Monday, February 4, 2008

Terms Learned (January 28 – February 4)

Aiguillette;

French name for long (skinny) fillets taken from the side of the breast of poultry (usually duck) and other game birds.

Quenelle;

Spiced meat dumpling (or fish bound with eggs and fat). Molded into egg or sausage shape and then poached. Most common is veal and is a specialty of Lyon. Usually an entrée served au gratin or with sauce or both. If a small quenelle it can be used as a garnish. Can also be added to salpicons and ragouts, croustades or even vol-au-vent. The name is of German derivation.

Vin Santo;

Dessert Wine or ‘Holy Wine’ from Tuscany and usually made of Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. Although some common varietals like Pinot Gris, Blanc and Chardonnay are possible. It is a labour intensive wine to make as the proper aging of the grapes (hanging from rafters) is at least three years. Colouration varies from Amber to Rose.

Fondant;

Syrup cooked to “softball” then worked until thick and opaque. It is then kneaded until smooth and white.

Beatilles;

Old French term for ingredient that are small (example brunoise, Minute Foie Gras or Sweetbreads)

Boulanger;

In 1765 he became the first restaurateur of Paris. As he did not have the right credentials he was only allowed to serve drinks and broths. Bu using his cunning and the law in his first year he served sheep’s feet in a white sauce and overcame the ‘caterers union’ credentials. It literally translates to baker.

A La Boulangere;

Dishes baked in the oven; Lamb or fish served with potatoes, onions, possibly butter. Prior to the advent of the household oven it was common to use communal ovens hence the term.

Papillote;

Decoration (think lace doily) to garnish the tips of the bones of lamb, chicken or veal chop. (Example; En Papillote is to wrap in parchment paper or tin foil and then cook) It is usually prepared with onions and herbs. The wrapping puffs up and is served rapidly before the casing collapses. Can also be candy. Probably derived from the French for Butterfly (Papillion).

Matelote;

Aromatic fish stew made with wine. Usually freshwater fish (eel) but could be Trout or Cod for example. Standard fair in Languedoc, Loire and Rhone regions of France. All are garnished with onions, mushrooms and bacon.

Bourride;

Provencal soup (Fish). Broth is strained then bound with Aioli. Most commonly made with monkfish but can be substituted.

A La Meuniere;

Method used to cook all kinds of fish in which it is lightly floured, from which it gets its name (Miller Wife) then fried in butter. Lots of ingredients can be prepared this way.

Cocotte;

Two handed fitted lid round or oval pan. It is used to slow cook such as with braising. Originated in the 1800’s and was typically cast iron (now there are a number or different ways these are made) Any good heat conductor can be used today.

Sauterne;

White wine from Bordeaux. Most famous is Chateau d’Yquem. Should be served at the end of meal with fruit or dessert – Could also go with blue cheese.

Panache;

Two drinks equally mixed. Usually lemonade (think the one from Sal Pellegrino) with Beer. In cooking it means two or more ingredients with different shapes, flavour or colour.

Rouelle;

Thick slice of round veal from leg. Roasted or braised. Think of shank with Osso Bucco.

Mange – Tout;

A snow or sugar pea. French for “Eat all.”

Hermitage;

Red and white wines coming from the slopes above Tain-Hermitage on the left bank of the Rhone. First rate wines.

Courgette (zucchini);

Usually eaten young, great edible skin. Range in size from flower intact baby to much larger and in a variety of shapes.

Carre;

High fat (45% or more) soft pasteurized cheese coming from Lorraine and Champagne. Can also be Normandy Cheese in the same family as Bondard.

Cassolette;

Porcelain, short handled, small container used to serve h’ors d’oeuvre, cold pudding or hot entrees. Can also be a dish of all kinds of salpicons or ragouts bound with white or brown sauce. Can also be sweet.

Duxelles;

Shallot, Onion & Mushrooms sautéed in butter predominantly used as a garnish or stuffing.

Ceps;

Boletus mushroom that resembles a tree trunk – the Italians would call them Porcini. There are more than a couple dozen edible varieties.

Bordeaux (Penny – Bun in England) and Pine Cep are highly valued by the gastronomic community. Always better when young

Ballotine;

Hot or cold dish (Poultry, Game Birds or Fish) in Aspic. It is rolled and stuffed then tied in cheesecloth.

Acidulate;

Turn a dish or liquid slightly acid, piquant or tart by adding vinegar, lemon or unripe fruit juice. Can also mean adding a little lemon to sour cream or fresh.

William Pear;

Good for cooking, as it is juicy, fragrant and sweet,

Sainte – Emilion;

On the right side of the Gironde River. Gorgeous town known for its red wines. Stringent classifications standards and is completed every 10 years. Most famous are Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Mainly made from Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Great aging and well concentrated full-bodied wine.

Civet;

Game stew (Rabbit, Wild Boar, Venison) with red wine thickened with blood, onions and bacon. Name comes from Cive (scallion). Some fish and seafood dishes also called Civet. In the provincial areas can be made with giblets of game birds or squirrel.

Coulson, Francis;

Armed with his mothers’ recipes he started serving proper English Tea at the Sharrow Bay Country House Hotel in 1949. There is not much info about him on the net so I will have to do so more digging.

Roux, Albert and Michel;

French born restaurateurs working in Britain. La Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/) is their three Michelin star restaurant. They are widely given regard for reinventing restaurant service in Britain and most UK chefs consider them the most influential chefs in the country. Michel’s son Michel Jr. is also a two-starred Michelin chef who currently runs La Gavroche.

Smith, George Perry;

Long before the Roux brothers had come to England George Perry - Smith (he added the hyphen to his name as an adult) had been revolutionizing the way that people looked at food. His most famous restaurant was called The Hole in the Wall and was in Bath, England. A true thinker he combined classical with interpretation and the world rejoiced. Sadly he is no longer with us.

As you all can see I am learning the most wonderful things from two great teachers. But it is not limited to just Exec Chef and Head Chef. In fact their entire brigade is also taking the time to teach me things on a daily basis and it is gratefully appreciated. I am also learning about life through Reservation and though the hours are long and sometimes difficult I would not be happy anywhere other than where I am.

Albert Schweitzer once said; “I don't know what your destiny will be, but one thing I do know: the only ones among you who will be really happy are those who have sought and found how to serve.” Man am I HAPPY! Hope you all are happy to.

Have an inspired tomorrow and live, love and laugh for you never know.

All the best.

SDM

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