Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Oui Chef




Food in History by Reay Tannahill (file under books one must read if serious about food)

Reay Tannahill has an interesting approach to the subject of food as it relates to history. She goes back to the beginning of time and examines the relationship between food and people.

Some of the interesting points that she caused me (a true student of history) to examine include;

The genetic difference between men and women that made men better hunters while women were better gatherers. It appears that men have a natural ability to judge distance and to accurately throw something at a target where as women have a keener sense of hearing and can see better in the dark. She posits that there is a genetic difference that caused this development.

She points to evidence that seems to suggest that Neanderthal humans knew that animal protein tasted better when the kill was not anticipated by the animal. This is something we know to be absolutely true today as if an animal senses its impending demise it releases a furious mix of chemicals that affect the meat.

Tannahill also points out that everything we know about survival today is in fact based on ancient knowledge that has always been with us. In fact she claims that it goes back to our earliest development and further that the science of the 19th and 20th centuries has helped identify some of these ancient principles. Moreover that these principles were frustrated only by a lack of the technology that enabled them (much as was the case with Leonardo Da Vinci with Helicopters and Submarines).

She points out that the bow and arrow was just as important to the development of mankind as gunpowder was and gives the most understandable reason for it. Prior to the bow and arrow mankind hunted with spears or harpoons. Each of these weapons took time to make and required a sure shot lest the weapon be lost. However with the advent of the bow and arrow, hunters were free to carry more weapons (multiple arrows) and the construction of the arrow was not as time consuming and thus allowed the hunter to take shots that in the past he may not have taken.

Tannahill shows the two theories of the development of fire (Africa circa 1,400,000 BC or Asia circa 500,000 BC). Prior to the intentional use of fire all protein was eaten raw and could have negative effects on the human body. But once fire developed and could be used as a tool by mankind it was not long before shells and the like were being used as pots as were the stomach of kills used as a vessel with which to cook. Cooking increases the release of protein and carbohydrates and helps to break down fibre. Once harnessed the flame enabled mankind to grow stronger, faster and live longer due to the increase in health benefit of no longer eating meat raw.

One of the things that I started to ask myself related to the advent of culture. Once there was a shift away from the single-family unit to a more community based system. How did this shift affect culture? Can the rise of humanity living the way it does now be traced back to fire and the many uses it has?

We take most of the things that we do each day for granted but imagine for a moment that one day you had to eat a fish raw (and not like sushi either) but then the next day could cook it. What affect would that have on you as a person? What affect would it have on your family? How would it affect your mobility? And your desire to move?

Each of the things that I’ve just spoken about took place between (according to scientific theories currently explored) 1,400,000 and 10,000 BC. That is very important as we have a very skewed understanding of not only humanity but of cultural development. As I’m sure she is going to point out what happened with the shift to communal culture? What was the affect on our food consumption? What was the major diet shift? What does it mean today as we look back to then?

I’m thinking specifically of the great ancient empires. What of Egypt? How did that culture come into being the most powerful? I’m positive that food and the access to it in abundance had something to do with it. The Bible even gives us some understanding with regard to food production and consumption in the post Egyptian era. But what does it all mean in terms of food development? What was the affect on our taste buds? On our health? On our internal organs? On our BRAINS?

These are just some of the things going through my mind right now as I read this book.

Epicurus once said; “Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for.” Food for thought.

Dream inspired. Be wild; fill your soul with intention and delight. Be you and soar.

A la Prochaine

SDM

Destined for Greatness (file under One Step at a Time)

So I’ve now been at my dream for the past three months and I have learned so much. As you’ve seen and experienced with me I have completely immersed myself in something that is so incredible at times I need to give my head a shake. As always, without love, my beautiful and talented C, I would not have had the strength, courage or ability to go after my dream. You are a true companion, partner, confidant and best friend. Thank you for everything my love. You are the penultimate of all that is right, just, beautiful and wise in this world.

I have stated in an earlier post that it was my fervent desire (read goal) to make it to the line by May of this year. I want to be Garde Manger so bad I can taste it (pardon the pun). Yesterday, after seeing the new menu specs and going through them with the team it seemed obvious to me that this was an unrealistic goal. Unrealistic in that Executive Chef and Head Chef have taken a huge chance on me. They are imbuing in me a classical culinary education while at the same time paying me to work. When we first sat down at that fateful meeting they laid out to me what the next couple of years would look like. Excitedly I forgot to take into account a few things in making my goal. That said I now realize that I will not make it to Garde Manger until fall.

Yet in that time I will get some needed experience in our sister restaurants kitchen as well as when the patio opens I will be working those as well. You see, it doesn’t matter sometimes how badly you want something. What matters is that you allow time and experience to develop you into what you want to become. Hard work, patience, practice, all of these things are the cornerstone of anyone who is serious about what they are doing.

At first, when I came to this realization I was a little upset. Not with them and not with myself. More that I had not accurately been able to analyze my growth and myself. Which is not to say that my growth has not been great because it has. Executive Chef pointed out to me that my advancement in my short time there has been great and widely noticed. Moreover, he made it quite clear that in the arrangement we have (my words not his) that he does not want to do anything that would stifle my love, my passion or my ability to be a great Chef. It does not serve him nor Reservation if I get to the line prematurely and can’t handle the heat (thus getting out of the kitchen). He assured me that I would get to the line and that it would be when it was not a time that could crush me. He said that in the fall I would get closer to the line and be able to start my formal line training.

Thus, that means that I need to double and redouble my efforts. I need to continue working on my prep skills, knife skills and all around knowledge. I am taking this opportunity to look within myself and set goals that are workable for me. The end goal is to own my own restaurant by the time I am forty. No small feat I assure you. It is also a stated goal for me to make Saucier within two years. The next natural stage in development at that point is to become Chef De Cuisine or Chef De Partie.

I also spoke with Head Chef about my realization. He calmed my fears which he could see written on my face and let me know that I was doing everything well. That my development was plain to see and that my enthusiasm is infectious. I ask you, how do you feel, is my enthusiasm infectious. I believe it is. He also said that consistency was something that I need to strive towards, with my stock, my cuts, etc. Consistency is the mark of a true professional.

I’ve grown a lot as a man in the past three months. I’ve learned about myself and my position within the world. Where I was once confused and scared I am now certain and laser focused. Of course, life is filled with ups and downs but now my life seems to be filled with far more ups. I get excited, like a child on Christmas morning, each time I get a new knife, each time I learn a new skill, each time I gain some knowledge and insight into the kitchen, an ingredient, a mentor, the past and the future and in fact am giddy like a school child on the first day of school every time I walk into the kitchen.

I have already started working on what my restaurant will be. I am creating pictures in my mind of what it looks like. What the menu is like. What is on it. What the staff will wear. Signage! All of it. I find that looking into my dream with this amount of detail helps to keep me grounded and motivated. On a daily basis I explore my dream and my very apparent happiness and find that the answer to all my problems was to first find myself and then to apply the same attitude I have in helping others to help myself. As a result of this I smile genuinely all day. I laugh. I sing. I chop, cut, dice and just all around feel certain of what my future will bring.

I am excited for the summer. For what it will throw at me. To be sure there will be some curve balls but for the most part I am excited to see what the full out production is at a venue as big as ours. It will give me insight into the next few years and indeed my own life as a restaurateur.

So that’s where we stand. Me, a student and liver of life. Constantly striving for the stars because that’s where I belong. And I don’t say that with even the slightest amount of arrogance and I hope that you all see that. I decided to go this way to be the best and I will not settle until I am. My dream (and my love C) are what keep me grounded in reality, in life and in my dream itself.

C gets back on Friday and I am playing Iron Chef C. The secret ingredient is Tuna and man am I going to prepare a feast for her on her triumphant return from NYC. I can hardly wait to show her the new skills that I’ve developed and give her the most amazing sense of the love I have for her and the life I now forge on a daily basis. With a good attitude and a smile. Attitude is the key ladies and gentlemen. That and asking the universe the questions that you have to in order to determine for yourself who you are and what you want.

That said, I will be back as I’ve promised with a little bit of knowledge pulled from Food in History by Reay Tannahill.

I think this is rather on point to what I’m speaking about. John D. Rockefeller once said; “I do not think there is any other quality so essential to success of any kind as the quality of perseverance. It overcomes almost everything, even nature.” And as Frank Lloyd Wright says; “I know the price of success: dedication, hard work and an unremitting devotion to the things you want to see happen.”

So I continue on, smiling, shining, developing, learning, showing, explaining and practicing because I know where I belong and it is quite rightly and beautifully with my darling C and the kitchen. Soon to be my own kitchen (soon in the scheme of things anyway).

What about you? What is that place for you? Are you dreaming inspired? Are you working today toward what you want tomorrow? I am and you should be because that is what sets us free.

A la prochaine

SDM

More Food Made with Love and a burn or two (File under experiences)







A la Prochaine

SDM

More Food Made with Love and a burn or two (File under experiences)





To Slice and Dice (file under Chop Chop, the right way)

The basic cuts that any chef should know are chopping, mincing, chiffonnade, julienne and batonnet, dicing, paysanne or fermiere, diamond or lozenge, rondelle, bias, oblique and roll cuts.

The aim of all these cuts in consistency as well as uniform size and shape. It takes a lot of practice but you can get there. The following are the size of cuts. Where possible I have included a picture reference. Eventually I will add my own images but these are good for now. Moreover, some of these cuts are a lost art. I plan to ensure that I use some of the more less used cuts, Paysanne, lozenge, etc as a tribute to my culinary heritage and development.

Fine Julienne is a 1/16 Inch x 1/16 Inch with a length of one to two inches (http://www.dkimages.com/discover/previews/767/325011.JPG )
Julienne is 1/8 Inch by 1/8 Inch with a length of one to two inches (http://soniatasteshawaii.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2007/07/25/bamboo_shoot_preparation_julienne.jpg )
Batonnet is ¼ inch by ¼ Inch with a length of 2 or 2.5 inches
Fine Brunoise is 1/16 by 1/16 by 1/16 inches (http://www.11er.at/Portals/0/Produkte/GV/Serviervorschlag/gv-sv-brunoise.jpg )
Brunoise is 1/8 by 1/8 by 1/8 inches
Small Dice is ¼ by ¼ by ¼ ( http://www.ehow.com/images/ehows/steps/cookrutabegas_2L.jpg )
Medium Dice is ½ by ½ by ½ inches
Large dice is ¾ by ¾ by ¾ inches
Paysanne is ½ by ½ by 1/8 inches (http://www.culinarycultures.com/Images/Other/PaysannePot.jpg )
Lozenge is a diamond shape and is ½ by ½ by 1/8 inches
Rondelle is 1/8 to ½ inches with your desired thickness
Tourne is two inches long with seven faces (looks like a football)

Each of these cuts requires a good eye, great hand eye coordination and lots of practice. I’m getting better with each of them and spend countless hours each week working on them both at work and at home.

I will be back with a post about my week at Reservation and then yet another about Food in History by Reay Tannahill.

As the great first century Roman author Publilus Syrus once said; “Practice is the best of all instructors”

Be Inspired. Dream. Love. Laugh and Love. These are the key to success in life.

A la prochaine

SDM

The Professional Chef final notes (file under a Must Read for anyone serious about food)

As I wrote the other day I’ve finished reading the Professional Chef by the Culinary Institute of America. This post is going to deal with the rest of what I learned (well some of it anyway) and then I am going to write another post about the various cuts and sizes and yet another about my experiences this past week at Reservation as well as some containing more pictures of my food made with love and for love.

The Professional Chef instructs you on all the things that you need to know whether you want to be an incredible home hobby chef or as the title suggests a professional chef. It has endless recipes which are a great base from which to jump in the kitchen and create your own masterpieces. It teaches you how to buy the right equipment, use the equipment and prepare your mise en place for just about anything.

Of course reading this book has been a massive undertaking. Think of it as reading the kitchens bible and it really did put a fire in my belly to become even more than I already have. So as a final note on The Professional Chef I include the following information for your perusal.

How do you know when you’ve cooked the perfect steak? Or pork tenderloin? Or fish? Of course the obvious answer is to use a meat thermometer to check for doneness. However, if you are really good and have tuned all of your senses you can tell doneness by touch, smell and sight. The following is both the temperature guidelines and the visual signal for doneness.

Fresh Beef, Lamb and Veal

Rare should be 135 degrees Fahrenheit and have a shiny interior.
Medium Rare should be 145 degree Fahrenheit and look deep red to pink.
Medium should be 160 degrees Fahrenheit and look pink to light pink.
Well Done should be 170 degrees Fahrenheit and have no pink

Fresh Pork

Medium should be 160 degree Fahrenheit should appear opaque and have juices that are faintly blushed.
Well Done should be 170 degrees Fahrenheit, when touching it there should be a slight give and the juices will run clear.

Ham

Fresh Ham should be cooked to 160 degree Fahrenheit and should have a slight give while the juices are faintly blushed.

Poultry

Whole birds should be cooked to 180 degrees Fahrenheit and the leg should move easily in the socket while the juices run faintly blushed.
Poultry breasts should be done to 170 degrees Fahrenheit and should appear firm and opaque.
Thighs, legs and wings should be done to 180 degrees Fahrenheit and the meat should release easily from the bone.
Stuffing should be cooked to 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

Seafood

Fish should be cooked to 145 degrees Fahrenheit and should still be moist and easy to separate.

My next post is going to be on the proper sizes of the various cuts that I’ve learned.

Karen Rivn reminds me constantly that; “Only as high as I reach can I grow, only as far as I seek can I go, only as deep as I look can I see, only as much as I dream can I be.” Are you reaching for your personal stars?

Dream inspired! Grow. Be and discover that life is not the abstract you think. It is determined purpose and the daily steps toward your own desires.

A la prochaine

SDM

Monday, March 31, 2008

Dreams and Aspirations (file under reaching for the stars and catching them)

I could not be more proud right now if I tried.

You’ll recall when I started this journey that it was the first step in me realizing my selfish dream of becoming a great chef. Every bone in my body told me that I was meant to be one and once inside the kitchen it was confirmed in so many wonderful ways. Well, my beautiful, talented and spectacularly wonderful fiancĂ©, C, has been a working actress for many years. She has had great success with it and around the same time that I decided that I was going to join a professional kitchen she decided that she was going to do some professional development at Stella Adler (http://www.stellaadler.com/). She was accepted to the introductory course and then was one of the first people ever allowed to also do an advanced course at the same time.

Well on Friday my love went for an audition to be accepted to the conservancy program which would see her attend two semesters in NYC at one of the best schools in the world. The afore mentioned Stella Adler.

It is the most amazing feeling to be sharing dreams advancement and success at the same time as my lover. C, I am your biggest fan, your number one supporter and I infinitely proud of you. Though it is difficult to be away from the ones we love, it is the realization of hard work, desire, passion, persistence and talent. There was never any doubt in my mind. Our love has always overcome challenges and obstacles and has always been able to transcend space and time.

You did it! You visualized it! You stated what you wanted and you got it. There are great lessons to be learned here and this experience can only serve to strengthen your resolve and indeed our love and our future.

Way to go my lover. You are so special and I can hardly wait to see you.

For my loyal readers there is a lesson to be learned here. As I’ve said before the journey starts with just one step, requires courage and conviction. But with those around that love and support you ANYTHING is possible.

Swami Vivekananda once said; “Take up one idea. Make that one idea your life - think of it, dream of it, live on that idea. Let the brain, muscles, nerves, every part of your body, be full of that idea, and just leave every other idea alone. This is the way to success, that is way great spiritual giants are produced.”

I will be back today with posts about curry, stocks, broths, coups, consommés and so much more.

Be inspired. Dream big. Take up that one idea and become the giant that we all have inside of us.

Way to go lover. Four more days until I can show you just how proud of you I am. Shine on and enjoy your last few days in NYC.

A la prochaine

SDM