Water Off a Rock (file under I’m a Duck… Quack Quack)

So the past couple of days have been strenuous. Thursday was a busy night and saw me so busy that from 6 until 8:30 pm my board was never clear. Once it was clear I breathed a sigh of relief and thought to myself how dreadfully hot it was going to be in July there.

Wednesday was filled with aggravation and a schizophrenic approach to the Grill. I wasn’t open, I was open, I wasn’t open. We decided, or so I thought, how we were going to deal with it by making food indoors for people indoors and outdoor people outdoors. But of course, schizophrenia kicked in and no one was either willing or able to remember what we had decided. As such I went from nothing set up to set up in about twelve minutes and four orders on the board. To say that I was angry would be an understatement.

Being angry and cooking is not a good place to be. I believe that it affects the food and the way that you deliver it. So on Thursday, after my first rush, Sous Chef R came out and we spoke about what was going on. I explained that I was frustrated by the “institutional” schizophrenia and the disconnect between the front of house and back of house. As our conversation ended he said that The Club would drive you mad if you let it. So I asked him how he deals with it.

He explained that you have to let it just drop off your back. Like water off a rock. I thought about what he said for a minute and responded by saying. Great, I’m a duck. QUACK QUACK.

It was a good thing he gave me that as a resource because on Friday morning I had to deal with some stress and thought to myself, water off a rock, water off a rock. By the time Friday night had come around I was now QUACK QUACKING at anything that deserved it.

It makes me smile and giggle to know that I can instantly change my mental state by something as simple as quacking.

I am going to write much more tomorrow but wanted to update everyone on this week.

The Earl of Beaconsfield once said; “The secret of success in life is for a man to be ready for his opportunity when it comes.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

An Introduction (file under Busy but Good)

Yesterday was a great day. At first it looked as if the weather was not going to cooperate. In fact it was cold and cloudy. But then, as so often happens by the lake, the weather changed and like magic I had a beautiful night. I had prepared for a moderately busy night and found myself scrambling quite a bit. It was a sign of things to come.

It was a lot of fun. At my busiest I had six chits up with a total of fourteen different dishes. This week I am serving Halibut, Jerk Chicken Breast, Striploins and Turkey Burgers. I switch up the rice everyday and have now started playing with my vegetables so that they are different from the ones used inside.

I was able to make the plates look really pretty at first. Picking and choosing how I would put the vegetables on the plate. The mix I am using right now is Carrots, Asparagus, Baby Bok Choi, Yellow Zucchini as well as red and green peppers. The mix is really pretty and offers colour and texture to the plates.

Today I have to go in early because I have so much prep to do. Everything I prepped yesterday is pretty much exhausted. So I will be going in a couple of hours early in order to accomplish the prep that I need to get done. The forecast says we are in for a nice day so I am expecting to get slammed royally. Which I love.

Moreover, I had three Members come and chat with me at my station last night. One said that I made her the best steak she had ever had. I had cooked it medium and truthfully I’m kind of shocked because to me (though it is a matter of personal preference) the only real way to eat steak, especially high quality steak, is medium rare. But I thanked her for her compliment and she assured me that we would get to know each other over the summer. I thanked her and wished her a great night.

Another Member had the Jerk Chicken Breast and said it was amongst the best he had ever eaten. I have to give most of the credit to Sous Chef R on that one as all I did was cook it. And I have to admit the Jerk recipe he prepared is amongst the best that I have ever had.

Finally another member told me that I had cooked the Halibut to perfection and that the pineapple salsa was a delicious compliment to the dish.

So not only am I working my little butt off in the kitchen but I am working my little butt off outside of it too. I’m managing the photographer globally that I mentioned before. You can check him out at www.michaelwilliampaul.com. He is amazing and we are working on some brilliant projects together that are going to see us traveling quite extensively. I will write more on this as the details become clearer.

It is amazing what happens in your life when you let go of your ego and allow your spirit to soar.

Da Vinci once said; “Where the spirit does not work with the hand there is no art”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Today is A New Day (file under Thank God for That)

I apologize for my inability to write for the last few days but I have been whirling dervish working really quickly to put something beautiful together which I will update you on later.

I had numerous days off this week due to the inclement weather. One on hand it sucked (that being I need the money) on the other it didn’t. In that it gave me time to put together this beautiful project.

Yesterday was an emotionally and physically difficult day. The weather couldn’t decide whether it was going to open up or whether it was going to be beautiful. As such at the Club there was a schizophrenic approach to deciding whether or not to open. Usually I would be open at five but in order to open at five I need about two hours of lead time in order to prep properly. Well the decision was made (inappropriately) by a supervisor that the patio would open before that Chef made determination. To make matters worse that same Supervisor started to take orders right away.

There is no worse position for a cook to be in from the very beginning of service than behind. Granted there were not a lot of people to be served but that is not the point. I struggled along with Sous Chef R and another helper to get the station set in one quarter the usual time which was both physically exhausting and spiritually draining.

I had a few orders. Barely enough to justify the expense of being open. However, that is not my call and I do what I am supposed to do. But at the first sign of rain, as I had last year (read actual rain falling) I closed the fryer but was happy to continue to serve everything else. That same Supervisor came out and I told him that I had to close the fryer. I explained that it was a Safety risk to my person and that at the moment it was a non issue because I had no orders that required it and that furthermore that fries could be done from inside the kitchen. He decided that I was incorrect and was less than caring about my needs. As such I looked at him and said if you want to have that attitude with me than I am refusing to work with the fryer on Health and Safety reasons.

I did not want to take it to that point. I was happy to work the BBQ and the fryer as long as there was no rain. As I mentioned numerous times last year – rain and 400 degree fryer fat do not mix well. The result of rain falling in the fryer is a massive explosion of four hundred degree droplets of fat. My arms are littered from the result of those droplets from last year.

Once the rain passed I reopened the fryer and went about my business. I was extremely angry that a Supervisor seemed to be so indifferent to my own personal safety and instead was motivated by the Members’ needs, wants and desires. I too care about the Members but not to the sacrifice of my own personal safety.

I did go back to him at the end of the night and explained my position. Today with the time to cool down overnight I feel that my hand was forced and that I had to make that statement in order to protect myself. Moreover, I would make that decision again as Executive Chef’s instruction to me from the very beginning was make sure that you get the lid on the fryer at the first fall of rain.

I only served about forty covers total. Barely enough to justify the expense. But definitely not enough to account for the physical and emotional toll of the day.

Today however, is a new day. I look forward to it. The weather is gorgeous and though I know I am going to get hit hard. I welcome it. I look forward to it. Because today is a new day.

I hope that you all get out and enjoy this beautiful day.

Ralph Waldo Emerson once said; “Finish each day and be done with it. You have done what you could. Some blunders and absurdities no doubt crept in, forget them as soon as you can. Tomorrow is a new day, you shall begin it well and serenely...”

Be inspired today.

A la prochaine

SDM

Prep Day (file under Rain!)

Yesterday was an exciting day. As the weather was not ideal for patio service I called Executive Chef at around 11and asked whether or not I should come in. Graciously he said that I could come in and do some prep so that I would get some hours. While on that call we spoke about the Gong Show that happened on Sunday. He asked if we went through a lot of product. I said that I felt that because of the myriad of problems we probably had to comp a lot of food. I also said that we should have a better contingency plan for when the system goes down to make sure that the service is snafu free. He agreed. I also made sure to point out that both kitchens were firing food as quick as we could under adverse circumstances and that I felt we did a great job. He agreed with both points that I made.

So I got to work around 2:30 and started banging out prep both for the line and for the grill. I butchered four sides of salmon and three striploin. I had butchered striploin before and noticed that I am actually quite good at it. It is a magical thing of beauty to clean a striploin properly and I became almost giddy as I portioned them off into 10 oz steaks. From three striploins I was able to get forty two portions with minimal waste. I feel that I maximized the product that we got out of the three.

Shortly after arriving at work Executive Chef came down and asked how I was doing. I told him I was feeling great. He said that I should just bang out what I could and then take off at my leisure. All in I spent about six hours doing prep work yesterday. He also handed me a sheet of paper, as he does each week, with the items that I would have to play with both for inside Bistros and specials and outsides menu. Thus, this week I have Halibut, Chicken, Shrimp, Striploin, Pork Tenderloin and Ribs.

I was very excited to have Halibut and Pork to play with. I haven’t decided what I am going to do with them yet but will post later today when I do. Moreover, I mentioned to Executive Chef that I wanted to keep Ribs on the menu each and every week and change the sauces. This is for three reasons, relative ease of preparation, margin and customer satisfaction. He agreed and a big smile came over his face.

Anyone in the Toronto area knows that the weather is less than great for outdoor service so I find myself with a day to get work done on my menu, on my side project, the blog and the wedding. So it is going to be a busy day but a great one.

Publilius Syrus once wrote; “Every day should be passed as if it were to be our last.”

Back soon my friends.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Insight from Executive Chef (file under Lucky to have Him as a Resource)

As I mentioned in my previous post I had the marvelous occasion to spend some time with old friends. I don’t get out very often – the men in their white coats try to keep me (great double entendre). At least I can get out every once and a while. Supervised visits and all.

At any rate it was a fabulous evening. Great friends. Great music. Great environment and absolutely fabulous Vodka/7’s. Thanks Stu. Shortly after arriving I went out for a cigarette knowing that I would find Executive Chef there. It was great seeing him and we both greeted each other like old comrades. Big hug and big smiles.

As always he was excited to hear how I was doing. What was going on with me and in my new job. I let him know that I landed well at The Club at which point he gave me his telling smile and a wink; “I knew you would.” In retrospect it was a great decision on his part to force me to go out and experience something else. Hindsight is always twenty twenty.

We spoke freely and easily about how he is enjoying being Executive Chef. His voice was even more gruff than usual as the Head Chef at one of the other restaurants is having a baby so he is working the pass expediting. Though tired he let me know that he is absolutely enjoying the job.

I let him know about my experiences at The Club and he gave me some great advice. Naturally I wanted to talk about the horror of handwritten chits. His eyes seemed to almost glaze over. A tell tale sign of his many experiences with handwritten chits. I expressed, as I did, in my previous post, the story as best I could. He asked how I handled it and I explained but then I asked him how he would have dealt with it. He explained that I had the right idea and that as time goes on I will find myself even better at dealing with the hiccups that are a very natural part of the kitchen experience.

Using the resources that are available to me I asked him numerous questions about brigades, kitchen issues, etc. He was, naturally, more than pleased to give me advice. I asked him about how to handle issues of keeping the brigade motivated in times of trouble. Again recounting my experience that had just happened. I made a rookie mistake in dealing with it he explained. In that I acknowledged the storm. He said that I didn’t need to do that. It’s obvious he explained that there is a storm. And the last thing you want to do is give any negativity to your crew when you are in a situation like that. He explained that you take a moment, which I did, but different from my experience he said that I should have said to them something to the effect of;

“Listen guys, we all know our jobs. We know what has to get done. We can do this, it is in our blood, and it is what we do. Now lets do it. COME ON!” We spoke about this for another few minutes and I feel that by using him as a resource I have become a better cook. Moreover that if this is to happen again I will have a better arsenal of tools at my disposal to motivate any brigade.

I also asked him about how to handle it when dishes are being put out incorrectly. He immediately grabbed an empty glass in front of him and the started role playing with me. There was one lemon in the glass and so he looked at me and said; “Is this your dish? Did you create it?” I playing along said; “no.” He said; “Well then why is there not two lemons in it.” I looked at him blankly still playing the role. He said; “Listen, this dish demands two lemons and a shot of vodka. Make sure that you put in the two lemons. Anything less and you are messing not just with the dish but also with the customers’ enjoyment. Now, make the dish right and put the two lemons in it.” I started to giggle because after he said it made perfect sense to me. He also said that one of my issues is that I am verbose and have an extensive diction at my disposal. He said that I need to avoid lots of words where only a few will do.

He also pointed out that in doing the dish wrong, while cheating the Chef and the customer, you are also cheating yourself. It is your heart and soul going into the dish he explained. Are you satisfied putting out a dish wrong he asked? Then lets get it right. Now do it again. He also told me that it is the responsibility of the Chef to ensure that the dishes are going out wrong. He said you don’t need to correct behaviours publicly but can pull them aside the first few times. After that he said that you can do it publicly. POWERFUL MOTIVATION.

I am grateful for him as a resource. He asked about C and I said she was back in a couple of weeks and that we would all get together for a drink. A big smile came over his face.



Over the course of our conversation that was about an hour he also said that he regretted that he did not have as much time for me as he would have liked when I was there. His tone was apologetic and I expressed that I understood. Nonetheless he did seem truly upset that he hadn’t had more time for me. But he made it clear that he is always there for me to answer any question I have.

Thanks Chef! For everything!

Dan Rather once said; “The dream begins with a teacher who believes in you, who tugs and pushes and leads you to the next plateau, sometimes poking you with a sharp stick called "truth.”

Kahil Gibran once said; “The teacher who is indeed wise does not bid you to enter the house of his wisdom but rather leads you to the threshold of your mind.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

No Chit (file under The Gong Show)

The kitchen is always an exciting place to work. There is a cacophony of sounds and the ever present ballet that I have spoken about many many times. Sometimes the kitchen can be more exciting as the controlled chaos has a curveball thrown at it. Yesterday was one of those days.

The day started off good enough. Got in and started making sure that everything was ready to go for what was sure to be a busy dinner service. Gorgeous afternoon and the lake was calm as could be. The members were out in droves and we clearly were going to get rocked. Though none of us could have known how badly.

Service started rolling at around 4:45. Everything was smooth. The patio was full; BBQ and kitchen were in full swing. We were running a well oiled machine for about an hour before the controlled chaos hit a wall. The computer system which is responsible for the printing of chits decided that it was such a nice day that it would take the day off. As such we went from out regular printed chits to hand written chits.

Hand written chits propose a number of issues. Handwriting is typically atrocious and to make matters worse it is not the servers that write out the chits but instead the Members themselves. Another is that there is no time on the hand written chit which means that we need to mark the time and find a way to keep track of orders with appetizers. As I have mentioned numerous times before, timing is critical and with handwritten chits it becomes difficult though not impossible to get through.

The first couple of chits this way were a nightmare. Appetizers and kids meals served at same time. Some orders had to be made in the kitchen while others were being prepared out at the BBQ. The delicate balance of the kitchen being thrown astray by trying to manage the delivery of food from two locations and very different time structures.

We found our rhythm after the first few chits with me calling out the orders to the grill and the pans as well as the Garde Manger. At first I was not getting any response from any of the brigade and had to make sure that they knew to acknowledge the call so that I could move on to the next call knowing that we were underway on the last chit. Calmly I only had to remind the brigade once to acknowledge the call. To overcome this adversity we started talking about the gong show. This lightened our mood and made it quite manageable.

Naturally the servers were running around like crazy trying to accommodate everything that was going on. At one point I had to ask one of the servers to leave the kitchen as he was trying to have a conversation with the Garde at the height of a service which had numerous challenges. At first he thought I was kidding at which point the Garde said; “Actually, in a nice way, he is trying to let you know, that you need to get the FUCK OUT OF THE KITCHEN.” He understood that to be sure. To which I replied; “Thanks guys.”

It would have been easy for everything to place us in the weeds. Instead, like the professionals we are we managed the situation as best we could. The beautiful controlled chaos returned after a few minutes of trying to figure out how best to organize.

Throughout the entire dinner rush we had to work with the handwritten chits. Ironically, when we put out the last chit the printer started spitting out chits. We all laughed. But then we had another issue because the servers started to enter their chits into the computer and as we do, when the chit comes up, we started preparing. When the first one came up I asked for confirmation that this was a real order. The answer came back no. Another chit. Another confirmation. No. Another chit, so on, for about five or six minutes. Another wrinkle worked out and then we had about three or four orders before we successfully managed a very tough dinner service, through adversity, without complaints and got all the food out in a timely fashion. IT FELT AWESOME. It was difficult but very rewarding and telling.

All during service we were also having to run things out to the BBQ. So there I am, calling chits, running prep out to the BBQ and sweating my balls off. A true case of Chef Ass. But I wouldn’t have changed anything. We rocked it. And it made me very proud.

I then got to go to the event described in my last post. In my next post I am relating a conversation had with Executive Chef about this experience and some advice that he gave me.

Horace once said; “Adversity has the effect of eliciting talents, which, in prosperous circumstances, would have lain dormant.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Great Cause, Great Friends, Great Night (file under I Love my Life)

“Joy - noun

Etymology:
Middle English, from Anglo-French joie, from Latin gaudia, plural of gaudium, from gaudēre to rejoice; probably akin to Greek gēthein to rejoice
Date: 13th century

1 a: the emotion evoked by well-being, success, or good fortune or by the prospect of possessing what one desires: delight b: the expression or exhibition of such emotion: gaiety
2: a state of happiness or felicity: bliss
3: a source or cause of delight”

Merriam/Webster

I am joyful today. Truly joyful. I went to support a great cause last night and in doing so got to hang out and catch up with old friends. The event was at Reservation and when I walked in I felt amazing. I was greeted with a warmth and generosity of spirit that is yet another positive factor in my decision to join a professional kitchen.

A good friend of mine if the Director of Community Development for Project Humanity. Please visit their website at www.projecthumanity.ca. It is an amazing not for profit group that does amazing work. Last nights event was called Shirts Off and is the second year in a row that I have made it. That being said if any of you have any old clothes in your closet or dressers that you would like to get rid of please contact Antonio Cayonne at antonio@projecthumanity.ca. I can promise you that he knows what to do with all the clothes that you no longer want.

Last night I witnessed the power of intention in full drive. When I got there I immediately started loading garbage bags of clothes into the truck. Last year it was a pretty good haul but this year I was really moved. There had to be about two or three hundred garbage bags of clothes. Next year I hope that we double that as the need is so great. So please, if you can, look through your closet and contact Project Humanity.

Another great benefit of being there last night was that I got to see my friend Ben Clost and his band the Emotionally Unavailable Mariners play. It is always such a delight for me to watch this band perform. They are truly engaging and make you feel in the depths of your soul the music they perform. It was a truly wonderful night and a truly magical experience.

These are but a few of the pictures of the band last night. Again, remember the name, Emotionally Unavailable Mariners, they are truly going places.








My next post is going to be about a conversation I had with Executive Chef.

A. Phillip Randolph once said; “A community is democratic only when the humblest and weakest person can enjoy the highest civil, economic, and social rights that the biggest and most powerful possess.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired? WHY NOT? And what can I do to help you?

A la prochaine

SDM

Finding my Legs (file under it’s a process)

Well, another great day down and another to come. Just finished a great conversation with the love of my life. Technology is amazing isn’t it? Sitting in front of my computer in Toronto I can talk on video with my lover in NYC seamlessly and for free. What a world!

Yesterday was another great day. With a station map drawn out and feeling a little more comfortable I had quite the experience. Setting up was relatively easy because I knew where I wanted things to go so that I could work efficiently and smartly. I can see how the station is difficult to work at the height of summer but I think as I refine and retool my station it will not represent a serious challenge.

At the height of service yesterday I had twelve chits up and that amounted to seventeen different items I had to prepare, at the same time, with a total of fifty four components. Timing is critical. Why you ask? Well, quite simply, a filet of Salmon cooks much faster than a well done steak. Or ribs!

I feel as if I have a pretty good handle on how to work the station. I know that it is going to be at times a ridiculously tough station but I have never backed down from a challenge. Nor will I. And the best part is I do it all with a smile. Knowing that I am living my dream and doing it with a great attitude and a beautiful smile (at least that’s what my love tells me).

The weather outside is absolutely gorgeous. Feels like about twenty degrees with a slight wind. That means that by the lake it is going to be around fifteen degree Celsius with a cool breeze. I should be busy but not overly so.

And I am excited because I am going to Reservation tonight to see one of my friends play with his band. Ben Clost and his band The Emotionally Unavailable Mariners. ABSOLUETLY INCREDIBLE. You should check him out in this video; http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.channel&ChannelID=132539289. AWESOME!

I don’t get to go out often which is one of the sacrifices you make to be in this industry. It will be nice to see all of my friends from Reservation. Executive Chef, Sous Chef A and the Director of Operations. I’m bringing my camera to take some pictures which should be fun.

So here is to an amazing day. I have tomorrow off which is one the reasons that I can go out tonight. I have lots to do tomorrow too. I need to tweak my menu a little bit more and get ready to roll out my first menu of the summer on Friday. I am excited for the coming week.

As well I would like to congratulate C on finishing her first full year at Stella Adler. I could not be more proud or happy. She had her first NYC show on Thursday and Saturday saw her in two performances. I wish I could have been there but I was in spirit. Next year I will absolutely be there. At any rate, way to go Babe.

Oliver Wendell Holmes once wrote; “The great thing in the world is not so much where we stand, as in what direction we are moving.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

The Grill (file under more like an outdoor kitchen)

So yesterday was my first day on the grill at The Club. It was exciting and a great cold start to the season. Cold meaning that I was not overly busy, busy, but not overly so. I had some time to figure out how I was going to set the station, drawing a station map and figuring out my organization for the station.

One of the biggest differences between the grill at The Club and that of Reservation is that it is truly a self contained outdoor kitchen. Reservation’s was really just a BBQ, a fridge and a freezer. At The Club the grill is in a shack that measures about five and a half feet wide by about fourteen feet long. It faces the lake and all the gorgeous boats that are in the water already. Within that space I have a 9 foot grill. TWO SINKS! I mention this in bold because at Reservation there was no sink, I would have to run inside or use a hand washing station. Two fridges, one a nine foot and one smaller cube. I also have a freezer. Two hot lamps, a pass, a printer for orders and two, TWO induction burners. And this is where it gets really interesting, there is a HOOD! For those of you who don’t know what a hood is it is the device which sucks the fumes and exhaust out of the area. Very handy when you are working forty feet from the lake. It truly is a stand alone outside kitchen.

So the menu that Executive Chef and Sous Chef R came up with this week is the following;

Chicken Souvlaki (all made in house), Tzatziki, Pita Bread and Sautéed Vegetables
Filet of Salmon with Cucumber Salsa and Sautéed Vegetables
Angus Sirloin Steak with Jus and Sautéed Vegetables
Fresh Turkey Burger
Back Ribs with an Apple Chipotle BBQ Sauce and Sautéed Vegetables
New Zealand Lamb Chops with Jus and Grilled Vegetable Ratatouille

Each of those items comes with your choice of sides which include Fries, Sweet Potato Fries, Baked Potato, House Salad or Rice.

Oh and I forgot to mention. At Reservation you’ll recall that I had to transport everything approximately one hundred and fifty meters across cobble stone roads to the barbeque. This was extremely annoying and had to be done twice a day. Once to set the station and then after a ridiculously long and hot day back to Reservation. At The Club it is about one hundred and twenty feet from the kitchen to my station. NO COBBLESTONES. It’s like I died and went to Grill heaven. You think I’m kidding? Trust me, I’m not.

Yesterday I did about one hundred orders. In all I prepared approximately two hundred meals. The components of which bring me up to approximately six hundred distinct items that I made yesterday from 5pm until around 9:30 pm. A great first day. Giving me the opportunity to reflect on last years experience, what this years experience is going to be and how I am going to become even better at what I do.

I think that my theme song for the Grill this year is going to be Van Morrison’s; Jackie Wilson Said. If you haven’t heard it lately I think now is a great opportunity to give it a listen because; I’m “going to let it all hang out.”

So with the first menu I have a concrete idea of the type of things that I am going to be doing for the summer menus. I am going to play a lot as I had mentioned before with condiments and sauces and I am also going to try to find interesting ways to expand and broaden peoples culinary experience. It is going to be a lot of fun. A lot of hard work. And extremely rewarding.

That being said I expect to get absolutely pounded today due to the gorgeous weather. And I could not be more thrilled. Its like a culinary drug, a super upper which makes me feel, well, effusive.

Today it is going to be 23 Celsius and partly cloudy. GORGEOUS. And it is kind of funny, those who know me know that I wear a hat each and every day. I have for almost twenty five years and it has caused my once blonde (almost white) hair to go much darker. But as I have rollerbladed home (when working mornings) I have been taking off my hate to get some sun to my hair and shock of shocks, my blonde hair is coming back. Another ancillary benefit. Now working days and being outside I expect that it will become even blonder.

So I hope that you all have as rewarding a day as I am going to. I would also like to send all my love and supportive energy to the love of my life, C, who is in her first New York City Show at Stella Adler. A sign of things to come – I think so.

Albert Camus once said; “In the depths of winter I finally learned there was in me an invincible summer”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

Menu Development (file under continuation of Creative Process)

In my post today on the creative process that I engage in when creating new dishes I explained how I go from ingredient to dish. Well when creating a menu the process is different. A dish is a stand alone item whereby a menu has to have a certain continuity and for lack of a better description ‘make sense.’

When creating a menu there are several factors which one needs to take into consideration. Some but not all will be true all of the time as certain factors are not applicable in certain settings. Therefore, what do I consider, in this time, as I am truly creating my first menu in a professional sense. Moreover, how do I develop that when I am creating new dishes each week? What follows is my explanation of how I am developing the menus for this summer.

It all starts with the ingredients. Every Chef on earth worth his or her weight in salt will tell you that it all starts with the ingredients. At The Club I am in an extraordinary environment that provides me the freshest and best ingredients available in Toronto as the first concern. I know that on a daily basis I am going to receive the best of the best, whether it is a strawberry or any manner of protein. If it is not the best The Club will send it back. This is due to two factors; one is the demand of our ‘captive’ consumer. The other is our desire to provide the best and most delicious dishes to continue pleasing our captive consumer, that being the Club Member.

As I have worked for the past few weeks I have looked at ingredients that are seasonal and available to me during the summer months. I have over the past year and a half assembled a list (lists) of what is available in Ontario that is fresh, local and seasonal. By no means is it exhaustive but it does represent a pretty thorough list. In Ontario we are spoiled by the amount of diversity that we have with regard to our produce and proteins. Once I understand what is available and when I have started to consider what it is that is going to please Club Members.

Ingredients (in this context) for me can be broken down as follows;

Protein (meat, game and fish)
Vegetables
Fruits
Staples.

In Ontario, as I mentioned above we are spoiled by the availability of gorgeous and delicious fruits and vegetables. Proteins too are in abundant supply. Due to the vast expanse of Ontario there are numerous growing regions and a wide variety of foodstuffs available.

As I mentioned in my post on the creative process it all starts with the ingredient. I used the example of Smoked Salmon in that post and how I wanted to do something that was based in a lengthy tradition but still could be tweaked into a new and exciting dish.
Purveyors are your best friends when developing a menu. They have their finger on the pulse of what is available and when. When certain things are cheaper and readily available and have the best quality. After considering the ingredients available the next step in the development is to consider what the purveyors are telling me is best right now. As I am working on a menu that is not static for months at a time I have an advantage of being able to change things on the fly.

For the summer I have created at this point approximately 50 dishes which each have a protein, a starch and a vegetable as well as a condiment and in some cases a garnish. As I have mentioned before, the customer is of paramount concern. What is their comfort zone? What do they like? Dislike? Can I expand their culinary palette? Do I need to play it safe? Where is the comfort zone? The happy medium?

Some of the produce I have looked at playing with over the summer are;

Apples
Apricots
Asparagus
Beans – Green/Wax
Beets
Blueberries
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Cherries
Corn
Crabapples
Currants – Red/Black
Eggplant
Gooseberries
Grapes
Leeks
Muskmelon
Mushrooms
Nectarines
Onions - Green
Peaches
Pears
Peas - Snow
Peppers - Field
Peppers - Greenhouse
Plums
Potatoes
Radishes
Rapini
Raspberries
Rutabaga
Spinach
Sprouts
Squash
Strawberries
Sweet Potatoes
Tomatoes - Field
Tomatoes - Greenhouse
Zucchini

Each of these are available to me from Ontario farmers according to seasonability. Each of these will be available to me this summer. The question then becomes how do you create something that is not commonplace which expands the horizons of peoples food comfort.

In my case I am going to play quite extensively with garnishes and condiments. As I roll out each menu I will explain to you my thought process, creativity and how I arrived at that ingredient and technique.

Proteins are readily available as are staples.

In developing the menu I consider the steps involved in the creation, the prep work, the ingredients, the end result, the mouth feel, smell, taste, texture, etc. I also consider regional and traditional cuisines from a round the world and whether or not I can expand peoples culinary horizons.

This weeks menu is being created by Executive Chef and then each week going forward we will bounce back and forth with each other to ensure that we are pleasing our Club Members.

I hope this has illustrated at least in general the things that I am considering in developing my menus this summer. As I get deeper into the summer I will explain how I created certain menus and the reasons behind their creation.

Anthony Bourdain once said; “A perfect meal is a confluence of forces – a certain sound in the background, the right smells in the air, who you’re eating with, it’s the colours, it’s EVERYTHING!” I hope this summer to create many perfect meals.

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Some More Interesting Viewing (file under cause I know you love it)

Eric Ripert; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDPln8cDL2Q

Anthony Bourdain; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfyxJifcAX8

Marco Pierre White; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bjQy0S6Un4

Masaharu Morimoto; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNyRCHMIWDw

Alice Waters; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGXhvS5UrU

Grant Achatz; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ilnl4SRv3hw

I have seen each of these numerous times now. One of the beautiful things in this age is that I have an endless supply of videos and information on the internet. What makes it beautiful is that you do too.

An old Chinese Proverb says; “Tell me and I'll forget; show me and I may remember; involve me and I'll understand.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

My Creative Process (file under Food Adventures)

When I originally started on this adventure I had a creative process that is very different from the one I have today. I would say that historically my creative process had been uninformed and chaotic. Not that that’s a bad thing but I’ve come to realize as I studied many of the worlds greatest Chefs that there is a much more detailed and rewarding way to create new dishes.

As a writer I am stream of consciousness and for a long time before joining a professional kitchen I applied the same process to cooking. I would go to the store or market as an open slate with little or no idea what I would be cooking that night. C has always loved shopping with me on these excursions because, I believe anyway, that there is a thrill to the uncertainty. It was exciting for me as well. I no longer, by necessity of experience, ‘fly by the seat of my pants.’ I apply a methodology which is heavily influenced by the worlds greatest Chefs. Adria, Achatz, Blumenthal, Alice Waters, Ripert and so many more. I have studied their methods with great interest and hopefully a better creative result.

I have to admit that much of my creative process is taken directly from Adria and Ripert. At the moment these are my two favorite Chefs and though their methods are different the result, on a high level, is the same, delicious and interesting food. For a great insight into Chef Adria's process look at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTuSZHO3GU8 .

The first step in my creative process is to look at (direct influence of Adria and Ripert);

Traditional Cuisine
Local Cuisine
Techniques

To date I have studied the following cuisines both experientially and through books and videos;

Classical French, Nouvelle Cuisine, Classical Italian, New Italian, Mediterranean, Cajun, Indian, Thai, Mexican, Chilean, Peruvian, Brazilian, Caribbean, Spanish, Californian, Moroccan, Irish, Scottish, Soul and Southern, German and some Chinese. I have studied as much as I can get on each of these cuisines and further have broken much of these cuisines down to the local level that is as varied as there are people on this planet. In total I would say that I have read approximately 150 books just on world cuisines making copious amounts of notes.

Thus the first thing I look at is the ingredient with which I want to play. After all, even though your parents always told you at the table not to play with your food, as a cook, I can say they were wrong. PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD. Once I have isolated the main ingredient I want to create with I then turn to traditional and local cuisines to identify the type of dish I would like to create. That is to say do I want to create a dish similar in style to Michael Guerard, meaning Nouvelle, or do I want to create a home style German Dish? Or do I want to create a spin on Pad Thai? These are but examples of a nearly inexhaustible list of dishes I have looked at.
Once I have identified the ingredient and the type of cuisine I would like to cook it in I then turn to the local cuisine or regional varieties of that dish and see how I can best use the ingredient. How I can accentuate the natural flavours of the ingredient without overpowering it? Within each cuisine there is an endless list of possibilities that you can play with.

The final step in the initial component of my creative process is to ask myself what techniques I would like to the ingredient and dish. It would take forever to illustrate all the techniques that could be applied but here is a partial list for illustration; Frying, Sautéing, Poaching, Steaming, Broiling, Baking, Roasting, Sous Vide and Confit.

Next in the process is to start looking at the traditional accompaniments. Do I want to make a traditional dish? Do I want to be adventurous and try something new? Do I want to use various components in different ways to arrive at a new result? Food is so glorious that there is an endless supply of inspirations that you can draw from.

Personally I have been exploring inspiration a lot recently. There is no end to where you can draw inspiration. I draw a lot of inspiration from my endless travels and my innate curiosity when confronted by something new. I also draw a lot of inspiration from nature, writing, music, art and architecture and culture. Recently art and architecture have been big influences on me. I do not want to be a purveyor of ‘haute cuisine’ in the vain of Alain Ducasse or Michael Guerard but that does not mean that I do not want to compose plates that are artistic in nature. I know that as I get closer to opening my own restaurant I will take some time to explore inspiration and innovation as a means of advancing my own personal culinary philosophy. This will entail lots of reading, travel and well LIVING!

When I was at Reservation I had numerous conversations with Executive Chef 1 and 2 (1 now being Director of Operations) and Sous Chef A about the creation of a new dish. With Executive Chef 1 I began to learn that there are a number of different considerations when creating a dish. From his description (and later Adria’s) I came to know that you need to consider flavours but also senses and the way that they receive the dish that you are creating. How does it smell? How does smell affect the dish? I remember seeing a show once about Achatz use of a Lavender scented pillow at Alinea and then having to send an email to him because I thought it was such a wild concept. One that was at the time out of my breadth of knowledge or experience. But it caused me to start thinking.

You also want to consider the way the dish looks. After all food is first a feast for the eyes. It is possible to just slap food on the plate and make it taste good but if you can visually impress the person eating the dish you will be able to exponentially increase the joy and wow factor of the dish for the consumer. You can play with shapes and sizes, plating, different plates, levels, colours, etc. The end result being a dish that really does awaken the senses through the initial impact of sight.

Taste is of course of utmost importance and trumps everything else. But taste is more than just umami, sweet, sour, bitter and salty. Taste can and does include the texture of what you are serving. Moreover you have to consider how the texture plays into the flavours. As well as texture (Soft, hard, crunchy, etc.) so too does the temperature affect taste and the way that the mouth receives the various tastes. It is a delicate balance of these considerations that really imparts the wow factor in a dishes taste component.

Chef Adria also illustrates that there is a sixth sense to food. It is that intangible that can not be measured. This involves as he points out the intellectual enjoyment of the food, the knowledge of where it came from, how it was prepared, the various elements, etc. It is truly intangible and possibly difficult to explain even for the consumer.

So now that I have explained the considerations I put into my creative process I want to illustrate with an example. Lets use a dish that I have started conceptualizing in the past year. It is about juxtaposition and utilizing technique and various ingredients that would not otherwise be put together. I am yet to try it but might at The Club this summer.

Smoked Salmon is one of my great pleasures. It has an awesome oily texture and a sweetness that is evocative of joy, at least in my experience. Knowing that I want to use Smoked Salmon I then ask myself; what do I want to do with it?

Due to the considerations of timing, organization, space, prep and all the other things I need to consider I thought about the various uses for it and how people most enjoy it. Commonly in Toronto Smoked Salmon is served on a bagel with cream cheese. At The Club with do Smoked Salmon sandwich, Eggs Benjamin (Eggs Benedict but instead of Peameal you use Smoked Salmon) and a Smoked Salmon Scramble Eggs. All of which are delicious incidentally. But because I am beginning to branch out in my creativity I started asking myself; what can I do that is different?

I started to consider natural pairings for Smoked Salmon which obviously are dill and cream cheese. Knowing these as the natural pairings I wanted to discover conceptually how I could use them in a new and different way without turning them on their head. Thus I thought about making a quesadilla. Instead of cream cheese I started to think about the texture of cream cheese and what cheeses I could use to replace it. Obviously the creamy cheeses are the mot natural fit because of their texture. This meant that I started to look at Brie, Camembert and Taleggio as obvious choices. Each imparts a different flavour and a moderately different texture. Personally I would like to have it with a nice double cream Brie. Though I will try all three. The next question was how to incorporate dill while not being traditional. Usually quesadillas are served with Salsa and Sour Cream. Knowing this I thought about either an avocado sour cream or a dill crème fraiche. Again I will try both.

The whole process of this conceptualization took about five minutes from beginning to end. But the concept is easy. Ideas are as the expression goes a dime a dozen. Next comes the real work. The experimentation. Trial and Error. PLAYING WITH MY FOOD. It may be that I get a better result with one Brie over another. Or Camembert. Or Taleggio. There are so many different varieties of those cheeses that it could take me months, years even, before I find the right texture and flavour that I want to impart on the dish. Moreover, I need to ask myself; how big do I want it to be? At what point do the flavours fall out of synchronicity? How do I want it to look, taste, feel?

As I start to play with the different variations I take notes as to the flavours, the way they interrelate, the effect no the senses, etc. These notes then become the way that I refine and fine tune the dish until ultimately I am happy with the result.

So this then is the way that I utilize a creative process to create new dishes and flavours. To date I have a repertoire of approximately 300 of my own recipes which are unique and will someday make it to my own menu in various forms. For the time being I continue to tweak and enhance them.

I hope this is somewhat useful to you in understanding my process.

As Chef Adria says; “Creativity means changing your mind everyday.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Some Interesting Viewing on Food Policy, GM Foods and The Future (file under follow up)

Sorry guys, its still in my mind and I wanted to share with you some of the things that I have been watching which give me cause to have great concern for the future of food.

Again, draw your own conclusions…

http://www.viddler.com/explore/farmsteadwines/videos/25/

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4147551008386395793&ei=xoAUSq6PBYraqQKoj7C7Bg&q=genetically+modified+food&emb=1

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4499930634181592531&ei=AoEUSvOpLqHqqgLL2rGuBg&q=genetically+modified+food&emb=1

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8098965482866581381&ei=VoEUSoq9K6HqqgLL2rGuBg&q=genetically+modified+food&emb=1

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8613276733389870510&ei=_oEUSsP_EpHwrgLVvPy4Bg&q=food+scarcity&emb=1

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4386232376777484955&ei=hIIUSuimGI24qQKqr6GrBg&q=water+scarcity&emb=1

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6262083407501596844&ei=o4IUSs-KBYK2rgLGraywBg&q=monsanto&emb=1

http://fora.tv/2006/02/13/J__Stephen_Lansing_A_Thousand_Years_in_Bali

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=733owHYcMf0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3XNwNyRsfI

These are but a few of the many, many, many documentaries I have seen on top of my wide reading on the subject. I wanted you all to have sources to look at for yourselves.

To steal a line from ‘The X- Files;’ “The Truth is Out There.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

And Now Back to Our Regularly Scheduled Blog (file under Exciting Times)

John Henry Newman in his ‘Apologia pro vita sua,’ said; “Growth is the only evidence of life.” And I could not agree more.

Today is my Saturday. To anyone outside the food industry that may sound like a weird statement but when you realize that weekends are usually our busiest times then you can understand that more often than not we are scheduled in such a way that our weekends fall when most of you are at your jobs.

The tile of my post today and the quote that I have used to frame it are the result of three posts written in the last week. The title specifically is in reference to my return to my capturing my daily experience and the quote represents what I feel each and every day. As I grow and continue on this path that I started on over a year and a half ago.

Over the next couple of days I am doing some menu development. Working on some of the items that I am going to include in my menu for the summer on the grill. You’ll recall (if you’ve read long enough) that last summer I was supposed to have the same opportunity at Reservation. The lack of willingness or inability on the part of Reservation to let me toy with the grill menu was extremely disheartening to me. While I understood, at least in part the logic behind it; that being that it was high volume and quick turnover, the whole experience left me feeling like I was nothing more than an over priced McDonalds, merely slinging food to the hungry throngs that wanted to sit and have a beer. As I remarked many times last year I developed relationships with my customers, many of whom returned each week, as they expressly told me, just to come and see me. That felt good, but it did not nearly make up for the emptiness I felt working the grill.

That is not to say that I did not learn things while working the grill. In fact, some of the lessons I learned were key to my early development as a line cook and still benefit me today. Those include understanding organization, timing, set up, pride of ownership and a few other lessons as well that were difficult at the time to choke down.

My experience at The Club so far has demonstrated that when people truly believe in you and what you are doing that they will give you the freedom to explore your own comfort zones. And unlike other places I’ve been they will not allow you to fall on your face but instead will do their utmost to ensure that you learn the lesson, not without pain, but certainly without the deepening void which can taint and corrupt even the most strong willed of people. Executive Chef and I as well as Sous Chef and I have had conversations about the grill. Numerous in fact. And with each one I feel my resolve building, my excitement at the opportunity of creating my own culinary voice and demonstrating what I can do when given the opportunity. The first menu will be of Executive and Sous Chefs design. I asked for this to be the case so that I can get comfortable with the environment, demands and the people for the first week or so.

After that time I will start developing my own menu each week. This will consist of multiple proteins. A fish, a beef dish, possibly a pork dish as well as a few specials. I have slowly but surely been building my menu and today and tomorrow (my Sunday) I will be working on them for several hours.

By doing so I will have multiple posts to write. One of which will include my creative process, the process of menu creation, what I want to try and possibly a couple of others. I am feeling quite good (despite the last few posts being on my mind) and know that I have lots to accomplish in the next two days.

As well I am excited and thrilled for the love of my life C, whose show ‘Spinning the Butter’ goes on at Stella Adler starting tomorrow. Today is about refinement and tweaking and then the show must go on. I wish I could afford to be there but unfortunately I can not. My spirit and energy are with her as I know that she will be fabulous. She always is.

With that said, I need to stop writing now and get to the work that is a ahead of me. I also have to clean the house. Which anyone that knows me can tell you, I really dislike cleaning. But I have the time and it needs to get done. Stay tuned; the next couple of days are going to have a flurry of posts. I hope you will enjoy them as much as I enjoy doing the work necessary to relate my experience to you.

Buddy Hackett once said; “As a child my family's menu consisted of two choices: take it or leave it” My menus will feature many more choices.

Are you dreaming big and inspired? Why not? And how can I help?

A la prochaine

SDM

Urban Farming Cont… (file under Sorry needed some rest…)

As you’ll recall I ended yesterdays post with Section 25, Subsection 1 of the United Nation Universal Declaration of Human Rights. As it is not germane to this conversation I will not touch on the United Nations. But this document was the result of a period of prolonged war and strife from which a new system had to develop. The Declaration, in and of itself is a beautiful document, in the same way I look at the Canadian Constitution (which in point of fact is a myriad of documents) and the American Declaration of Independence and Constitution. However, these documents are living, they need to evolve, to accept the realities that are ever present and constantly changing. But I don’t want to get into the high politics associated with that statement. Instead I want to continue on the post from yesterday.

I had given you a series of websites to go to as a starting point to start drawing your own conclusions.

I have had an intellectual love affair with Alice Waters (http://www.chezpanisse.com/pgalice.html ) since I first learned about her about two and a half years ago. Not a Chef, in her own words, merely a lover of food. Her entire food philosophy changed when she had a great experience in France as a young woman. Of course the world was changing then and she, to her credit, saw what was happening. She started Chez Panisse and in so doing started a food revolution that first touched Southern California and now, literally, is absolutely global. It is because of her, at least in part, that the White House for the first time has a garden on its grounds, from which, world class Chefs, can draw upon its resources for dinners for the Obamas and for state dinners. I wrote a post on this when it first happened because for me it represented an ideological and philosophical symbol which would trickle down to the rest of the country and possibly the world. A symbol just as powerful as the Victory Gardens (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victory_garden ) which ended up providing 40%, FORTY PERCENT, of the countries produce needs. It was also practiced in Canada, the United Kingdom and Germany. May I also remind you that this was only 64 years ago.

I bring this up because it illustrates what can be done in times of need. When there is a will there is a way. What has happened to us that we have lost sight on the basic needs of everyone. Is it comfort? Contempt? Greed? Collusion? These aren’t rhetorical. I really don’t know. I do know that profit, as outlined in my previous post on the subject, plays a huge role in the decisions that are being made with regard to food policy. Moreover I am acutely aware of the fact that those decisions are the gap between me eating and someone in Africa dying from malnutrition.

These, as I see them, are the irrefutable facts; there is enough food in the world. That food is being distributed in an inequitable fashion. There is a better way. We all need to act now or our kids kids will not be able to eat the very basic food stuffs that we take for granted today.

Some of you may brand me as a socialist. Maybe even a communist. My answer to that is that I live in one of the greatest socialist countries in the world. Our social system is one which still, despite endless cuts and slashes, is the envy of the world. Why is it that we can not ensure that not only all of our population eats, and I don’t mean Big Macs, let alone contribute to the well being, in a nutritional sense of those places in the world that are incapable of supplying their own needs, be it through greed, famine, collusion or whatever.

There exists a social responsibility, not nearly the same as the one which was outlined in the United Nation Declaration, which both demands and commands that we, as citizens, do our utmost to stand up when we see tyranny. Whether it is in a fascist country or in food policy. And what we are witnessing now is the tyranny of one class over another. That being the industrialized world or the less than developed world. Sure they can plant plantations and contribute to our food supply, but how many of them get to eat?

Basically, and I do find this emotionally taxing and physically draining, what I am saying is that yes we need to look at Urban Farming as an impending reality. We need to accept that current food policy can not be maintained NOR SHOULD IT BE. The World Food Program is ineffectual because of greed, theft and collusion. The supposed loans of the IMF and the World Bank which are in theory supposed to be positive and transforming are in fact negative and the beginning of a system of debt that can never be gotten out from under.

Please, examine the websites that I suggested yesterday. Please educate yourself as to where your food comes from. Ontario grows massive amounts of food. Canada grows massive amounts of food and has an abundant supply of fresh water that is being siphoned off by the Americans. All legally and with the tacit approval of the Canadian government. If you think I’m lying I entreat you to prove me wrong. But you won’t. For it is true.

I think rather than my illustrating this point any further I would rather you take a step for yourself and start to explore the realities of what is on your plate.

Find out where it comes from. How it gets there. Who gets it there and why. I think that the answers to these questions will open up your mind.

A good place to start your investigation into the impending food crisis, as I have mentioned before is Jeffrey Sachs. This article is pretty good, http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1734834,00.html . You may also want to read; http://www.larouchepub.com/other/1995/2249_import_dependency.html .

Draw your own conclusions and then for the love of your grandchildren ACT!

Jeffrey Sachs recently said; "It's the worst crisis of its kind in more than 30 years. It’s a big deal and it’s obviously threatening a lot of governments. There are a number of governments on the ropes, and I think there’s more political fallout to come.”
What are you going to do?

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Urban Farming (file under possible solutions but…)

In the past few weeks I have heard more and more about urban farming. It first came to my knowledge about a year ago. It had been presented to me as a means of solving the impending food crisis. At first I thought it was a great idea. But I also realize that it is a band aid solution to a gaping bullet wound. But that does not mean that we should not explore it as a means of at the very least aiding the problem.

I have gone to many sites on the issue such as;

http://www.urbanfarming.org/
http://www.cityfarmer.info/
http://www.urbanagriculture-news.com/
http://www.dott07.com/go/urbanfarming
http://urbanfarm.org/index2.html

This is by no means an exhaustive list. But it represents some of the sites that I have gone to for information on the subject. As I may or may not have explained before ‘truth’ which is elusive can only be arrived at by consulting as many sources as possible on the subject and then drawing your own conclusion.

The basic problem is this how do we allow sustainable growth and still enable vast populations to eat. The urban farming of the future that I have seen is presented as this;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Scs2SIeIkkM which is a short news snippet from The Discovery Channel. Again, this is a possible solution but is it the right one. You see the problem is so vast and complex that there may be a million solutions. By problem with this solution is that it does nothing to address the real problem; wanton waste, manufactured scarcity as well as hunger and famine elsewhere in the world. The point of the story is how doe we keep cities fed as we continue to grow and expand our cities. To my point of view this does nothing to address any of the very real issues that I touched on in my previous post about food policy. Does that mean that it should not be explored? Absolutely not.

If you go through the Urban Farming Organization website you will quickly realize that they are very interested in ensuring that the poor and needy get food. This is a beautiful project and I support it whole heartily. If you go to http://www.urbanfarming.org/presentation.htm you will see that they have opened approximately 500 gardens in less than four years. Their goal, stated, is to eradicate hunger worldwide. BEAUTIFUL. But again, you watch it and draw your own conclusions. What makes it so beautiful is the coming together of people to help others. And it is something that WE ALL CAN DO!

Many times (at least a few) I have mentioned that my Mother, giving up lots, chose to move to Africa, in Malawi to provide much needed medical services to people that would otherwise not get any medical services. I commend her for what she and my Stepfather are doing. It touches my heart and soul in so many beautiful ways that sometimes I break down.

When I decided to become a Chef, I knew that I too would have a mission. Not only one which saw me feed people in my restaurant but also people from all over the world. I believe that food and water are BASIC HUMAN RIGHTS and need to be guaranteed. Right now they are not. They are used as weapons. Against people that would literally start a fight to eat even one one hundredth of what we do. My goal is to create an environment which enables me to provide food, food knowledge, food product and service to people all over. Starting of course in my own back yard and then extending that to a much wider, READ GLOBAL, community.

I am going to write more on this subject tomorrow. Unfortunately, I am tired and I need to get my rest so I can continue. Sorry to cut the post short but I feel like I am going to fall flat on my face.

Food for thought? I think so. I will continue this post tomorrow. In the mean time, consider what I am writing about. Ask yourself, what can I do? How can I help? Believe me, it is a lot easier than you think. But it takes all of us, one at a time, to solve this very real issue.

Article 25, Subsection 1 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights states;

“Everyone has the right to a standard of living adequate for the health and well-being of himself and of his family, including food, clothing, housing and medical care and necessary social services, and the right to security in the event of unemployment, sickness, disability, widowhood, old age or other lack of livelihood in circumstances beyond his control.”

It is not merely enough to state that people have these rights.

Thomas Jefferson once wrote; “The care of human life and happiness, and not their destruction, is the first and only object of good government.” 200 years on and we still aren’t getting it right.

Are you dreaming big and inspired? Those dreams and inspiration MAY be the answer that we need.

A la prochaine

SDM

Mentoring a Newbie (file under Paying it Forward)

I know I know I said the next post would be about Urban Farming but I am so excited after the conversation I had with the young man I am mentoring that I wanted to write this post first. SO THERE!

I don’t know who said it but I have always believed it to be true; “Mentor: Someone whose hindsight can become your foresight.” I believe this to be true and consider it to be a great honour to mentor someone in my chosen field. It makes me feel amazing and all I am doing is helping someone else realize his or her dreams. I would like to send a big THANK YOU to L for thinking of me and pointing this young man in my direction.

This young man is 19 years old. Completed high school. Has some experience in the culinary field having worked for Swiss Chalet and The Outback. At the Outback he was a dishwasher and prep helper while at Swiss Chalet he was a “line cook.” He was at the Outback for about a year and Swiss Chalet for about two.

From our almost hour long conversation I was able to glean that he became interested in cooking while he was in high school where he took some classes related to cooking. He told me that it was mostly home style or family type cooking but that he really enjoyed it. I asked what his favourite dish that he learned was while he was there and without hesitating he said that it was a Parmesan Chicken. This gave me at least some insight into where he was coming from and actually made me feel pretty good because he didn’t hesitate and that I was able to find that he had some experience.

Naturally he was chalk full of questions. In my words he asked about the length of apprenticeship, how many hours he would have to work, whether he could expect to work on holidays, how long the training is and then he asked a lot of questions about how to start up your own restaurant with out actually saying that he would like to.

I explained to him that the Apprenticeship for Cooks (as far as I know) would amount to around 3000 hours. I also explained that because he had some experience at Swiss Chalet that those hours may count toward his apprenticeship which made him feel pretty good. I explained to him that during my apprenticeship I worked no less than ten hours a day and sometimes as many as seventeen or eighteen. I told him that I didn’t believe that that would be the case for everyone but that was my experience. He didn’t seem phased by the hour commitment which was a good sign to me because as this blog has demonstrated time and time again – it takes a different kind of person to work in a kitchen.

He asked about holidays and I explained to him that the kitchen doesn’t know what a holiday is. People are always going to need to eat and holidays are no exception. He then asked how you go about getting into a professional kitchen. I explained that there are several ways and that when I am a little more comfortable with him I would be happy to help him by not only pointing him in the right direction but by helping him find a good place to help him get to where he wants to go.

He asked a lot of questions about starting a restaurant. Which I was only too happy to answer. He asked about where to build a restaurant, how the interior is done, how you go about staffing it, etc. I explained that there are lots of things that you need to consider when opening a restaurant. The location, the demographics, the type of food you want to serve, what you want it to look and feel like, etc. I told him that when the time comes I would be happy to share my knowledge on the subject as well as all the books that I have read to date on the subject. He got genuinely excited that I was willing to share all this knowledge.

From what I can gather he really would like to own a restaurant but, like me, knows that he needs to get the right experiences first. I explained a bit about me and how I arrived in the culinary industry. How the industry chooses you and not the other way around ( Thanks Director of Operations… you know who you are.).

I asked him what made him want to be in this industry and he told me that eh has watched a lot of cooking shows. I explained right then that television glamorizes the industry and that the realities are not anything like what you see on television. He had mentioned Hells Kitchen (which I also watch) and again I asked him to make sure that he did not think that was ‘reality.’ He assured me that he knew that it was much different than how it is portrayed on television. I sighed a huge sigh of relief.

So as it stands now I have instructed him to go out and buy Anthony Bourdain’s ‘Kitchen Confidential.’ I explained to him that Bourdain is a no muss no fuss representation of what the cooking world is really like. The ups, the down and the in betweens. I also did this to see just how serious he is. By making him take an action and then having a conversation with me about it I will be able to tell a lot about him. I then told him that after we had met and discussed Bourdain that I would be happy, one book at a time, to loan him books from my extensive collection. That excited him. AND MYSELF AS WELL!

On Monday next I will give him a call again and set up a time to meet him. I’ll have a list of questions and I am certain so too will he. So again, L, thank you, for letting me share with someone else who seems genuinely interested and interesting. I promise I won’t let you or him down.

John Quincy Adams once wrote; “If your actions inspire others to dream more, learn more, do more and become more, you are a leader.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

My Work Speaks For Itself (file under the Saga Continues…)

First off I would like to apologize that I have not posted in the last few days. Needless to say I’m sure you all figured that there was a reason as I am generally quite good about keeping current. Not only have I had a lot on my mind but have also had a couple issues which scared the bejesus out of me. I would like to report though that everyone is okay and so too am I. So here I am again happy to be writing.

I’d also like to say that I am extremely happy with my last post. Many of you may not know but I have written for along time. All kinds of things, poetry, movies, books and plays. What you may not know however (although I have mentioned here once or twice) is that I am a stream of consciousness writer. And yes that even applies to things that I am writing such as the last post. In fact that post took me about two and a half hours to write. But the real reason that I am so pleased with the last post is that I broke my highest readership number with that post. Why that pleases me is because it means that those people might start having an interest in food policy. Moreover, it gives a starting point from which to educate yourselves on the subject. I know that as time goes on I will write many more posts on the subject. In fact my next post is going to be on Urban Farming. But more on that later.

As the title of this post would suggest I am still having issues with the work ethic of some of those at work. Naturally as I have gotten comfortable in my position I have begun to see the little things that people do or don’t do that bothers me. I routinely arrive at work at between 6 and 6:10 am. I do my setup as you all well know by now and then start banging off the specials and any other prep work that needs to get done to make sure that the day runs smoothly. Of course because there are only two shifts in our kitchen a lot of prep gets done by my morning comrade and myself. However, as I have mentioned before, I believe and can demonstrate that we are being abused in the prep work that we are having to do because of what I perceive as a lacksidaisical attitude toward their position and at the very least a work ethic which leaves much to be desired. And to me it makes no sense because this kitchen is like Nirvana, Shangri La, Heaven, Paradise or El Dorado.

What I’ve come to realize is that my work speaks for itself. It truly does. I don’t just show up and go through the motions. I work and I continue to work until the work is either done or it is time for me to go home. Sure I take a couple of smoke breaks but beyond that I work. And I do so because I love what I do. I love the environment. I love the job. So I’ve become resolute with myself, that all I need to do, is to continue demonstrating my work ethic each and every day because… My Work Speaks for Itself.

In advance of tomorrow I made a sun dried tomato pesto for a tortellini special. I also made a red pepper sauce which I am going to use for a Mediterranean pizza.

Also exciting is the fact that we rolled out our new menu on Thursday. The summer menu means that we need to relearn and quickly an entirely new and varied menu. Items on this menu include Veal Scaloppini, Pan Seared Mackerel, Ahi Tuna, Tournedos (Filet Mignon) and a couple of new pasta dishes. I’ve already had to make everything on the menu and was surprised with the ease that I was able to learn and execute the new dishes. It is really only the second time that I have done a complete menu change and the first time that it was required of me to be able to cook everything that was on it. It feels pretty good. We change the menu there about four times a year so I look forward to always learning and expanding my own repertoire as a result.

Also exciting is the fact that I start on the outdoor grill on Friday. The only thing I don’t like about it is that my hours go from morning to evening. But I guess you can’t have all the things you want all at the same time. So I will stop doing the mornings on Tuesday and then I have two days to do some research and get ready for the summer. I am excited to see what is to come. To spend the summer by the lake watching as the boats go by, pleasing my customers and putting everything I have learned thus far to the test. And ultimately… MY WORK SPEAKS FOR ITSELF.

I also was in touch with the young man that L put me in touch with. In fact I am about to call him so I will probably be able to post an update after my Urban farming post.

There is an old Asian Proverb which states; “ He that will not reflect is a ruined man.”

Are you dreaming bug and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM

Population, Food, Development, Scarcity and Policy (file under WAKE UP)

I have touched on this subject only once or twice before as I have an inner battle which rages between keeping this blog only as a means of relating my experience as it related to cooking. I have been thinking about this post for quite sometime and am thrilled that I finally have the time to write it.

Thomas Robert Malthus was a brilliant scholar (British) who produced incredible works on population and political economy. He spent a massive amount of time dedicated to understanding the problem he recognized probably two centuries before it was to become a massively important issue. His seminal work is called “The Principle of Population.”

In Principle he presents two very important theories which can be summarized as;

1) Population grows at an exponential rate while food production grows only arithmetically. (This has been untrue in the modern world because of advances in science and technology but ultimately will prove true in the coming decades.) Any shift in that balance between the two will illustrate that the power of the first is MUCH greater than the second.

2) In all societies there is a drive for population increase. This causes (my words not his) a class struggle which subjugates the lower classes and will never allow for a correction in standard of living for those lower classes.

He quite correctly in my opinion suggests that; “The power of population is so superior to the power of the earth to produce subsistence for man, that premature death must in some shape or other visit the human race. The vices of mankind are active and able ministers of depopulation. They are the precursors in the great army of destruction, and often finish the dreadful work themselves. But should they fail in this war of extermination, sickly seasons, epidemics, pestilence, and plague advance in terrific array, and sweep off their thousands and tens of thousands. Should success be still incomplete, gigantic inevitable famine stalks in the rear, and with one mighty blow levels the population with the food of the world.”

I have long suggested that Malthusian theory was now obsolete as we had surpassed the ability of the earth through technology and science to produce food exponentially in relation to population growth. As I have worked in the food industry I have read countless volumes (which by their very existence) suggest that this is untenable. That eventually technology will no longer be able to keep pace with the population explosion and that such being true will lead to the inevitability of class struggle, food shortage, famine and ultimately the death of tens of millions if not hundreds of millions of people. Moreover that our current policies do nothing to address the core problems.

Since the end of World War Two we have lived in a time of great peace and prosperity. Naturally there has been armed conflict but it has been limited to specific region and hot zones and has not become a global conflict. War, Malthus argued, was a positive influence on keeping population in check. Along with famine and people getting married later which lowers populations advance as the window for child rearing lessens. (again this is proving untrue as fertility drugs and treatments have shown us that grandmothers can have children… DANGER DANGER WILL ROBINSON). Populations’ necessity to stay in check as an important precursor to sustainability is being largely dismissed until very recently.

Now the question must be answered. How have we been able to stave off Malthusian theory from being correct until now? Well as alluded to above, since World War Two we have seen a great leap forward. In terms of population at the end of the war the earth stood at approximately 2 billion. Depending on the source the total war dead was anywhere from 55 million to 70 million which represented a decrease in world population of approximately 2.7 to 3%. However since the end of World War Two the population has exploded to approximately 7,000,000,000 today. A 300% increase.

We have been able to stave off Malthusian Theory through the ever increasing use of genetically modified food since 1990. I have written a much shorter post on this in the past. Genetically Modified Food or GM Food is food stuffs which have had their DNA changed by scientists through genetic engineering. This is troubling for two reasons; one is profit. There is a huge amount of profit to be made from the control of genetic engineering of food and the corporations that control the supply chain related to GM seeds will do anything to protect their value. Secondly it is alarming because as I touched on in the previous post I wrote on the subject, natural selection has fallen prey to GM Foods and has seen an extremely diverse food supply become increasingly homogenized. This homogenization has been largely left unstudied in terms of its impact on the food supply and the possibility of various forms of pests evolving to best our scientific achievement. These are very serious issues.

One such case I used was the case of the tomato Florida 47. There is a similar tomato which comes from California which is escaping my mind right now. However, these two tomatoes account for a ridiculous amount of the market in North America, somewhere in the neighborhood of 80%. 80% from two varietals that have been selectively modified and engineered not to deliver the most nutrients as the original fruit did but instead so that they are uniform, able to travel long distances, be red, plump and juicy. How do they achieve this? Through the modification of certain DNA parts of the plant which results in a lower amount of water, vitamins and nutrients and a devastating increase in the amount of SODIUM among other things. When you go to a supermarket to buy your tomatoes next time, look at them, feel them, smell them. I am sure that you will notice that smell is largely gone, they do not feel as tomatoes should and are instead as hard as tennis balls and they are all big and red. Then ask yourself; is this what a tomato is supposed to look like?

The same is happening all over the industrialized world. This is being done without much alarm, so that Food Production can keep up with Population explosion. EXACTLY WHAT MALTHUS WARNED ABOUT 200 YEARS AGO!

It is not restricted to Tomatoes either. Some of the most common food stuffs we eat are now genetically modified, including; Soybeans, Rice, Sugar Cane, Papaya, Cotton, Corn, Potatoes and Rapeseed. IN NO WAY IS THIS LIST EXHAUSTIVE MERELY ILLUSTRATIVE. Moreover is the current trend of farmers to switch to corn production as a means of producing ethanol. Foolish!

So what you say? Why does this matter? Well the problem with GM foods is that they are largely grown in areas that the environment is not meant to support them. As such it is necessary to transport massive amounts of water (another alarming and important issue which I will touch on after) and massive inputs must go in to the soil in order to sustain farms. I will elaborate presently.

GM Foods are expanding their reach at an alarming rate. Its influence on our daily meals has expanded by as much as 50 times (50 x) in a ten year period. And don’t think for a minute that this is happening in someone else’s backyard. It is our problem too. Canada for instance as of the latest statistics produces about 94% of its crops by time proven conventional methods. But that means that 6% is grown using GM seeds and methods.

In order to use GM seeds you must of course purchase the seeds from any one of a few massive multinationals that operate outside of the bounds of law. Though recognized as legal entities they largely operate with impunity. Such companies include; Monsanto and Bayer Cropscience just to name a couple. There are many, many companies which have at their core GM or GE (genetically engineered foods).

These companies, as mentioned above, largely operate outside of the law. While there have been numerous rulings and conventions with regard to GM or GE foods most of them favour the large multinationals and thus represent and clear and present danger to the food supply.

The practices of these companies is predatory and can be witnessed by Monsanto’s purchase of Delta & Pine Land company largely to gain access to what the company called its “Terminator Seed.” The purpose of which was to produce a plant which is seedless so that the cycle of production is entirely dependant on those select companies which own the seed. As if this were not predatory enough, in order to grow GM crops in places that were never meant to grow those crops, it is necessary to put massive amounts of fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides which poison the soil and erode the soils ability to grow anything let alone GM crops.

For years, millennia in fact, it has been known as standard farming practice, that you had to rotate the crops, in order to maintain the quality of the soil. Those days no longer exist as massive industrial farms have taken over from the independent family farms. Which incidentally are suffering because of the inputs that they must buy in order to grow the crops which do not as promised, have greater yield or are less prone to disease. This millennia long practice going to the wayside has seen massive industrial farms set up in places such as Africa or South America in order to keep up with the ever increasing food demands.

Another (often not discussed) impact of our ever increasing use of GM or GE foods is that the inputs which are being used to grow these crops are now having a negative impact on water, causing both shortages and a poising of our water table as the fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides due to the increased amount of water to grow the crops eventually leaches into our water system. What is the impact of that decision for our species in 50 years?

Evolution has enabled us over long periods of time to deal with certain changes to climate, etc. One thing I am not certain that evolution can or will be able to do is to deal with increased toxins in our food while nutrients are being selectively and purposefully for profit removed from our food supply.

Make no mistake about it. I am not Chicken Little. BUT THE SKY IS FALLING! Malthusian theory through human ingenuity has been sidelined up until now. However, I believe, strongly, that the next fifty years are going to see massive food shortages which result from inadequate and ill informed food policy today. That these shortages are going to lead to a break down of those things that we consider civilization forming. And that the erosion of those forces of civilization are going to lead to untold strife. And yet countries pour billions into machines of death… does that make sense?

Our food supply chain in the oceans and rivers of the world is also unsustainable. As a result we are seeing large fish farms created with little to no study on the environmental and species impact. Extremely dangerous. As a species we are so greedy that we are eating ourselves to death, in fact to extinction and yet when is the last time you heard a World Leader, Obama, Harper, Sarkozy or anyone for that matter utter a single sentence on the coming shortage and crisis. There is a lack of true leadership at the levels that there has to be in order for our children to eat. This is not an issue which can be avoided. It is going to become reality. Sure we may be able to stave it off for a while but AT WHAT COST!

In the industrialized countries we have manufactured scarcity in order to inflate prices and thus stabilize profit centres. In Canada alone we destroy enough grain to feed the worlds hungry every year merely to protect profitability. Sure the powers that be will tell you that it is not fit for human consumption but do you really think that is the case? The same is true of other industrialized powers, the United States as well as the European Union. We also rely heavily on the World Bank and the IMF to create policies and funds which will help the problem. Unfortunately history proves that they are not concerned with the problem. Look at the conditions of loans in developing and under developed countries. The conditions create a consistent debtor country which has no means to get out of debt. When are we going to stop focusing on profit and start focusing on our species survival? A short reading of the history of Africa and Latin America bears witness to the previous statement.

Population has risen largely unchecked since the end of World War Two. The emergence of China and India as powerhouses in the next twenty years (best case scenario, worse is in the next five to seven) is going to strain the ability of the earth to produce even the most basic food stuffs for survival. Ultimately, I believe the answer we are going to be provided is a pill of some kind. My question is this; Where is the leadership on this issue? Where are the people raising the alarms about our imminent demise (in earth’s timeline sense)? Where are the people in power protecting us?

So where does this leave us. What can we do? First is buy local from local farmers. There is no shortage of Farmers Markets all over the industrialized world. In Ontario we have access to a seemingly endless supply of fresh foods, vegetables and fruits, game, etc. Buy local. Support your farmers.

Of course there is a big move to organic foods right now. But again I caution that organic foods have taken on the same life as GM or GE foods but in the opposite. Organic is largely unregulated and has a smattering of regulations from various bodies but nothing that is consistent or global let alone national in nature. This is not an attack on organic as I believe that it is a great movement. It is merely an acknowledgement that anything left largely unregulated ends up becoming less than the original idea and can be destructive.

We need to move away from industrial farms which are poisoning us. We need to demand, TRULY DEMAND action from our leaders today. For if the world continues on the same trend as the past sixty years we are headed to a world of 15 Billion people soon with little to no plan to feed that population or provide it with clean drinking water. Our current system is pushing us ever closer to the brink of destruction and NOONE IS PAYING ATTENTION.

Malthus was and is right. He was just off by a few years. There are countless articles, scholarly and opinionated on the matters discussed in this post. Find them. Figure out what you can do to make yourself healthier and in turn providing support, much needed, for the survival of our children. We can make a difference one person at a time. But we need to act now.

Adam Smith (you should also read Wealth of Nations) once wrote; “Such is the delicacy of man alone, that no object is produced to his liking. He finds that in everything there is need for improvement.... The whole industry of human life is employed not in procuring the supply of our three humble necessities, food, clothes and lodging, but in procuring the conveniences of it according to the nicety and delicacy of our tastes.”

Norman Borlaug once said; “Civilization as it is known today could not have evolved, nor can it survive, without an adequate food supply.”

Jeffrey Sachs in Scientific American wrote; “The recent surge in world food prices is already creating havoc in poor countries, and worse is to come. Food riots are spreading across Africa, though many are unreported in the international press. Moreover, the surge in wheat, maize and rice prices seen on commodities markets have not yet fully percolated into the shops and stalls of the poor countries or the budgets of relief organizations. Nor has the budget crunch facing relief organizations such as the World Food Program, which must buy food in world markets, been fully felt. The results could be calamitous unless offsetting policy actions are taken rapidly.

The facts are stark. A metric ton of wheat cost around $375 on the commodity exchanges in early 2006. In March 2008, it stood at over $900. Maize has gone from around $250 to $560 in the same period. Rice prices have also soared. The physical inventories of grain relative to demand are also down sharply in recent years.”

Oxfam has also started publicly crying out about the shortages that are coming;

"World leaders have a window of opportunity to prevent a worse situation resulting from the triple crunch of the economic crisis, climate change, and energy and water scarcity," Oxfam agricultural policy expert Carlos Galian said in a statement.

"Failure to act will see millions more people falling into hunger," he added.”

I am hopeful that something will be done in the coming months and years which can stave off our own destruction. We all have a part to play. Are you going to play yours?

Einstein was right when he said; “Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow.”

Are you dreaming big and inspired?

A la prochaine

SDM