So I fired off an email on Friday to L’s acquaintance that had mentioned he was interested in becoming a Chef. As stated in the email I gave him a call when I got home this afternoon. When I did not get him I sent him another email asking him to get in contact with me when he is ready. I will definitely keep you posted on any updates.
So today was Day 13 of 14 before I get a day off. Such is the price of going to NYC and having so much damn fun. But unlike other times in the past when I pulled long stretches without a break I find that I have oodles of energy and am brimming with positivism as I know that every day I am one day closer to my goal.
Saturday was a very interesting day at work. As I may or may not have mentioned my morning partner was off all last week and I was alone. On Saturday my relief came in at 9 am and I pretty much left him to take care of prep and anything else that came up as I wanted to see just how well I could do the line dance. (Not to be confused with line dancing as in cowboy boots).
I have always been someone who looks challenges directly in the eye and then, to the best of my ability, knocked them out of the park. Saturday was no exception. It was a challenge that I needed to give myself in order to grow as a cook. So naturally I got there at my usual about 6:10 am and started about my daily tasks. I’ve taken on starting coffee for the servers and laying out the cutting boards for the Garde Manger as well. It is a little thing but I know that it is appreciated.
It felt great to challenge myself on Saturday. I mean really great. I managed to Tango, Salsa, Pirouette, Meringue and Waltz all at the same time. At one point I had four omelettes, eight or nine orders of eggs either over easy, over hard or Sunnyside up and about five orders of Eggs Benedict, Florentine or Benjamin all going at the same time. My body with attention to detail moved gracefully from one side of the line to the other, almost as if I was on skates, sliding down the line, dropping the plates, putting on the various components, turning around and tending to the eggs and then right back to the plates and their various presentations. It was the first time that I had intentionally put myself in the weeds to see if I could pull myself out. I could have at any point called for help and it would have been there in two seconds flat. But I refused to, I wanted to put pressure on myself, I wanted to see how fast I could turn around chits, I wanted to see if I could ensure that the food did not suffer and that I still got it out in a timely fashion. Feel good? DAMN RIGHT! It was a personal victory which revealed to me that I could handle the various stresses in a high paced environment without losing my head or my chits. I am extremely thrilled to report that I was able to turn around orders in as little as three minutes and my longest took twelve when I was getting severely slammed.
Of course because the club is all about making sure the members are always happy you can get breakfast any time of the day. This presents a certain set of challenges when you approach lunchtime. Again because you could get three or four orders on a chit, one for breakfast and the rest for lunch. Organization and timing becoming your paramount concern next to ensuring that the food tastes and LOOKS good. As 12:30 passed I was busy. I had about twelve chits up and I would say it was thirty percent breakfast and the rest lunch. Every time I got that many chits, M would ask if I was okay. I assured him I was and just continued doing what I was doing.
By the end of my shift I had worked about one hundred and forty chits which amounted to about four hundred different orders with (approximately) nine hundred different components. Did it feel good? DAMN RIGHT!
I thought back to Reservation and my experience on the grill and thought how I believe I could pull myself out now without much assistance. Yet I began to wonder why I was left to essentially hang. My relief never came as quickly as it could have and only now do I find myself wondering why in any substantial way. Was it part of the process? Was it some design that I still am unclear on? Or was it something else? I believe as I go forward I will be able to answer that question better. But nonetheless it felt pretty good to wonder about.
I am finding that I am not sleeping well. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that I am currently alone in my place. No roommate and no C. That will change when C gets here in less than a month. However, I also think it is because I have so much on my brain. I am constantly thinking about food, about new concepts, new dishes, new techniques and all of it with an eye to making the best food I possibly can.
All in all I am thrilled. Absolutely thrilled with my decision. I have found a place that I can call home for a while and continue to test my dishes and techniques. All with an eye to the future but maintaining quality and consistency in the present.
This post caused me to think of two quotes. One from William Faulkner; “People need trouble -- a little frustration to sharpen the spirit on, toughen it. Artists do; I don't mean you need to live in a rat hole or gutter, but you have to learn fortitude, endurance. Only vegetables are happy.”
The other from John Heywood; “If you will call your troubles experiences, and remember that every experience develops some latent force within you, you will grow vigorous and happy, however adverse your circumstances may seem to be.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired? WHY NOT! I’m here for you anytime. Just let me know what I can do.
A la prochaine
SDM
Showing posts with label Garde Manger. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Garde Manger. Show all posts
Monday, May 11, 2009
Monday, February 23, 2009
Apicius’ Roman Cookery Book (file under Nouvelle huh?)
Pliny once wrote of Apicius; " the most gluttonous gorger of all spendthrifts, established the view that the flamingo's tongue has a specially fine flavor." And I need to beg the question; who says he was wrong?
I imagine that my file under has you all a bit perplexed. Of course Nouvelle Cuisine came to us by way of Marin, Menon, Escoffier, Gault, Bocuse, Chapel, Troisgros Brothers, Guerard, Verge and Oliver as is observed by common consensus. However it would seem (though I do need further study) that much of what we term as nouvelle cuisine today is in fact the result of Apicius Roman Cookery Book which was written an astonishingly fifteen to sixteen hundred years ago.
The particular copy that I got my hands on (though I am sure by now Google has it on Google Books) is presented with the Latin version on the left side of the page and the English translation on the right.
I observed that some of the recipes seemed to be arcane (ah duh), silly or just plain unnecessary such as one which teaches how to turn red wine white. The first question that popped into my head is why would anyone assault a red wine with a recipe such as this?
Another recipe that struck me (perhaps because it reminded me of Garde Manger) was to turn bad honey into good honey. This is quite simply accomplished by heating two thirds of the bad honey with one third of the good honey. And according to the recipe “Voila” good honey. To me it is unclear whether this recipe is meant to be dishonest or as a means of eliciting further profit. Moreover, for me, it is hard to test the recipe as most honey today is prepared to avoid such spoilage.
He has numerous recipes for the preservation of meats, vegetables, fruits, etc. I am excited to try each and every one of them and to relay the results to you my loyal readers. He has numerous recipes for broths, soups and purees which I am curious to try. Specifically in the trying of these recipes I want to know about the texture resultant.
On page 149 of the copy I had is the recipe for Flamingo that Pliny is so bothered by. Interestingly to me was that there were recipes for snails and wombs. I’ve never had nor conceived of eating a womb (perhaps because of my consciousness) but it did make me wonder why there would be a recipe for it. Are people out there eating womb today? If so I would be curious to know how it is prepared and moreover if there is a ritualistic aspect to the use of the womb.
All in all I would suggest that anyone serious about food should at the very least peruse this book as it has some very interesting recipes. When I try them out I will let you know the result.
Plutarch once wrote; “The same intelligence is required to marshal an army in battle and to order a good dinner. The first must be as formidable as possible, the second as pleasant as possible, to the participants.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
I imagine that my file under has you all a bit perplexed. Of course Nouvelle Cuisine came to us by way of Marin, Menon, Escoffier, Gault, Bocuse, Chapel, Troisgros Brothers, Guerard, Verge and Oliver as is observed by common consensus. However it would seem (though I do need further study) that much of what we term as nouvelle cuisine today is in fact the result of Apicius Roman Cookery Book which was written an astonishingly fifteen to sixteen hundred years ago.
The particular copy that I got my hands on (though I am sure by now Google has it on Google Books) is presented with the Latin version on the left side of the page and the English translation on the right.
I observed that some of the recipes seemed to be arcane (ah duh), silly or just plain unnecessary such as one which teaches how to turn red wine white. The first question that popped into my head is why would anyone assault a red wine with a recipe such as this?
Another recipe that struck me (perhaps because it reminded me of Garde Manger) was to turn bad honey into good honey. This is quite simply accomplished by heating two thirds of the bad honey with one third of the good honey. And according to the recipe “Voila” good honey. To me it is unclear whether this recipe is meant to be dishonest or as a means of eliciting further profit. Moreover, for me, it is hard to test the recipe as most honey today is prepared to avoid such spoilage.
He has numerous recipes for the preservation of meats, vegetables, fruits, etc. I am excited to try each and every one of them and to relay the results to you my loyal readers. He has numerous recipes for broths, soups and purees which I am curious to try. Specifically in the trying of these recipes I want to know about the texture resultant.
On page 149 of the copy I had is the recipe for Flamingo that Pliny is so bothered by. Interestingly to me was that there were recipes for snails and wombs. I’ve never had nor conceived of eating a womb (perhaps because of my consciousness) but it did make me wonder why there would be a recipe for it. Are people out there eating womb today? If so I would be curious to know how it is prepared and moreover if there is a ritualistic aspect to the use of the womb.
All in all I would suggest that anyone serious about food should at the very least peruse this book as it has some very interesting recipes. When I try them out I will let you know the result.
Plutarch once wrote; “The same intelligence is required to marshal an army in battle and to order a good dinner. The first must be as formidable as possible, the second as pleasant as possible, to the participants.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
Thursday, June 12, 2008
In Laws, The Weekend and Advice (file under yes, yes and yes)
So C's parents are in town this weekend and of course I am going to be busy, busy and busy. But hey this is the life that I have chosen and I am thrilled to be living my dream. This weekend I feel as if I know how to run the grill (my station on the patio) and will have great success in doing so as I did last week.
Last night, A and I had a chat which included Thomas Keller, Roland Henin, how to truss a chicken and where I am going. He feels that I will get there and even told me that he thinks that I pick things up quickly and that when he looks at how they had to bail me out the first weekend and then seeing how I operated the next that if I can continue doing that throughout my career I will be very successful as I am a quick study.
He also suggested that when it is time for me to leave Reservation that I should find a technically demanding Garde Manger job. The idea being that how can you be a chef if you don't know how to do everything; including as I've said washing dishes.
Anyway, just a quick post as I'm off to work.
Thomas Keller once said; “I have no formal culinary training, right.” and nor do I. My Chefs are my formal training and I think that it is serving me better than had I gone to school. The flame is a great teacher.
Have an inspired day and dream big.
A la prochaine
SDM
Last night, A and I had a chat which included Thomas Keller, Roland Henin, how to truss a chicken and where I am going. He feels that I will get there and even told me that he thinks that I pick things up quickly and that when he looks at how they had to bail me out the first weekend and then seeing how I operated the next that if I can continue doing that throughout my career I will be very successful as I am a quick study.
He also suggested that when it is time for me to leave Reservation that I should find a technically demanding Garde Manger job. The idea being that how can you be a chef if you don't know how to do everything; including as I've said washing dishes.
Anyway, just a quick post as I'm off to work.
Thomas Keller once said; “I have no formal culinary training, right.” and nor do I. My Chefs are my formal training and I think that it is serving me better than had I gone to school. The flame is a great teacher.
Have an inspired day and dream big.
A la prochaine
SDM
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Destined for Greatness (file under One Step at a Time)
So I’ve now been at my dream for the past three months and I have learned so much. As you’ve seen and experienced with me I have completely immersed myself in something that is so incredible at times I need to give my head a shake. As always, without love, my beautiful and talented C, I would not have had the strength, courage or ability to go after my dream. You are a true companion, partner, confidant and best friend. Thank you for everything my love. You are the penultimate of all that is right, just, beautiful and wise in this world.
I have stated in an earlier post that it was my fervent desire (read goal) to make it to the line by May of this year. I want to be Garde Manger so bad I can taste it (pardon the pun). Yesterday, after seeing the new menu specs and going through them with the team it seemed obvious to me that this was an unrealistic goal. Unrealistic in that Executive Chef and Head Chef have taken a huge chance on me. They are imbuing in me a classical culinary education while at the same time paying me to work. When we first sat down at that fateful meeting they laid out to me what the next couple of years would look like. Excitedly I forgot to take into account a few things in making my goal. That said I now realize that I will not make it to Garde Manger until fall.
Yet in that time I will get some needed experience in our sister restaurants kitchen as well as when the patio opens I will be working those as well. You see, it doesn’t matter sometimes how badly you want something. What matters is that you allow time and experience to develop you into what you want to become. Hard work, patience, practice, all of these things are the cornerstone of anyone who is serious about what they are doing.
At first, when I came to this realization I was a little upset. Not with them and not with myself. More that I had not accurately been able to analyze my growth and myself. Which is not to say that my growth has not been great because it has. Executive Chef pointed out to me that my advancement in my short time there has been great and widely noticed. Moreover, he made it quite clear that in the arrangement we have (my words not his) that he does not want to do anything that would stifle my love, my passion or my ability to be a great Chef. It does not serve him nor Reservation if I get to the line prematurely and can’t handle the heat (thus getting out of the kitchen). He assured me that I would get to the line and that it would be when it was not a time that could crush me. He said that in the fall I would get closer to the line and be able to start my formal line training.
Thus, that means that I need to double and redouble my efforts. I need to continue working on my prep skills, knife skills and all around knowledge. I am taking this opportunity to look within myself and set goals that are workable for me. The end goal is to own my own restaurant by the time I am forty. No small feat I assure you. It is also a stated goal for me to make Saucier within two years. The next natural stage in development at that point is to become Chef De Cuisine or Chef De Partie.
I also spoke with Head Chef about my realization. He calmed my fears which he could see written on my face and let me know that I was doing everything well. That my development was plain to see and that my enthusiasm is infectious. I ask you, how do you feel, is my enthusiasm infectious. I believe it is. He also said that consistency was something that I need to strive towards, with my stock, my cuts, etc. Consistency is the mark of a true professional.
I’ve grown a lot as a man in the past three months. I’ve learned about myself and my position within the world. Where I was once confused and scared I am now certain and laser focused. Of course, life is filled with ups and downs but now my life seems to be filled with far more ups. I get excited, like a child on Christmas morning, each time I get a new knife, each time I learn a new skill, each time I gain some knowledge and insight into the kitchen, an ingredient, a mentor, the past and the future and in fact am giddy like a school child on the first day of school every time I walk into the kitchen.
I have already started working on what my restaurant will be. I am creating pictures in my mind of what it looks like. What the menu is like. What is on it. What the staff will wear. Signage! All of it. I find that looking into my dream with this amount of detail helps to keep me grounded and motivated. On a daily basis I explore my dream and my very apparent happiness and find that the answer to all my problems was to first find myself and then to apply the same attitude I have in helping others to help myself. As a result of this I smile genuinely all day. I laugh. I sing. I chop, cut, dice and just all around feel certain of what my future will bring.
I am excited for the summer. For what it will throw at me. To be sure there will be some curve balls but for the most part I am excited to see what the full out production is at a venue as big as ours. It will give me insight into the next few years and indeed my own life as a restaurateur.
So that’s where we stand. Me, a student and liver of life. Constantly striving for the stars because that’s where I belong. And I don’t say that with even the slightest amount of arrogance and I hope that you all see that. I decided to go this way to be the best and I will not settle until I am. My dream (and my love C) are what keep me grounded in reality, in life and in my dream itself.
C gets back on Friday and I am playing Iron Chef C. The secret ingredient is Tuna and man am I going to prepare a feast for her on her triumphant return from NYC. I can hardly wait to show her the new skills that I’ve developed and give her the most amazing sense of the love I have for her and the life I now forge on a daily basis. With a good attitude and a smile. Attitude is the key ladies and gentlemen. That and asking the universe the questions that you have to in order to determine for yourself who you are and what you want.
That said, I will be back as I’ve promised with a little bit of knowledge pulled from Food in History by Reay Tannahill.
I think this is rather on point to what I’m speaking about. John D. Rockefeller once said; “I do not think there is any other quality so essential to success of any kind as the quality of perseverance. It overcomes almost everything, even nature.” And as Frank Lloyd Wright says; “I know the price of success: dedication, hard work and an unremitting devotion to the things you want to see happen.”
So I continue on, smiling, shining, developing, learning, showing, explaining and practicing because I know where I belong and it is quite rightly and beautifully with my darling C and the kitchen. Soon to be my own kitchen (soon in the scheme of things anyway).
What about you? What is that place for you? Are you dreaming inspired? Are you working today toward what you want tomorrow? I am and you should be because that is what sets us free.
A la prochaine
SDM
I have stated in an earlier post that it was my fervent desire (read goal) to make it to the line by May of this year. I want to be Garde Manger so bad I can taste it (pardon the pun). Yesterday, after seeing the new menu specs and going through them with the team it seemed obvious to me that this was an unrealistic goal. Unrealistic in that Executive Chef and Head Chef have taken a huge chance on me. They are imbuing in me a classical culinary education while at the same time paying me to work. When we first sat down at that fateful meeting they laid out to me what the next couple of years would look like. Excitedly I forgot to take into account a few things in making my goal. That said I now realize that I will not make it to Garde Manger until fall.
Yet in that time I will get some needed experience in our sister restaurants kitchen as well as when the patio opens I will be working those as well. You see, it doesn’t matter sometimes how badly you want something. What matters is that you allow time and experience to develop you into what you want to become. Hard work, patience, practice, all of these things are the cornerstone of anyone who is serious about what they are doing.
At first, when I came to this realization I was a little upset. Not with them and not with myself. More that I had not accurately been able to analyze my growth and myself. Which is not to say that my growth has not been great because it has. Executive Chef pointed out to me that my advancement in my short time there has been great and widely noticed. Moreover, he made it quite clear that in the arrangement we have (my words not his) that he does not want to do anything that would stifle my love, my passion or my ability to be a great Chef. It does not serve him nor Reservation if I get to the line prematurely and can’t handle the heat (thus getting out of the kitchen). He assured me that I would get to the line and that it would be when it was not a time that could crush me. He said that in the fall I would get closer to the line and be able to start my formal line training.
Thus, that means that I need to double and redouble my efforts. I need to continue working on my prep skills, knife skills and all around knowledge. I am taking this opportunity to look within myself and set goals that are workable for me. The end goal is to own my own restaurant by the time I am forty. No small feat I assure you. It is also a stated goal for me to make Saucier within two years. The next natural stage in development at that point is to become Chef De Cuisine or Chef De Partie.
I also spoke with Head Chef about my realization. He calmed my fears which he could see written on my face and let me know that I was doing everything well. That my development was plain to see and that my enthusiasm is infectious. I ask you, how do you feel, is my enthusiasm infectious. I believe it is. He also said that consistency was something that I need to strive towards, with my stock, my cuts, etc. Consistency is the mark of a true professional.
I’ve grown a lot as a man in the past three months. I’ve learned about myself and my position within the world. Where I was once confused and scared I am now certain and laser focused. Of course, life is filled with ups and downs but now my life seems to be filled with far more ups. I get excited, like a child on Christmas morning, each time I get a new knife, each time I learn a new skill, each time I gain some knowledge and insight into the kitchen, an ingredient, a mentor, the past and the future and in fact am giddy like a school child on the first day of school every time I walk into the kitchen.
I have already started working on what my restaurant will be. I am creating pictures in my mind of what it looks like. What the menu is like. What is on it. What the staff will wear. Signage! All of it. I find that looking into my dream with this amount of detail helps to keep me grounded and motivated. On a daily basis I explore my dream and my very apparent happiness and find that the answer to all my problems was to first find myself and then to apply the same attitude I have in helping others to help myself. As a result of this I smile genuinely all day. I laugh. I sing. I chop, cut, dice and just all around feel certain of what my future will bring.
I am excited for the summer. For what it will throw at me. To be sure there will be some curve balls but for the most part I am excited to see what the full out production is at a venue as big as ours. It will give me insight into the next few years and indeed my own life as a restaurateur.
So that’s where we stand. Me, a student and liver of life. Constantly striving for the stars because that’s where I belong. And I don’t say that with even the slightest amount of arrogance and I hope that you all see that. I decided to go this way to be the best and I will not settle until I am. My dream (and my love C) are what keep me grounded in reality, in life and in my dream itself.
C gets back on Friday and I am playing Iron Chef C. The secret ingredient is Tuna and man am I going to prepare a feast for her on her triumphant return from NYC. I can hardly wait to show her the new skills that I’ve developed and give her the most amazing sense of the love I have for her and the life I now forge on a daily basis. With a good attitude and a smile. Attitude is the key ladies and gentlemen. That and asking the universe the questions that you have to in order to determine for yourself who you are and what you want.
That said, I will be back as I’ve promised with a little bit of knowledge pulled from Food in History by Reay Tannahill.
I think this is rather on point to what I’m speaking about. John D. Rockefeller once said; “I do not think there is any other quality so essential to success of any kind as the quality of perseverance. It overcomes almost everything, even nature.” And as Frank Lloyd Wright says; “I know the price of success: dedication, hard work and an unremitting devotion to the things you want to see happen.”
So I continue on, smiling, shining, developing, learning, showing, explaining and practicing because I know where I belong and it is quite rightly and beautifully with my darling C and the kitchen. Soon to be my own kitchen (soon in the scheme of things anyway).
What about you? What is that place for you? Are you dreaming inspired? Are you working today toward what you want tomorrow? I am and you should be because that is what sets us free.
A la prochaine
SDM
Saturday, March 15, 2008
The CAC Effect (File under Cigarettes, Alcohol and Coffee)
I recall that someone, somewhere once said what a long strange trip it’s been. (Of course I know who it is but liked the line.) I also seem to recall about some fear and loathing. Perhaps I should write about that in the sense of the kitchen. Though the reason that I started with the CAC effect is that to some degree that is what the kitchen is fueled on. In some cases far more than others but it is interesting. Even before I started at Reservation I was aware of this (he says dryly as he sips a Tullamore Dew in honour of his Irish Heritage, care of the Catholic Church declaring that today is because of Holy Week Saint Patrick’s Day, I wonder how Saint Patrick feels about that). At any rate I have had a topsy-turvy kind of week. Ups and downs. Successes and failures yet I keep reminding myself that this is my dream and Mama said there’d be days like these. Days like these my Mama said.
I’d also like to give a massive shout out to Mon Petit Oiseau, C, on completing her introductory course at Stella Adler. I am so proud of you you can’t even understand. Way to go and I hope you have a blast tonight my Fendi Phoenix.
Choron Sauce
To make a Choron Sauce is not as easy as it sounds. I think that most people think of a Choron Sauce as something that you just whip together and it is bound to taste good. Au contrare mon amis, Choron can be one difficult guy to sauce. Pardon the humour (save of course on Saint Patrick’s Day when everyone is Irish).
This week I made the Choron four times. Once I had it split on me. Splitting for those not in the know is when the proper binding does not take place. In this case with eggs and butter. The temperament of the sauce is such that if you undercook the eggs it tastes too eggy and is not good (especially when it is meant as a compliment to Lobster Eggs Benedict). If you overcook the egg the butter will not bind. And if you add the butter too quickly and not whisking vigorously enough you might as well let the chickens come home to roost because your sauce is going to be CRAP. I did manage to make two this week that held all through service. Once Exec Chef said to me that it wasn’t too bad and the other time that it was pretty good. In making the sauce all the time now I am beginning to find the right acidity level and approximating the cooking times of the eggs to create the best environment for the butter to bind. By the way, we are not talking about a little bit of butter. I need to convince, cajole and placate the eggs in order to take in a full pound to a pound and a half of butter. Think it’s easy. Feel free to give it a try. Let me know how it works for you. As an aside, all the recipes I’ve seen on the Internet are not the way that we do it at Reservation.
My Hands
My hands have always been my lifeblood. At least in some way. Whether it was writing or delivering garbage bins, I have always used my hands. BUT NEVER like I do now. My hands constantly ache. I imagine that the pain is akin to osteoarthritis. They are consistently sore and I believe that it is because my hands are using muscles they have not used and certainly not to the same degree that they are used now. I peel hundreds of pounds of potatoes each week, at least one hundred pounds carrots, I chop, carve, cut, peel, slice, julienne, brunoise and that is just the tip of the iceberg. Please don’t take what I’m saying as complaining either because it certainly isn’t. It is merely acknowledging openly the pain connected with my dream. I am also certain that the pain will subside as time goes on. As the muscles get stronger. Just for now, it is quite interesting as it even hurts to pick up a pen and anyone that knows my history would know that my life has been riddled by the pain of not being able to pick up a pen. TRUE FACT!
Garde Manger
I WANT TO BE GARDE MANGER ASAP! I work each day paying attention to the Mise En Place. The way that things are done. Plating. Speed. Detail! I know that I am an apprentice cook but I have undertaken a very serious thing here. MY DREAMS! My hopes. My aspirations and I work each day toward them. It is my fervent wish to be the Garde Manger by the time the summer comes. This week I really wanted to get in there and plate some stuff but unfortunately (fortunately though in terms of work) we have a couple of students in for their co-op. In fact it is interesting because S, the Garde Manger, has taken the female co-op student under her wing and it has made it more difficult for me to step up to the plate.
I even remarked to both Head and Executive Chef today that I am itching to get to the line. To contribute even more than I already am. “Put me in the game coach. I’m ready!” Instead this week due to the circumstances I felt more like a Hanson in Slap Shot; “I go to the box, I feel shame.”
Butternut Squash Soup fort 190 People
Tonight there is an event at Reservation. One of the dishes is a Roasted Butternut Squash Soup. I stepped up to the plate yesterday and decided that I was going to make the soup. I didn’t ask nor did I wait for someone to tell me. I assumed the roll as I feel that that is the way that you advance inside the restaurant industry. I did ask how to go about making the soup but not much more. As it turns out I produced about 100 litres and it was a little thin. Ends up that the cream that I added is supposed to thicken the soup. However, as I was worried about volume being given conflicting answers as to the yield that I required I did water it down a bit. C, can tell you that the roasted Butternut Squash Soup that I make at home has an awesome consistency, is thick and much to my surprise is not far from the recipe used at Reservation. And I have never looked at a recipe (until recently). Much of today was spent reducing the soup and thickening it up by J (the Poissonier). Have any of you tried to make 70 litres of soup before?
My Joy and My Dream
Everyday I get better at what I am doing. I understand the concepts and the principles. As I said in an earlier post. I have never been good with rules, but principles on the other hand I have never had a problem with. I am more comfortable with Canapés, the line, prep, receiving and the kitchen environment. I have started to put my head down, nose to the grindstone, whatever you want to term it so that my work speaks for itself. Oh sure I will still laugh with L and others but I want to be respected, taken seriously and acknowledged by my peers as someone that is serious and will eventually own restaurants.
I now know joy beyond anything I have ever known. I wake up each day whether with two hours sleep or sixteen with a Cheshire Cat grin. Confidant in the knowledge that I am in the right place. Working with the right people and for the first time in my life dedicating myself to the right thing. A funny thing happened on the way to my dream. I’ve said this a few times but it is absolutely true. A funny thing did happen to me on the way to my dream. I found myself. I exposed my innards with devoted honesty; I looked myself in the mirror and took great time exploring who I was, what I wanted and what I wanted to be. Not for anyone else but myself. Everyday, I wake with a joy that I assumed was reserved for someone other than me. But no more.
Studying
All of my free time is spent either studying or sleeping. This week I did a couple of experiments and learned from them. I finished Michel Bras’ “Essential Cuisine” and found myself asking all kinds of questions related not only to food but also my future. I read voraciously, as anyone who know me can tell you. I am now applying all the knowledge that my mother rammed into my hard head and yes even some of my fathers too. It is funny how a thought about Plato’s Cave can lead to a realization about Choron, or Veal Stock or Remi. I find that the more I study the more questions I have. The more knowledge I seek the more holes I realize are there and it EXCITES me, it alleviates my fears and drives me ever forward. I know that some are expecting at Reservation that I will break, I will stop being happy, or enjoying what I’m doing but only C and I have a clear picture of what the future holds. And that is because we are active participants in our lives. That and you can make the decision to be happy, to enjoy what you’re doing (as long as it is truly what you want to do). I live for today because I know that thinking the future will be better is stupid. The future is grounded in the steps I take today. AND YOU TOO.
Tonight I am reading Nigel Didcock’s “Capturing the Spirit” (http://www.chefdb.com/nm/275/ ) his plates are gorgeous and I don’t know much more than that at the moment.
Life or something like it
In the past two months I have become a real man. I have found myself. I have realized that first step in the journey to my dream and I have found a genuine happiness that is resplendent with copious amounts of vibrant joy. As I’ve said before my only regret is that I did not start this journey earlier as so many people had tried to get me to do. C, you’ve stood by me and I appreciate it and adore you for your courage, strength and devotion. Get ready when you get home to see what my true joy looks like. I think it will surprise even you. Thanks to my family for being there for me on what seemed like an endless journey. J.M. thank you for your friendship and opening the door of possibility for my future. E, thank you for listening to J.M. Executive and Head Chefs, thank you for your faith, your belief and your chance. I strive each day to honour what you’ve enabled me to do and I look forward to the day I can have you both at my restaurant and I do think that a Petrus would be in order.
That said it is time for me to start studying but I leave you as I always do with a nugget of truth, a kernel of reason to allow you to open your pathway to your dream. Please dream inspired, big and shoot for the stars, they are ours for the taking if you are willing to work.
“There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. Some kind of high-powered mutant never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.”
Are you brave enough to be too weird AND TO LIVE! Be inspired today and do something that scares the shit out of you.
A la prochaine
SDM
I’d also like to give a massive shout out to Mon Petit Oiseau, C, on completing her introductory course at Stella Adler. I am so proud of you you can’t even understand. Way to go and I hope you have a blast tonight my Fendi Phoenix.
Choron Sauce
To make a Choron Sauce is not as easy as it sounds. I think that most people think of a Choron Sauce as something that you just whip together and it is bound to taste good. Au contrare mon amis, Choron can be one difficult guy to sauce. Pardon the humour (save of course on Saint Patrick’s Day when everyone is Irish).
This week I made the Choron four times. Once I had it split on me. Splitting for those not in the know is when the proper binding does not take place. In this case with eggs and butter. The temperament of the sauce is such that if you undercook the eggs it tastes too eggy and is not good (especially when it is meant as a compliment to Lobster Eggs Benedict). If you overcook the egg the butter will not bind. And if you add the butter too quickly and not whisking vigorously enough you might as well let the chickens come home to roost because your sauce is going to be CRAP. I did manage to make two this week that held all through service. Once Exec Chef said to me that it wasn’t too bad and the other time that it was pretty good. In making the sauce all the time now I am beginning to find the right acidity level and approximating the cooking times of the eggs to create the best environment for the butter to bind. By the way, we are not talking about a little bit of butter. I need to convince, cajole and placate the eggs in order to take in a full pound to a pound and a half of butter. Think it’s easy. Feel free to give it a try. Let me know how it works for you. As an aside, all the recipes I’ve seen on the Internet are not the way that we do it at Reservation.
My Hands
My hands have always been my lifeblood. At least in some way. Whether it was writing or delivering garbage bins, I have always used my hands. BUT NEVER like I do now. My hands constantly ache. I imagine that the pain is akin to osteoarthritis. They are consistently sore and I believe that it is because my hands are using muscles they have not used and certainly not to the same degree that they are used now. I peel hundreds of pounds of potatoes each week, at least one hundred pounds carrots, I chop, carve, cut, peel, slice, julienne, brunoise and that is just the tip of the iceberg. Please don’t take what I’m saying as complaining either because it certainly isn’t. It is merely acknowledging openly the pain connected with my dream. I am also certain that the pain will subside as time goes on. As the muscles get stronger. Just for now, it is quite interesting as it even hurts to pick up a pen and anyone that knows my history would know that my life has been riddled by the pain of not being able to pick up a pen. TRUE FACT!
Garde Manger
I WANT TO BE GARDE MANGER ASAP! I work each day paying attention to the Mise En Place. The way that things are done. Plating. Speed. Detail! I know that I am an apprentice cook but I have undertaken a very serious thing here. MY DREAMS! My hopes. My aspirations and I work each day toward them. It is my fervent wish to be the Garde Manger by the time the summer comes. This week I really wanted to get in there and plate some stuff but unfortunately (fortunately though in terms of work) we have a couple of students in for their co-op. In fact it is interesting because S, the Garde Manger, has taken the female co-op student under her wing and it has made it more difficult for me to step up to the plate.
I even remarked to both Head and Executive Chef today that I am itching to get to the line. To contribute even more than I already am. “Put me in the game coach. I’m ready!” Instead this week due to the circumstances I felt more like a Hanson in Slap Shot; “I go to the box, I feel shame.”
Butternut Squash Soup fort 190 People
Tonight there is an event at Reservation. One of the dishes is a Roasted Butternut Squash Soup. I stepped up to the plate yesterday and decided that I was going to make the soup. I didn’t ask nor did I wait for someone to tell me. I assumed the roll as I feel that that is the way that you advance inside the restaurant industry. I did ask how to go about making the soup but not much more. As it turns out I produced about 100 litres and it was a little thin. Ends up that the cream that I added is supposed to thicken the soup. However, as I was worried about volume being given conflicting answers as to the yield that I required I did water it down a bit. C, can tell you that the roasted Butternut Squash Soup that I make at home has an awesome consistency, is thick and much to my surprise is not far from the recipe used at Reservation. And I have never looked at a recipe (until recently). Much of today was spent reducing the soup and thickening it up by J (the Poissonier). Have any of you tried to make 70 litres of soup before?
My Joy and My Dream
Everyday I get better at what I am doing. I understand the concepts and the principles. As I said in an earlier post. I have never been good with rules, but principles on the other hand I have never had a problem with. I am more comfortable with Canapés, the line, prep, receiving and the kitchen environment. I have started to put my head down, nose to the grindstone, whatever you want to term it so that my work speaks for itself. Oh sure I will still laugh with L and others but I want to be respected, taken seriously and acknowledged by my peers as someone that is serious and will eventually own restaurants.
I now know joy beyond anything I have ever known. I wake up each day whether with two hours sleep or sixteen with a Cheshire Cat grin. Confidant in the knowledge that I am in the right place. Working with the right people and for the first time in my life dedicating myself to the right thing. A funny thing happened on the way to my dream. I’ve said this a few times but it is absolutely true. A funny thing did happen to me on the way to my dream. I found myself. I exposed my innards with devoted honesty; I looked myself in the mirror and took great time exploring who I was, what I wanted and what I wanted to be. Not for anyone else but myself. Everyday, I wake with a joy that I assumed was reserved for someone other than me. But no more.
Studying
All of my free time is spent either studying or sleeping. This week I did a couple of experiments and learned from them. I finished Michel Bras’ “Essential Cuisine” and found myself asking all kinds of questions related not only to food but also my future. I read voraciously, as anyone who know me can tell you. I am now applying all the knowledge that my mother rammed into my hard head and yes even some of my fathers too. It is funny how a thought about Plato’s Cave can lead to a realization about Choron, or Veal Stock or Remi. I find that the more I study the more questions I have. The more knowledge I seek the more holes I realize are there and it EXCITES me, it alleviates my fears and drives me ever forward. I know that some are expecting at Reservation that I will break, I will stop being happy, or enjoying what I’m doing but only C and I have a clear picture of what the future holds. And that is because we are active participants in our lives. That and you can make the decision to be happy, to enjoy what you’re doing (as long as it is truly what you want to do). I live for today because I know that thinking the future will be better is stupid. The future is grounded in the steps I take today. AND YOU TOO.
Tonight I am reading Nigel Didcock’s “Capturing the Spirit” (http://www.chefdb.com/nm/275/ ) his plates are gorgeous and I don’t know much more than that at the moment.
Life or something like it
In the past two months I have become a real man. I have found myself. I have realized that first step in the journey to my dream and I have found a genuine happiness that is resplendent with copious amounts of vibrant joy. As I’ve said before my only regret is that I did not start this journey earlier as so many people had tried to get me to do. C, you’ve stood by me and I appreciate it and adore you for your courage, strength and devotion. Get ready when you get home to see what my true joy looks like. I think it will surprise even you. Thanks to my family for being there for me on what seemed like an endless journey. J.M. thank you for your friendship and opening the door of possibility for my future. E, thank you for listening to J.M. Executive and Head Chefs, thank you for your faith, your belief and your chance. I strive each day to honour what you’ve enabled me to do and I look forward to the day I can have you both at my restaurant and I do think that a Petrus would be in order.
That said it is time for me to start studying but I leave you as I always do with a nugget of truth, a kernel of reason to allow you to open your pathway to your dream. Please dream inspired, big and shoot for the stars, they are ours for the taking if you are willing to work.
“There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. Some kind of high-powered mutant never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.”
Are you brave enough to be too weird AND TO LIVE! Be inspired today and do something that scares the shit out of you.
A la prochaine
SDM
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Mama Said (File under days like these)
First off, last night I completed another experiment. I managed to convince myself that pork tenderloin and Tandoori go together with Napa Cabbage on big old Kaisers. I will admit that I had to cheat and buy a Tandoori Masala powder but I then had to kick it up with a very special smoked paprika that my stepmother gave me. Ohh it is so good. I also added cayenne and chili flake. I have to admit that creating the paste at first I was a little unsure. But nothing that a little olive oil and love (read butter) couldn’t fix. I actually ended up with the right colour and the flavour was bang on for what I was aiming for. My guinea pig said that he enjoyed it thoroughly and again to my mind the only thing that would have made it better would have been to share it with C. Though I can guarantee that I will come up with a better way to do the Tandoori. Including starting from scratch. All in all though a good experiment.
Tandoori Paste
Tandoori Pork
A very familiar shot of me
The end result...
Today was an awesome day. I wanted to reveal to you just how much comes in when we order. Today was light day but all the orders included; a case of olive oil, one case of eggs, a case of plum tomatoes, a box of candy, a case of butter, a case of cream, two cases of various spaghettis. And that was just dry goods. Then the fish arrived. Today we only got about thirty pounds of Salmon, five pounds of mussels and six pounds of 31-40 shrimp. Then came the vegetables, a case of plum tomatoes, five different kinds of fresh herbs (tarragon, Italian parsley, chives, basil and thyme), eggplant, spaghetti squash, carrots, baby carrots, russet potatoes, Yukon gold potatoes, onions (each of the last three in 50 pound amounts), zucchini, rutabaga, fennel, gooseberries, micro greens, spinach, romaine hearts, etc. I think you get the idea. When produce comes in it takes me about twenty minutes minimum to put it away. When it is an obscene order it takes me about forty minutes.
I had a short day today but when I was finished my paid work I paid careful attention to how the Garde Manger does things. I asked her to lay out what all the plates are for me so that I could understand. She suggested that it would be better for me to pay really careful attention for twenty minutes. No writing, just paying attention. She told me that she envied me because the passion that I have is obvious. She asked what I wanted to do eventually and I told her that it was my mission in life to have not one but at least two restaurants. She laughed and smiled brightly and it lead me to believe that she understood me at least a little bit more. She explained to me how certain things get done and was happy to answer all of my questions. I paid careful attention to the way that she designed her station. This caused me to start thinking, which then in turn start me asking questions.
I asked Head Chef what the proper way was to set up a station. He answered in his usual manner by using his example. He explained how he sets up his station bit by bit and it made an incredible amount of sense to me. I then asked about the way to set up Garde Manger. He suggested that I look at the way it is set up now. Understand the functionality of it. Build upon it and when the time is right make it my own. I made little scribble diagrams of how it is set up now and made a mental note that I am going to phantom practice. By that I mean set up a fake station and then ask one of my friends to judge me on my performance. I can already see efficiencies that I will set up at my station when the time is right for me to become Garde. I have set a very difficult timeline for myself to get to Garde and it coincides with us at Reservation beginning to get busy. I would say I think I can do it but instead I’d like to say that I KNOW I CAN AND WILL DO IT. Thanks C for teaching me how to believe in myself.
I had another experience today which I won’t elaborate on but it taught me a lot about the way that the kitchen functions. The role of the Executive Chef and how it is mandatory that the ship be controlled at his whim. I was grateful to experience what I experienced today and it caused me to reevaluate the way that I will be in the kitchen a little.
In short today I learned how to set up my (not currently but soon) station. Tomorrow I am going to take pictures of all the stations so that I can start internalizing how I would do it. How it is done now and how I can make it better. This is part of the journey and part of the learning and I am excited, as always, to become more than I currently am, through diligence and hard work (not to mention a little talent, passion and drive).
I also had an awesome dream last night about Michel Bras and the food he presents. It involved C and I being invited for dinner. The whole purpose of which was to give me a first hand experience to make my food better. At the end of the dream Bras and his wife asked C and I if we would like to stay with them a while so that I could learn more. We both jumped at it and now I’m left wondering if I am supposed to figure out a way to get to Aubrac. What do you think? C certainly thought so, as did I in the dream. There is no question I will spend some time either in Italy or France next year. The only question is where.
John Wolfgang von Goethe once said; “A really great talent finds its happiness in execution.” And I find happiness each and every day. Do you?
Be inspired tonight. Dream. Live. Succeed.
A la prochaine
SDM
Tandoori Paste
Tandoori Pork
A very familiar shot of me
The end result...
Today was an awesome day. I wanted to reveal to you just how much comes in when we order. Today was light day but all the orders included; a case of olive oil, one case of eggs, a case of plum tomatoes, a box of candy, a case of butter, a case of cream, two cases of various spaghettis. And that was just dry goods. Then the fish arrived. Today we only got about thirty pounds of Salmon, five pounds of mussels and six pounds of 31-40 shrimp. Then came the vegetables, a case of plum tomatoes, five different kinds of fresh herbs (tarragon, Italian parsley, chives, basil and thyme), eggplant, spaghetti squash, carrots, baby carrots, russet potatoes, Yukon gold potatoes, onions (each of the last three in 50 pound amounts), zucchini, rutabaga, fennel, gooseberries, micro greens, spinach, romaine hearts, etc. I think you get the idea. When produce comes in it takes me about twenty minutes minimum to put it away. When it is an obscene order it takes me about forty minutes.
I had a short day today but when I was finished my paid work I paid careful attention to how the Garde Manger does things. I asked her to lay out what all the plates are for me so that I could understand. She suggested that it would be better for me to pay really careful attention for twenty minutes. No writing, just paying attention. She told me that she envied me because the passion that I have is obvious. She asked what I wanted to do eventually and I told her that it was my mission in life to have not one but at least two restaurants. She laughed and smiled brightly and it lead me to believe that she understood me at least a little bit more. She explained to me how certain things get done and was happy to answer all of my questions. I paid careful attention to the way that she designed her station. This caused me to start thinking, which then in turn start me asking questions.
I asked Head Chef what the proper way was to set up a station. He answered in his usual manner by using his example. He explained how he sets up his station bit by bit and it made an incredible amount of sense to me. I then asked about the way to set up Garde Manger. He suggested that I look at the way it is set up now. Understand the functionality of it. Build upon it and when the time is right make it my own. I made little scribble diagrams of how it is set up now and made a mental note that I am going to phantom practice. By that I mean set up a fake station and then ask one of my friends to judge me on my performance. I can already see efficiencies that I will set up at my station when the time is right for me to become Garde. I have set a very difficult timeline for myself to get to Garde and it coincides with us at Reservation beginning to get busy. I would say I think I can do it but instead I’d like to say that I KNOW I CAN AND WILL DO IT. Thanks C for teaching me how to believe in myself.
I had another experience today which I won’t elaborate on but it taught me a lot about the way that the kitchen functions. The role of the Executive Chef and how it is mandatory that the ship be controlled at his whim. I was grateful to experience what I experienced today and it caused me to reevaluate the way that I will be in the kitchen a little.
In short today I learned how to set up my (not currently but soon) station. Tomorrow I am going to take pictures of all the stations so that I can start internalizing how I would do it. How it is done now and how I can make it better. This is part of the journey and part of the learning and I am excited, as always, to become more than I currently am, through diligence and hard work (not to mention a little talent, passion and drive).
I also had an awesome dream last night about Michel Bras and the food he presents. It involved C and I being invited for dinner. The whole purpose of which was to give me a first hand experience to make my food better. At the end of the dream Bras and his wife asked C and I if we would like to stay with them a while so that I could learn more. We both jumped at it and now I’m left wondering if I am supposed to figure out a way to get to Aubrac. What do you think? C certainly thought so, as did I in the dream. There is no question I will spend some time either in Italy or France next year. The only question is where.
John Wolfgang von Goethe once said; “A really great talent finds its happiness in execution.” And I find happiness each and every day. Do you?
Be inspired tonight. Dream. Live. Succeed.
A la prochaine
SDM
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