need some down time from my day! I hope you all had an inspired day and I will post today and tomorrow at night tomorrow. All the best!

SDM

A Little Rushed... (and maybe a little slow?)

So Reservation on this day was a little busy. Nothing we couldn’t handle of course but busy nonetheless. I did all of my usual prep and then was helping out the line with whatever they called out for.

It was my first taste (personal) of having to deliver quickly in order to keep the line running smoothly. Of course as a newbie I felt as if I was going a little too slow but reminded myself what Chef said; “It all comes in time.” After service was over I was out back having a smoke with A (The Saucier) and I apologized for my speed. He told me quite simply that I had nothing to apologize for as he can hardly remember the last time he had to yell out for so many things from the line. He said I did just fine which reassured me that I would get better.

I am feeling more and more as if I am part of the team at Reservation. Each week I learn more and more and I am getting far more comfortable in my skin there. I am excited, enthralled and loving what I’m doing.

Foe the first time in my life I know I am doing something for me. As a result I wake up everyday with a smile on my face and joy in my heart (though I am missing C incredibly). Her presence would be the only thing that could make life better right now BUT we all have journeys that we must go on AND I am one hundred percent supportive of her in her endeavours.

Thus, Saturday was another day filled with amazing experiences. I hope it was for you as well.

Mark Twain once said; “Part of the secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside.”

I hope you all have an inspired day!

SDM

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Take Two of a Cooks’ Snow Day

It has been at least a decade since Toronto has seen snow like it has been getting lately. Last night the North Pole visited our fine city again and dropped at least seven or eight inches making getting to work a very ‘fun’ (read pain in the ass) experience. Usually getting to work by the Streetcar should take about an hour. If I am fortunate enough to be driving (today I had no choice) it should take about twenty minutes. Well I guess the memo to Toronto drivers (read invading 905ers’ and beyond) didn’t get out. I was to punch in at 10 (though start at 9 as part of my learning experience which I’ve explained earlier.) as such I left my house at 8:10 thinking I would have more than enough time to get there for 9. Wishful thinking I assure you. It was my worst Sunday nightmare come true on a Wednesday. I got there as fast as I could. 9:21. Don’t get me wrong. I love the snow and I love Toronto. But I don’t love the invading hordes more marauding than Ghengis Khan and Hannibal combined. And yet I smiled. Which shocked everyone that saw my face driving and singing to Lauryn Hill.

Of course when I got there there was no parking and I read this as an indication of the day to come. Finally after moving my car a second time and paying another four bucks Chef told me that I could park in the Green P on the premises for a $10 max for fourteen hours. Done and done. But it did let me sneak in a smoke (only three today).

How did my day start? Bueller, Bueller! Naturally with draining and straining the stock, putting it into 16 litre pails, covering, label and organizing and then putting in the fridge. The other day I had let the pails sit out for a few minutes and Head Chef ran (not really running as it is ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN in the kitchen) by and explained to me why we put it away right away. BACTERIA growth and our success to keep bacteria at bay. Easy enough lesson to learn and one that only needs to be explained once. This applies to all food. Not just stock. Don’t ever leave anything out AND definitely make sure that you mark what it is, what the date was and then put it away.

Today was the first day I didn’t really ask anyone what to do. Common sense, which is by no means common, dictated that I start getting the Mise ready for everyone on the line. As such I roasted an entire bus pan of beets. Peeled the carrots. Cut potatoes in three different ways with three different varieties. Naturally there was the Yukon Gold for the hand cut (my hand) French fries, Russets for gauffrettes and Fingerlings for rounds. Two of those starches are used by the Saucier and J who is the Entremetier uses the other.

This is a good time to explain the stations of a professional kitchen. Essentially you have the Executive Chef, then the Head Chef. These two positions are pretty self-explanatory. Then you have the Saucier (A in our kitchen). The Saucier in our kitchen is responsible for prepping all the meats, trimming, carving and creating the proper portion sizes. He is also responsible for preparing the sauces, grilling the meats and final plating along with Head Chef. In the absence of Head Chef and Exec it is he who runs the line. A is in his middle twenties and at the top of his game. He is about to go on another stage (10 days or so from now, maybe even less) at a fabulous restaurant in Oxford, England. After him you have the Poissonier (D in our kitchen). It is his job as the name suggests to butcher the fish, prepare it and then serve it. After him you have J who is the Entremetier who is responsible for all hot apps, soups, vegetables and starches. Finally in our kitchen you have S (a woman from Korea) who is the Garde Manger, it is her duty to prepare all the salads, cold apps and deserts. This team is amazing and very good at what they do. It is quite a spectacle to behold. And if you have the option to see a professional brigade at work you should. They are lighting fast and laser accurate. Think of SEALS, RANGERS, MOSSAD, GHURKAS or any other special force in the world.

I then had to vacuum pack various items including duck that our Saucier had just prepared and package it in units of ten. The Poissonier finished portioning some fish (Mon Fish, Salmon, Grouper) along with the help of SH who is one of the cooks at our sister restaurant. I had to pack away 3 different type of fish. I then vac packed the jus that I had completed last week and put it away for safe keeping in the walk in freezer. I learned another lesson on that note tonight. Do not lose any of the jus.

It literally is a sheeny black gold. I lost about a litre tonight as the vac pack seal did not hold. It put me in a pretty low mood for a bit as I know how valuable it is to Chef and in hard currency. I did apologize profusely. The problem was that I didn’t remove the spacer boards and as such the jus flowed over and spilled covering a good sixth of an inch of the vac pack machine. Good times, really! I told Head Chef that I owe him a few beers when the opportunity next avails itself.

I was scheduled to work until 8 tonight and as I mentioned earlier I got my snow day. I punched out at 7:48. AND I forgot to sign the sign out sheet. I was just excited to get home and write about my day I suppose. I realized it after I was about five minutes away. No big loss.

Exec Chef loaned me another of his books for my day off tomorrow. It is In Search of Perfection by Heston Blumenthal. Though he did tell me to just look at it and not get to deeply into it. This plays on a component of our conversation last night in which he cautioned me from only devoting myself to this. A wise man; Exec Chef said that I need to devote time to my other passions (here is one obviously) but he made it clear that it had to be separate from the kitchen and with as much enthusiasm. He explained that eventually I will have to put the other on the back burner but for now it is important so that my head stays in the game. I understood what he was saying on numerous levels.

Another one of the fantastic benefits of chasing my dream is that it has caused me to start looking at myself, inwardly and those around me. It has helped me to start questioning certain things and to start writing again. A passionate soulful writing that is directly related to me as opposed to the world around me. It feels wonderful and it is a great legacy to hand to my children so they can see how I became the man I became.

None of this would have been possible without my family. Directly the love of my life C who has been an unconditional supporter of mine (which at times has been beyond hard she must be an angel, certainly mine). A constant source of inspiration and a graceful source of sage like wisdom. Her family, my family and my closest friends and you know who you are (who are part of my family of course). I thank you all for your guidance, your support, your love, your criticism but most of all your continued faith in me. I will show you all that you were right in more ways than one. I love you all! I value you and hope that some day I can repay your unfettered kindness.

J.R.R. Tolkien once said; “If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

Which brings me to another point. As I studied Political Science and History while at University I’ve often wondered how much depends on the meals they (you know the marble halls and mahogany desk types) eat. I heard someone else say that the other day and I laughed as I thought I was the only one to think about that. I mean really, if Khrushchev and Kennedy had eaten a horrible meal in Vienna would I be writing this at this very moment? Would mushroom clouds have filled the sky because the Carbonara or Thermador was cooked incorrectly? Or if Kissinger had sat down a little earlier over some great French meal with the Vietnamese would less Americans have died? Pardon the pun but it truly is food for thought!

I hope you had a day filled with wonder and delight and make tomorrow an inspired day in your own personal pursuit of excellence.

Bonne Journee et a la Prochaine!

SDM

Industry Function

Today was an extremely busy day. Started off with receiving and stock, remi and demi of course. Then we had to prepare for an 800-person industry function. We were serving a Lobster Trio of Lobster Carbonara, Lobster Salad and Lobster Wellington.

In order to prep for it we had to chop up fresh lobsters, herbs, I brunoised shallots (I’m getting better), and all sorts of other items. The prep took about six hours and we cooked a la minute at the event. At one point I had to run over to one of the sister restaurants to pick up the Robocoup (think Cuisanart but industrial strength). Decked out in my whites and walking with purpose it was as if I was floating. A young lady, maybe 25 was walking by and shot me the biggest smile in the world. I continued about my task and as I was turning the corner I noticed that she was still there just starring and smiling. I bring this up only to illustrate that as I am living my dream, doing EXACTLY what I want with my life people notice and I think that it makes them smile. It felt good to have that happen (and I know that it happens for C all the time).

Right before the event started everyone was asked to leave so that they could take pictures. We all went outside for a smoke and I got to pick Exec Chefs brain about various things. One was the state of the restaurant industry in North America compared to Europe. This led to a discussion of Raymond Blanc and also women in the industry. I had said that I noticed there were not a lot of women in the industry and asked why. He noted that I was correct but then said that the ones that were there were in many respects FAR superior to men. One woman in particular came up; Sophie Pic and her restaurant Pic in Valence. I only briefly got to look her up tonight (http://www.pic-valence.com/hotel-restaurant-valence-en/restaurant-pic.htm) but I will spend more time researching her. Women it would seem are much more natural and intuitive at plating. And this is something that I want to become AMAZING at.

The venue was gorgeous. I mean really gorgeous. It was decorated in bright yellow, orange and red. Flowers everywhere. Our station was on the back wall right near the bar and naturally it was small compared to where we usually cook. It was an incredible event. I actually got to cook the pasta several times and it made me feel awesome. I learned the proper way to do it by watching Exec Chef and Head Chef do it a few times. Then in their absence I started one. When Exec Chef came back in we discussed the best way to prepare the dish and I continued to make it for the rest for the event. I also got to enjoy a fantastic glass of wine with Exec Chef and the front of house manager and one of the owners. It was a Cullen (http://www.cullenwines.com.au/) and it was OHHHHH so delicious. It went down smoothly and felt well, downright decadent. The only thing that would have made it better was if C had been there to share it with me as well.

Head Chef also drilled into my head that any mess at a function is ‘negative.’ By putting it that way I immediately got it and did my best to make sure that the presentation table was always clean.

Also I got my first knife yesterday (well second as Exec Chef had given me a knife on Saturday). I am the proud owner of a Mac SA-70 (http://www.macknife.com/superior.html). I used it to brunoise my shallots and I guess the excitement of having a new knife made me better at it. Or maybe it was because I’ve been practicing and am determined to get it down.

At any rate it was a very exciting day for me. No new cuts which is always a plus. I do have a horrible blister on my foot though. I will spare you pictures of it but I figure it is from switching between my Burks and my Blundstones, well that and standing all day everyday.

Again, I need to state that I am living my dream. I am doing exactly what I want to do with my life and my happiness is apparent to everyone that sees me. I have noticed that everyone looks at me now. I can only imagine what goes through their minds. But in mine all I am thinking is this is what I was born to do. That said I am reminded of the line from Pretty Woman; “Welcome to Hollywood! What’s your dream, everyone’s got a dream, what’s your dream?”

What is your dream? Are you living it? If so, FANTASTIC? If not, WHY? Life is too short to be doing anything other than what you truly want to do. And once you are doing exactly what you want to do your entire life changes in an instant. HAPPINESS is no longer something that you seek; it is something that you exude. So I truly hope that each and every one of you identifies your dream and finds a way to live it. It may not be easy but what in life worth having is?

Fran Lebowitz once said; “Vegetables are interesting but lack a sense of purpose when unaccompanied by a good cut of meat.” How very true!

Seek your dream and then let your life shine. I hope you all have an inspired tomorrow and a wonderful tonight.

A la prochaine.

SDM

Monday, February 4, 2008

Terms Learned (January 28 – February 4)

Aiguillette;

French name for long (skinny) fillets taken from the side of the breast of poultry (usually duck) and other game birds.

Quenelle;

Spiced meat dumpling (or fish bound with eggs and fat). Molded into egg or sausage shape and then poached. Most common is veal and is a specialty of Lyon. Usually an entrée served au gratin or with sauce or both. If a small quenelle it can be used as a garnish. Can also be added to salpicons and ragouts, croustades or even vol-au-vent. The name is of German derivation.

Vin Santo;

Dessert Wine or ‘Holy Wine’ from Tuscany and usually made of Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. Although some common varietals like Pinot Gris, Blanc and Chardonnay are possible. It is a labour intensive wine to make as the proper aging of the grapes (hanging from rafters) is at least three years. Colouration varies from Amber to Rose.

Fondant;

Syrup cooked to “softball” then worked until thick and opaque. It is then kneaded until smooth and white.

Beatilles;

Old French term for ingredient that are small (example brunoise, Minute Foie Gras or Sweetbreads)

Boulanger;

In 1765 he became the first restaurateur of Paris. As he did not have the right credentials he was only allowed to serve drinks and broths. Bu using his cunning and the law in his first year he served sheep’s feet in a white sauce and overcame the ‘caterers union’ credentials. It literally translates to baker.

A La Boulangere;

Dishes baked in the oven; Lamb or fish served with potatoes, onions, possibly butter. Prior to the advent of the household oven it was common to use communal ovens hence the term.

Papillote;

Decoration (think lace doily) to garnish the tips of the bones of lamb, chicken or veal chop. (Example; En Papillote is to wrap in parchment paper or tin foil and then cook) It is usually prepared with onions and herbs. The wrapping puffs up and is served rapidly before the casing collapses. Can also be candy. Probably derived from the French for Butterfly (Papillion).

Matelote;

Aromatic fish stew made with wine. Usually freshwater fish (eel) but could be Trout or Cod for example. Standard fair in Languedoc, Loire and Rhone regions of France. All are garnished with onions, mushrooms and bacon.

Bourride;

Provencal soup (Fish). Broth is strained then bound with Aioli. Most commonly made with monkfish but can be substituted.

A La Meuniere;

Method used to cook all kinds of fish in which it is lightly floured, from which it gets its name (Miller Wife) then fried in butter. Lots of ingredients can be prepared this way.

Cocotte;

Two handed fitted lid round or oval pan. It is used to slow cook such as with braising. Originated in the 1800’s and was typically cast iron (now there are a number or different ways these are made) Any good heat conductor can be used today.

Sauterne;

White wine from Bordeaux. Most famous is Chateau d’Yquem. Should be served at the end of meal with fruit or dessert – Could also go with blue cheese.

Panache;

Two drinks equally mixed. Usually lemonade (think the one from Sal Pellegrino) with Beer. In cooking it means two or more ingredients with different shapes, flavour or colour.

Rouelle;

Thick slice of round veal from leg. Roasted or braised. Think of shank with Osso Bucco.

Mange – Tout;

A snow or sugar pea. French for “Eat all.”

Hermitage;

Red and white wines coming from the slopes above Tain-Hermitage on the left bank of the Rhone. First rate wines.

Courgette (zucchini);

Usually eaten young, great edible skin. Range in size from flower intact baby to much larger and in a variety of shapes.

Carre;

High fat (45% or more) soft pasteurized cheese coming from Lorraine and Champagne. Can also be Normandy Cheese in the same family as Bondard.

Cassolette;

Porcelain, short handled, small container used to serve h’ors d’oeuvre, cold pudding or hot entrees. Can also be a dish of all kinds of salpicons or ragouts bound with white or brown sauce. Can also be sweet.

Duxelles;

Shallot, Onion & Mushrooms sautéed in butter predominantly used as a garnish or stuffing.

Ceps;

Boletus mushroom that resembles a tree trunk – the Italians would call them Porcini. There are more than a couple dozen edible varieties.

Bordeaux (Penny – Bun in England) and Pine Cep are highly valued by the gastronomic community. Always better when young

Ballotine;

Hot or cold dish (Poultry, Game Birds or Fish) in Aspic. It is rolled and stuffed then tied in cheesecloth.

Acidulate;

Turn a dish or liquid slightly acid, piquant or tart by adding vinegar, lemon or unripe fruit juice. Can also mean adding a little lemon to sour cream or fresh.

William Pear;

Good for cooking, as it is juicy, fragrant and sweet,

Sainte – Emilion;

On the right side of the Gironde River. Gorgeous town known for its red wines. Stringent classifications standards and is completed every 10 years. Most famous are Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Mainly made from Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Great aging and well concentrated full-bodied wine.

Civet;

Game stew (Rabbit, Wild Boar, Venison) with red wine thickened with blood, onions and bacon. Name comes from Cive (scallion). Some fish and seafood dishes also called Civet. In the provincial areas can be made with giblets of game birds or squirrel.

Coulson, Francis;

Armed with his mothers’ recipes he started serving proper English Tea at the Sharrow Bay Country House Hotel in 1949. There is not much info about him on the net so I will have to do so more digging.

Roux, Albert and Michel;

French born restaurateurs working in Britain. La Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/) is their three Michelin star restaurant. They are widely given regard for reinventing restaurant service in Britain and most UK chefs consider them the most influential chefs in the country. Michel’s son Michel Jr. is also a two-starred Michelin chef who currently runs La Gavroche.

Smith, George Perry;

Long before the Roux brothers had come to England George Perry - Smith (he added the hyphen to his name as an adult) had been revolutionizing the way that people looked at food. His most famous restaurant was called The Hole in the Wall and was in Bath, England. A true thinker he combined classical with interpretation and the world rejoiced. Sadly he is no longer with us.

As you all can see I am learning the most wonderful things from two great teachers. But it is not limited to just Exec Chef and Head Chef. In fact their entire brigade is also taking the time to teach me things on a daily basis and it is gratefully appreciated. I am also learning about life through Reservation and though the hours are long and sometimes difficult I would not be happy anywhere other than where I am.

Albert Schweitzer once said; “I don't know what your destiny will be, but one thing I do know: the only ones among you who will be really happy are those who have sought and found how to serve.” Man am I HAPPY! Hope you all are happy to.

Have an inspired tomorrow and live, love and laugh for you never know.

All the best.

SDM

Cuts from Week Two





The first is a picture of a finger condom. The next are just a few of the many cuts I've gotten in the first weeks at Reservation. I've bled profusely, healed, bled some more and on this my day off am trying to heal some more. Both Exec and Head Chef have told me that in time it will happen less frequently and be less painful. Truth be told. I don't really focus on the pain. I focus on the dream that I am living.

Pics from my first week at Reservation






The first pic is what I wore to the Friday interview with Exec Chef and Head Chef. The next are cuts from my first week on the job. Yummy. Ahh the life of a cook and the hands to how for it. The last is the Girardet book that Exec Chef loaned me.

Brunch (Smiles are Free)

As I arrived at work I was a little tired (as I had stayed for a couple drinks after work) however I did not feel it and it did not show. Clearly the conversations had with Exec Chef, Head Chef and the Saucier had made me feel pretty good and as I have been working at Reservation I have not found myself tired in the least. In fact I am bubbling over with energy and feel as if a Super Nova has exploded within me. Or at least a Foie Gras with Petit Brioche.

So I set up for the brunch that includes fresh made waffles, roast beef, pea meal bacon, pasta, eggs, omelettes, pierogis, potatoes, French toast, bacon, sausage, pasta, smoked salmon and all kinds of other things. It truly is a luxurious spread that might have been served to the Kings and Queens of yester year while the peasants were eating dirt.

Sure enough I had been put on the carving/waffle station but as we were understaffed yesterday I also was making some omelettes. I only made ten or twelve but as I made them each one got better and better. At the meat station I learned that I needed to cut the meat straight otherwise you are putting too much meat on the plate. You want to try and add balance to the plate and make sure that you cut thinly as well. This was fairly easy given the new carving knife that Exec Chef had given me and I also got to borrow his carving knife for the pea meal as you never want cross contamination. It was a great present to receive and it worked like the roast beef was butter.

I learned that it is important for you to speak up with your ideas in the kitchen. There absolutely is a way to do things in our kitchen but there may be a better way to plate something or to tweak a flavour. Even if your idea gets shot down it is an illustration of your passion for food and will always be well received. Even a newbie like me can add something.

While doing my duties in the front of house on several occasions people noted my broad smile and asked what was up. I would always answer that I am exceptionally well and why wouldn’t I be as I am living my dream, doing exactly what it is I want for my life. One woman said to me that it shows that I am happy because I am shining both inside and out. I haven’t heard something like that in a while and it was just another reassurance that I am in the right place. Yet another woman who had not been smiling had a massive smile come across her face and said that it was refreshing to hear that in this day and age. She came back a couple times just to see my smile. Yet another older lady was doing something for Shrove Tuesday for the office and wanted to know a few things. I answered her questions and then told her that a great resource for all things food is www.epicurious.com. She was going to do waffles and some crepes. I asked if she wanted savoury or sweet to which she said sweet. I suggested to her that she might want to rock convention and go with a savoury crepe scented with rosemary, sage or chive with a nice cheese sauce or clarified butter. For the sweet I recommended a peaces and cream with scent of cinnamon. She laughed and thanked me profusely three times and the again as she left.

By the way for any of you Jazz enthusiasts out there (I LOVES MY JAZZ!!!!) Reservation has live Jazz on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. During brunch it is a great treat for me because most of the people there are not jazz fans (perhaps more correctly enthusiasts because really how can you not like jazz). But I always ask Mr. DH if he could play me a few tunes and I tell him what they are. Sure enough he does and he smiles because I am so into Jazz and some of the songs I pick are obscure.

While the brunch was slowing down my prep master L and I started having a conversation about the world and the way that things work. He was asking me some questions about geopolitics and how certain things happen. I was happy to explain it to him and for every question I answered he would have another question. It was nice that my intellectual savvy (and what I went to University for) with regard to world events could help to broaden someone else’s point of view and understanding of world events. Just another thing to add the; “What is I am living my dream finally, Alex?”

After brunch we of course had to break everything down which took about an hour. After which it was time for an extremely messy job (under the category but someone’s got to do it) of scrubbing, pressure washing, sweeping and mopping the front line. It is an exacting and time-consuming process not to mention dirty. But it must get done and I see it all as part of the learning experience that is making me a better cook and a better man.

Before Exec Chef had left for the day I asked if he could loan me another book that I will ravenously rip through tomorrow. He loaned me Raymond Blanc’s Recipes from Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons. For those of you who are unaware Raymond Blanc (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Blanc ) He is a true visionary and a master. His Michelin stars speak for themselves and his restaurants are among the most frequented by those in the know. I can hardly wait to read it tomorrow, making my notes, perhaps sipping a red wine and laughing at myself that it had taken so long for me to jump into a kitchen.

Steven Wright once said; “"I went to a restaurant that serves 'Breakfast at any time’. So I ordered French Toast during the Renaissance." I think that I would have Cake during the French Revolution or perhaps Tripe during the Russian Revolution or finally perhaps a Cubana during the Cuban Revolution. What would you order?

I hope you have an inspired today and an awesome tomorrow.

SDM