Care of my weekend I haven’t read more than a paragraph since Friday. But I have been reading, as I alluded to, in one of my weekend update posts, I have been reading a few books at the same time.
Of course, care of Ruhlman’s; “The Soul of a Chef” I decided to pick up his “The Making of a Chef.” In it Ruhlman is going through the first year of classes at the Culinary Institute of America. It follows him as he goes through his classes and the subtle transformation from Writer to Cook. I say subtle though I don’t think that anyone else would say that it was subtle.
Over the weekend I alluded to the fact that there are those of us that get it done and those that don’t. For cooks, all the world over, failure is not an option. Hung over, we show up. Sick, we show up. Short of dead, we show up. In his exploration, Ruhlman tells a story about a vicious snowstorm that threatened to keep him from school for a test. When he called the examining Chef Instructor, Ruhlman became stung when the Chef alluded to the fact that it was okay because he was not a real cook or chef. Subtly the Chef made the point that it didn’t matter the circumstance, cooks showed up. With his pride stung, Ruhlman too showed up and by doing so learned a very valuable lesson. One that will stay with him for life.
I’m not done “The Making of a Chef” yet. In fact it is currently in my locker at work as I was too tired to be bothered to bring it home on Sunday. Next week I will write some more about it.
I have also been reading “How I Learned to Cook; Culinary Educations from the World’s Greatest Chefs,” edited by Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meehan. Reading how the likes of Ferran Adria, Mario Batali, Raymond Blanc, Heston Blumenthal, Daniel Boulud and others came to learn to cook is as illuminating for a young cook (i.e. me) as reading Aristotle’s; “The Politics” is for Political Science students.
What I gleaned from all these different Chefs is that there is no true set course that leads one to the kitchen. As I’m pounding out this entry before I have to go to work I will regal you with more next week when I have some time.
I came to this book through another that I picked up entitled; “ If You Can Stand the Heat; Tales from Chefs and Restaurateurs.”
And of course I’m still reading Bourdain’s; “A Cook’s Tour.” All of these will be covered next week when I have some more time.
Anton Chekhov once said; “Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice.”
Are you dreaming big and inspired?
A la prochaine
SDM
Showing posts with label Raymond Blanc. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Raymond Blanc. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Friday, May 30, 2008
Marco Pierre White (L’enfant Terrible and Modern Day Epicurus)
I’ve just now finished reading Marco Pierre White’s incredible autobiography entitled “The Devil in the Kitchen” and I am firmly convinced that he is one of the best chefs the world has ever known and, to my mind, a modern day Epicurus (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epicurus).
From humble beginnings Chef White rose to become the most successful Chef in Britain and quite possibly the world. To put this in perspective Chef White has worked with the finest names in gastronomy (a point I will elaborate on later) and at the tender age of 33 (coincidence with my decision to join a kitchen???) was awarded the highest possible acclaim that any Chef can aspire to. He was awarded the highest honour of 3 Michelin Stars as well as five red forks and knives that relates to service, ambiance, décor, etc. His restaurants have consistently put out amazing dishes and have always attracted the highest strata of clientele. But I digress; I need to explain how he got there first.
Chef White was born in 1961 in Leeds. His father was a Chef at a hotel not far from where he grew up and a greyhound gambler and his mother was the duteous wife who took care of he and his brothers. His mother died in front of him at the tender age of six and this would have an enormous impact on his life in numerous ways. The first being obvious, he lacked the necessary motherly influence that all boys need. Secondly, his father was unable to cope with the stresses of raising the boys on his own and had to send his youngest brother to be raised by his mothers’ family in Italy.
Early on Chef White nurtured a flair for fantastic business acumen, including selling one of his fathers prized dogs for a profit, without his fathers knowledge or consent. This gave way to his getting an appetite for business. A fateful conversation with his father as a young man would lead to his decision to pursue the glorious pursuit. His father advised him that e should become a Chef because; “People were always going to need to be fed.” Running with this Chef White began a marvelous journey that lasted 21 years and quite possibly 109,000 hours at 100 hours a week. (Thinking about it now, I know I have enough Uber human strength to pull the work ethic off)
I am uncertain as to whether it was extraordinary timing and a bit of luck or a lot of luck and good timing but Chef White was able to parlay each experience he had into another that was positive and rewarding. I would also like to state at this point that Edison once said; “Genius is one percent inspiration and ninety nine percent perspiration.” Chef White rose through the ranks with a tireless work ethic, an eye for detail and a passion for the pursuit of excellence, at first as defined by others, and then in time, as defined by himself.
His storied career took him from Leeds, to the Box Tree at the ripe age of eighteen (http://www.theboxtree.co.uk/) where he really excelled and developed his personal flair. I’m not sure if this where he came up with the following belief but I do know that it has served him (and doubtless every other Chef well); “A recipe is one thing, but METHOD is another. It’s about understanding and questioning what you are trying to do.” The Box Tree revealed to him what the world of Cheffing could be like. Both with its ups and downs and of the harsh brutality of the industry.
After leaving the Box Tree he looked at both Chewton Glen (as I mentioned in my previous post) and Le Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/). In “ The Devil in the Kitchen,” Chef White explains that when the application form for Le Gavroche arrived and it was all written in French he took that as a sign that they only wanted French Chefs and as such had then turned his attention to Chewton Glen. I assume after some somber thought while he was in London (and another once of those chance, luck time continuums) he missed his train home and decided that as he was in London he would walk over to Le Gavroche and see what was what. When he got there it was virtually empty but was told that he could go to Roux Brothers (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_Roux http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michel_Roux) HQ.
Upon walking into Albert Roux’s office and asking for a job the interview was quite simple. He was asked where he had worked and upon mentioning the Box Tree and eighteen months of service there was told to go home and get his things and report back on Monday. Doing this was the best decision a young Chef could have made.
The Roux Brothers, especially Albert had a tremendous influence of Chef White and aided him to see everything that he needed in order to become the best in the world. From the Roux Brothers he ended up with Pierre Koffmann at the renowned La Tainte Claire. Each step was monumental in forming the man, the chef and what he certainly will be known as the legend. In every way as important as Escoffier (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auguste_Escoffier) is. His experiences with Koffmann led him to the venerable and insanely talented Raymond Blanc (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Blanc) at Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons (http://www.manoir.com/web/olem/olem_a2a_home.jsp) which you’ll recall I wrote about his cookbook in the post http://newbieintheweeds.blogspot.com/2008/02/brunch-smiles-are-free.html and then with Nico Ladenis (http://www.chefdb.com/nm/6380/ ) at Chez Nico.
The last two paragraphs outline perhaps the greatest possible training that a Chef could ever want or receive. He worked under and with legends that recognized his work ethic, passion, drive and talent and one step always led to the next. The above names are legends, originators, re-inventors if you will, of the highest order. Each had a definite and defined impact on the life of Chef White and I believe it shows.
As so often happens in moments of unparalleled serendipity, Chef White was the product of legends to become one himself. THAT HAS TO FILTER DOWN. There has to be an equal and opposite reaction. As a result, the many Michelin Starred Chefs that have been a product of Chef White’s influence reads like a who’s who of the modern gastronomic world;
Of Babbo and Del Posto fame (http://www.mariobatali.com/ ) Mario Batali
Of The Fat Duck (http://www.fatduck.co.uk/ ) fame is Heston Blumenthal
Of the Capital Group (http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar_eric.html ) Eric Chavot
Of Aubergine and Hell’s Kitchen fame Gordon Ramsay (http://www.gordonramsay.com/ )
Neither of these lists is exhaustive by any stretch but it does illustrate the point that genius comes together and produces something spectacular and what a ride it must have been.
Naturally for success there has to be failure and one of the things that I learned from reading Chef White is that failure has to be your guide. Through the little glances into his world I can see that he is much more reflective that people thought (my assumption) and that he has quite a head on his shoulders apart from the flame.
After reading “The Devil in the Kitchen” I have a newly formed desire to be the best. Not just good. The best! It is within reach. It is possible and from reading Chef White’s book I get the necessary ambition, energy, drive, passion, skill and talent that it will take to do it. BUT ALL THINGS ARE POSSIBLE.
I strongly recommend that you read this book for yourself. I finished it in a day and a half and that is with the very little amount of time that I have.
On a personal note (like they all aren’t here, a duh) I would like to express my profound respect to Chef White for having accomplished the “impossible.” Your lead has made it maybe a step easier or harder I’m not sure which yet for me to get to where I want to be. I am inspired and enthralled by everything you have done and can finally see in an experiential way what needs to get done, both personally and professionally. Thank you for your lead and your example. It is AMAZING.
I have a couple more posts to write today so I think that is as good a place as any to end this one. But as usual, Epicurus once said; “You don't develop courage by being happy in your relationships everyday. You develop it by surviving difficult times and challenging adversity.”
BE INSPIRED AND DREAM BIG TODAY!
A la prochaine
SDM
From humble beginnings Chef White rose to become the most successful Chef in Britain and quite possibly the world. To put this in perspective Chef White has worked with the finest names in gastronomy (a point I will elaborate on later) and at the tender age of 33 (coincidence with my decision to join a kitchen???) was awarded the highest possible acclaim that any Chef can aspire to. He was awarded the highest honour of 3 Michelin Stars as well as five red forks and knives that relates to service, ambiance, décor, etc. His restaurants have consistently put out amazing dishes and have always attracted the highest strata of clientele. But I digress; I need to explain how he got there first.
Chef White was born in 1961 in Leeds. His father was a Chef at a hotel not far from where he grew up and a greyhound gambler and his mother was the duteous wife who took care of he and his brothers. His mother died in front of him at the tender age of six and this would have an enormous impact on his life in numerous ways. The first being obvious, he lacked the necessary motherly influence that all boys need. Secondly, his father was unable to cope with the stresses of raising the boys on his own and had to send his youngest brother to be raised by his mothers’ family in Italy.
Early on Chef White nurtured a flair for fantastic business acumen, including selling one of his fathers prized dogs for a profit, without his fathers knowledge or consent. This gave way to his getting an appetite for business. A fateful conversation with his father as a young man would lead to his decision to pursue the glorious pursuit. His father advised him that e should become a Chef because; “People were always going to need to be fed.” Running with this Chef White began a marvelous journey that lasted 21 years and quite possibly 109,000 hours at 100 hours a week. (Thinking about it now, I know I have enough Uber human strength to pull the work ethic off)
I am uncertain as to whether it was extraordinary timing and a bit of luck or a lot of luck and good timing but Chef White was able to parlay each experience he had into another that was positive and rewarding. I would also like to state at this point that Edison once said; “Genius is one percent inspiration and ninety nine percent perspiration.” Chef White rose through the ranks with a tireless work ethic, an eye for detail and a passion for the pursuit of excellence, at first as defined by others, and then in time, as defined by himself.
His storied career took him from Leeds, to the Box Tree at the ripe age of eighteen (http://www.theboxtree.co.uk/) where he really excelled and developed his personal flair. I’m not sure if this where he came up with the following belief but I do know that it has served him (and doubtless every other Chef well); “A recipe is one thing, but METHOD is another. It’s about understanding and questioning what you are trying to do.” The Box Tree revealed to him what the world of Cheffing could be like. Both with its ups and downs and of the harsh brutality of the industry.
After leaving the Box Tree he looked at both Chewton Glen (as I mentioned in my previous post) and Le Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/). In “ The Devil in the Kitchen,” Chef White explains that when the application form for Le Gavroche arrived and it was all written in French he took that as a sign that they only wanted French Chefs and as such had then turned his attention to Chewton Glen. I assume after some somber thought while he was in London (and another once of those chance, luck time continuums) he missed his train home and decided that as he was in London he would walk over to Le Gavroche and see what was what. When he got there it was virtually empty but was told that he could go to Roux Brothers (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_Roux http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michel_Roux) HQ.
Upon walking into Albert Roux’s office and asking for a job the interview was quite simple. He was asked where he had worked and upon mentioning the Box Tree and eighteen months of service there was told to go home and get his things and report back on Monday. Doing this was the best decision a young Chef could have made.
The Roux Brothers, especially Albert had a tremendous influence of Chef White and aided him to see everything that he needed in order to become the best in the world. From the Roux Brothers he ended up with Pierre Koffmann at the renowned La Tainte Claire. Each step was monumental in forming the man, the chef and what he certainly will be known as the legend. In every way as important as Escoffier (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auguste_Escoffier) is. His experiences with Koffmann led him to the venerable and insanely talented Raymond Blanc (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Blanc) at Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons (http://www.manoir.com/web/olem/olem_a2a_home.jsp) which you’ll recall I wrote about his cookbook in the post http://newbieintheweeds.blogspot.com/2008/02/brunch-smiles-are-free.html and then with Nico Ladenis (http://www.chefdb.com/nm/6380/ ) at Chez Nico.
The last two paragraphs outline perhaps the greatest possible training that a Chef could ever want or receive. He worked under and with legends that recognized his work ethic, passion, drive and talent and one step always led to the next. The above names are legends, originators, re-inventors if you will, of the highest order. Each had a definite and defined impact on the life of Chef White and I believe it shows.
As so often happens in moments of unparalleled serendipity, Chef White was the product of legends to become one himself. THAT HAS TO FILTER DOWN. There has to be an equal and opposite reaction. As a result, the many Michelin Starred Chefs that have been a product of Chef White’s influence reads like a who’s who of the modern gastronomic world;
Of Babbo and Del Posto fame (http://www.mariobatali.com/ ) Mario Batali
Of The Fat Duck (http://www.fatduck.co.uk/ ) fame is Heston Blumenthal
Of the Capital Group (http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar_eric.html ) Eric Chavot
Of Aubergine and Hell’s Kitchen fame Gordon Ramsay (http://www.gordonramsay.com/ )
Neither of these lists is exhaustive by any stretch but it does illustrate the point that genius comes together and produces something spectacular and what a ride it must have been.
Naturally for success there has to be failure and one of the things that I learned from reading Chef White is that failure has to be your guide. Through the little glances into his world I can see that he is much more reflective that people thought (my assumption) and that he has quite a head on his shoulders apart from the flame.
After reading “The Devil in the Kitchen” I have a newly formed desire to be the best. Not just good. The best! It is within reach. It is possible and from reading Chef White’s book I get the necessary ambition, energy, drive, passion, skill and talent that it will take to do it. BUT ALL THINGS ARE POSSIBLE.
I strongly recommend that you read this book for yourself. I finished it in a day and a half and that is with the very little amount of time that I have.
On a personal note (like they all aren’t here, a duh) I would like to express my profound respect to Chef White for having accomplished the “impossible.” Your lead has made it maybe a step easier or harder I’m not sure which yet for me to get to where I want to be. I am inspired and enthralled by everything you have done and can finally see in an experiential way what needs to get done, both personally and professionally. Thank you for your lead and your example. It is AMAZING.
I have a couple more posts to write today so I think that is as good a place as any to end this one. But as usual, Epicurus once said; “You don't develop courage by being happy in your relationships everyday. You develop it by surviving difficult times and challenging adversity.”
BE INSPIRED AND DREAM BIG TODAY!
A la prochaine
SDM
Monday, February 4, 2008
Brunch (Smiles are Free)
As I arrived at work I was a little tired (as I had stayed for a couple drinks after work) however I did not feel it and it did not show. Clearly the conversations had with Exec Chef, Head Chef and the Saucier had made me feel pretty good and as I have been working at Reservation I have not found myself tired in the least. In fact I am bubbling over with energy and feel as if a Super Nova has exploded within me. Or at least a Foie Gras with Petit Brioche.
So I set up for the brunch that includes fresh made waffles, roast beef, pea meal bacon, pasta, eggs, omelettes, pierogis, potatoes, French toast, bacon, sausage, pasta, smoked salmon and all kinds of other things. It truly is a luxurious spread that might have been served to the Kings and Queens of yester year while the peasants were eating dirt.
Sure enough I had been put on the carving/waffle station but as we were understaffed yesterday I also was making some omelettes. I only made ten or twelve but as I made them each one got better and better. At the meat station I learned that I needed to cut the meat straight otherwise you are putting too much meat on the plate. You want to try and add balance to the plate and make sure that you cut thinly as well. This was fairly easy given the new carving knife that Exec Chef had given me and I also got to borrow his carving knife for the pea meal as you never want cross contamination. It was a great present to receive and it worked like the roast beef was butter.
I learned that it is important for you to speak up with your ideas in the kitchen. There absolutely is a way to do things in our kitchen but there may be a better way to plate something or to tweak a flavour. Even if your idea gets shot down it is an illustration of your passion for food and will always be well received. Even a newbie like me can add something.
While doing my duties in the front of house on several occasions people noted my broad smile and asked what was up. I would always answer that I am exceptionally well and why wouldn’t I be as I am living my dream, doing exactly what it is I want for my life. One woman said to me that it shows that I am happy because I am shining both inside and out. I haven’t heard something like that in a while and it was just another reassurance that I am in the right place. Yet another woman who had not been smiling had a massive smile come across her face and said that it was refreshing to hear that in this day and age. She came back a couple times just to see my smile. Yet another older lady was doing something for Shrove Tuesday for the office and wanted to know a few things. I answered her questions and then told her that a great resource for all things food is www.epicurious.com. She was going to do waffles and some crepes. I asked if she wanted savoury or sweet to which she said sweet. I suggested to her that she might want to rock convention and go with a savoury crepe scented with rosemary, sage or chive with a nice cheese sauce or clarified butter. For the sweet I recommended a peaces and cream with scent of cinnamon. She laughed and thanked me profusely three times and the again as she left.
By the way for any of you Jazz enthusiasts out there (I LOVES MY JAZZ!!!!) Reservation has live Jazz on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. During brunch it is a great treat for me because most of the people there are not jazz fans (perhaps more correctly enthusiasts because really how can you not like jazz). But I always ask Mr. DH if he could play me a few tunes and I tell him what they are. Sure enough he does and he smiles because I am so into Jazz and some of the songs I pick are obscure.
While the brunch was slowing down my prep master L and I started having a conversation about the world and the way that things work. He was asking me some questions about geopolitics and how certain things happen. I was happy to explain it to him and for every question I answered he would have another question. It was nice that my intellectual savvy (and what I went to University for) with regard to world events could help to broaden someone else’s point of view and understanding of world events. Just another thing to add the; “What is I am living my dream finally, Alex?”
After brunch we of course had to break everything down which took about an hour. After which it was time for an extremely messy job (under the category but someone’s got to do it) of scrubbing, pressure washing, sweeping and mopping the front line. It is an exacting and time-consuming process not to mention dirty. But it must get done and I see it all as part of the learning experience that is making me a better cook and a better man.
Before Exec Chef had left for the day I asked if he could loan me another book that I will ravenously rip through tomorrow. He loaned me Raymond Blanc’s Recipes from Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons. For those of you who are unaware Raymond Blanc (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Blanc ) He is a true visionary and a master. His Michelin stars speak for themselves and his restaurants are among the most frequented by those in the know. I can hardly wait to read it tomorrow, making my notes, perhaps sipping a red wine and laughing at myself that it had taken so long for me to jump into a kitchen.
Steven Wright once said; “"I went to a restaurant that serves 'Breakfast at any time’. So I ordered French Toast during the Renaissance." I think that I would have Cake during the French Revolution or perhaps Tripe during the Russian Revolution or finally perhaps a Cubana during the Cuban Revolution. What would you order?
I hope you have an inspired today and an awesome tomorrow.
SDM
So I set up for the brunch that includes fresh made waffles, roast beef, pea meal bacon, pasta, eggs, omelettes, pierogis, potatoes, French toast, bacon, sausage, pasta, smoked salmon and all kinds of other things. It truly is a luxurious spread that might have been served to the Kings and Queens of yester year while the peasants were eating dirt.
Sure enough I had been put on the carving/waffle station but as we were understaffed yesterday I also was making some omelettes. I only made ten or twelve but as I made them each one got better and better. At the meat station I learned that I needed to cut the meat straight otherwise you are putting too much meat on the plate. You want to try and add balance to the plate and make sure that you cut thinly as well. This was fairly easy given the new carving knife that Exec Chef had given me and I also got to borrow his carving knife for the pea meal as you never want cross contamination. It was a great present to receive and it worked like the roast beef was butter.
I learned that it is important for you to speak up with your ideas in the kitchen. There absolutely is a way to do things in our kitchen but there may be a better way to plate something or to tweak a flavour. Even if your idea gets shot down it is an illustration of your passion for food and will always be well received. Even a newbie like me can add something.
While doing my duties in the front of house on several occasions people noted my broad smile and asked what was up. I would always answer that I am exceptionally well and why wouldn’t I be as I am living my dream, doing exactly what it is I want for my life. One woman said to me that it shows that I am happy because I am shining both inside and out. I haven’t heard something like that in a while and it was just another reassurance that I am in the right place. Yet another woman who had not been smiling had a massive smile come across her face and said that it was refreshing to hear that in this day and age. She came back a couple times just to see my smile. Yet another older lady was doing something for Shrove Tuesday for the office and wanted to know a few things. I answered her questions and then told her that a great resource for all things food is www.epicurious.com. She was going to do waffles and some crepes. I asked if she wanted savoury or sweet to which she said sweet. I suggested to her that she might want to rock convention and go with a savoury crepe scented with rosemary, sage or chive with a nice cheese sauce or clarified butter. For the sweet I recommended a peaces and cream with scent of cinnamon. She laughed and thanked me profusely three times and the again as she left.
By the way for any of you Jazz enthusiasts out there (I LOVES MY JAZZ!!!!) Reservation has live Jazz on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. During brunch it is a great treat for me because most of the people there are not jazz fans (perhaps more correctly enthusiasts because really how can you not like jazz). But I always ask Mr. DH if he could play me a few tunes and I tell him what they are. Sure enough he does and he smiles because I am so into Jazz and some of the songs I pick are obscure.
While the brunch was slowing down my prep master L and I started having a conversation about the world and the way that things work. He was asking me some questions about geopolitics and how certain things happen. I was happy to explain it to him and for every question I answered he would have another question. It was nice that my intellectual savvy (and what I went to University for) with regard to world events could help to broaden someone else’s point of view and understanding of world events. Just another thing to add the; “What is I am living my dream finally, Alex?”
After brunch we of course had to break everything down which took about an hour. After which it was time for an extremely messy job (under the category but someone’s got to do it) of scrubbing, pressure washing, sweeping and mopping the front line. It is an exacting and time-consuming process not to mention dirty. But it must get done and I see it all as part of the learning experience that is making me a better cook and a better man.
Before Exec Chef had left for the day I asked if he could loan me another book that I will ravenously rip through tomorrow. He loaned me Raymond Blanc’s Recipes from Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons. For those of you who are unaware Raymond Blanc (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Blanc ) He is a true visionary and a master. His Michelin stars speak for themselves and his restaurants are among the most frequented by those in the know. I can hardly wait to read it tomorrow, making my notes, perhaps sipping a red wine and laughing at myself that it had taken so long for me to jump into a kitchen.
Steven Wright once said; “"I went to a restaurant that serves 'Breakfast at any time’. So I ordered French Toast during the Renaissance." I think that I would have Cake during the French Revolution or perhaps Tripe during the Russian Revolution or finally perhaps a Cubana during the Cuban Revolution. What would you order?
I hope you have an inspired today and an awesome tomorrow.
SDM
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